Another Frantz filter change.:) 3000 miles

Joined
Apr 16, 2015
Messages
737
Location
Kelowna, BC, Canada
Scott 1000 roll sure gets compressed, probably the 100 psi oil pressures in the mornings. Replaced with a Kirkland roll.


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New one looks like 3 ply and the old one is 2 ply. Good upgrade.
Scott 1000's are single ply and the kirkland are 2 ply, I use a mix of the two as they are 35-50 cents a roll. The Frantz filter I use is a 1960's model I bought 10 years ago and upgraded the center cones with 1.6" stainless inserts. The new Frantz filters are no better, just take money from your wallet.:)
 
What are you showing in the first picture, not getting what’s going on with the element shrinking down like that. I thought the Scotts one ply were tightly wound and stiff, maybe now they are not.
Is there a full flow on the engine as well?
 
How many Km's do you put on the TP filter before you change it out? Does it break down?
 
What are you showing in the first picture, not getting what’s going on with the element shrinking down like that. I thought the Scotts one ply were tightly wound and stiff, maybe now they are not.
Is there a full flow on the engine as well?
The first picture is just a picture of a Scott's 1000 after 3000 miles. The shrinking is just what happens after continued use and compresses the roll after time. I pack the rolls as tight as I possibly can and can't pull them out after I'm done installing them. 3000 miles later and this is what you see.:) The Kirkland rolls are a little better as they start out at 4.5" and shrink down the about 3-3.5". Yes the engine has a full flow as well.
 
How many Km's do you put on the TP filter before you change it out? Does it break down?
I find 5000 kms is about the time to change it out. It really depends on the engine and how clean it runs. No it never breaks down, I also run a Frantz as a fuel filter and a MotorGuard M100 as a trans filter. I change the fuel filter every 20,000 kms or when it plugs and the trans every 30,000 kms.
 
100 psi seems to be overkill on pressure, Kleenoil, Filtakleen, Triple R all recommend 65 psi max running pressure, I would wonder if particles are being forced through the roll with that excessive pressure,
 
I now see a reason why they may have put the restrictor on the input side in the newer Frantz's, George Walkers version that is now LSI's and the Refiner, 100 psi at start up puts somewhere around 1200 lbs. of downward pressure on the element, that's over a half ton of pressure! It wants to push the paper right through the end of the housing! 😮
 
That's the cold oil pressure in winter with 40W oil, once warm the oil pressure is 40-50 PSI.:) Detroit 4-53T.:)
My 85 Ranger 2.3 4D55 on a cold winter start up would push the gauge needle to 125-130 psi, James at Jackmaster recommended a needle valve to bring cold start up pressures down, the same could be done with a restrictor orifice, but I like the infinite adjustability of a needle valve.
 
My 85 Ranger 2.3 4D55 on a cold winter start up would push the gauge needle to 125-130 psi, James at Jackmaster recommended a needle valve to bring cold start up pressures down, the same could be done with a restrictor orifice, but I like the infinite adjustability of a needle valve.
You've got one of my favorate trucks, I love the ranger with the diesel.:) I'm not worried about the oil pressure, haven't had any leaks. I run Kirkland brand rolls for the most part and they don't compress as much.:)
 
You've got one of my favorate trucks, I love the ranger with the diesel.:) I'm not worried about the oil pressure, haven't had any leaks. I run Kirkland brand rolls for the most part and they don't compress as much.:)
That is James though, he is a lot like Ralph was, he doesn't want the customer to have leaks, even the possibility of a small leak over time, no leaks ever! James likes to shoot for a minimum 1/2 litre to 1 litre per minute and more than 1 litre for larger engines, Ralph goes for the slower the flow the better the cleaning, he is running a Jackmaster now, drilled out the return restrictor and put a .025" orifice on the inlet, 3/4 of a quart per minute at hot idle, he figures that will slow down during winter, I guess Texas does have some sort of winter.
 
I miss those twin I beam little Rangers, don't see many around anymore, its that 4d55 that got me into this bypass hobby, the oil filters are now close to $40, combination full flow, bypass in one deals, was running Baldwin BD28's, so I found that Jackmaster made a conversion oil filter nipple to run a fl1-a, problem was he didn't ship this part overseas, so I bought one of his bypass filters, doh, before this I bought the George Walker Frantz for the 4d55, then it was just sitting there on the shelf, so I put it on my 2010 2.3 Ranger, then I bought 2 late 70's era nos Frantz's that went on my 72' mustang engine and trans, old school bypass filters for an old school car, bought a case of Camco 4 1/2 inch tall paper (not made anymore, it's now 4") and the center core was 1 1/2 inch??? What to do with 4.5" X 1.5" cored paper? Bought two nos M-100's for that paper!
So I have 3 Frantz, 1 Jackmaster, 2 Motor Guard M-100. :)
 
That is James though, he is a lot like Ralph was, he doesn't want the customer to have leaks, even the possibility of a small leak over time, no leaks ever! James likes to shoot for a minimum 1/2 litre to 1 litre per minute and more than 1 litre for larger engines, Ralph goes for the slower the flow the better the cleaning, he is running a Jackmaster now, drilled out the return restrictor and put a .025" orifice on the inlet, 3/4 of a quart per minute at hot idle, he figures that will slow down during winter, I guess Texas does have some sort of winter.
Correction, Ralph always assumed that his .025 wire welder tip was .025", he found his old measuring tools and those .025 welder tips turn out to be around .045" in diameter, .025 is the wire size that passes through the tip.
 
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