Anode Rod - the CONCLUSION

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Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I'd sure like to just be able to remove my anode. I have a $30 segmented rod (my heater is on a platform in the garage with the ceiling only a couple of feet above it.) sitting around that I bought five years ago. I've tried a long breaker bar which only shifted the whole heater and I've tried an electric impact wrench held on the nut until the socket started to heat up. I don't have air tools, but I think that's about what it will take to break mine loose.


Go to Home Depot and pick up a 3-4 foot section of iron pipe and put it on the end of your breaker bar. I had 8 water heaters, with 4 of them, it wouldn't move with the 18 inch breaker bar, same thing, it shifted the tank instead of breaking it loose. Once I put the iron pipe on, they did move, a couple of them with a loud crack noise. I also sprayed down the nut first with some Kroil. The tanks were older anyway so I was willing to take the risk that it might break, but they were all fine.


That is exactly what I did. I only succeeded in shifting the entire heater, which I then had to shift back into place. I've tried electric impact wrench, 2' long breaker bar plus 3' long steel pipe, penetrating oil, and a torch. I'm leaving it alone now!
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I'd sure like to just be able to remove my anode. I have a $30 segmented rod (my heater is on a platform in the garage with the ceiling only a couple of feet above it.) sitting around that I bought five years ago. I've tried a long breaker bar which only shifted the whole heater and I've tried an electric impact wrench held on the nut until the socket started to heat up. I don't have air tools, but I think that's about what it will take to break mine loose.


Go to Home Depot and pick up a 3-4 foot section of iron pipe and put it on the end of your breaker bar. I had 8 water heaters, with 4 of them, it wouldn't move with the 18 inch breaker bar, same thing, it shifted the tank instead of breaking it loose. Once I put the iron pipe on, they did move, a couple of them with a loud crack noise. I also sprayed down the nut first with some Kroil. The tanks were older anyway so I was willing to take the risk that it might break, but they were all fine.


That is exactly what I did. I only succeeded in shifting the entire heater, which I then had to shift back into place. I've tried electric impact wrench, 2' long breaker bar plus 3' long steel pipe, penetrating oil, and a torch. I'm leaving it alone now!


Sounds like you might need to go with a 5' section of pipe. At least hit it with PB Blaster or Kroil. I had a couple people help me so it was 3 of us, one held the tank and the other two held the pipe/breaker bar and then it popped. Use a 6 point socket. I think ours was a 4' iron pipe.
 
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