AMSOIL - Tundra diff and Lancer 5-speed tranny

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Good evening all,

The other week I posted a question about AMSOIL Severe Gear versus Long Life gear. I ordered the Severe Gear and put it into my 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7L CrewMax this afternoon. Truck has 6,500 miles on it and the old oil was grey and smelled pretty bad. Drain plug had about 1/4" of sludgy yuck on it. I couldn't get over the color and smell of the oil that was in there with only 6,500 miles on it. I'm glad I changed it, even though I was accused of wasting money on another forum. ($40 for syn oil for a $32k truck hardly seems like a waste of money) Toyota calls for a 75W-85 oil for the diff while the AMSOIL is a 75W-90 - should be interesting to see what happens to my fuel mileage with the thicker 75W-90 fluid in there.

I also did a transmission oil change on my wife's 2002 Mitsu Lancer with the 5-speed. Ever since it was new (it now has 70k or so on it) it's been hard to shift when the temps dip below about 15 deg F. I've been wanting to change it out for something synthetic for some time. I choose AMSOIL MTG, it's GL4 as Mitsu calls for and is the right weight. Old oil was slightly dirty, but shockingly clean for 70k miles. I saw more yuck in the gear oil of my 1994 Ford Probe when I went to syn on it at 35k miles. After filling with MTG, I took it for a quick test drive and I can shift the car with two fingers now. I'm very pleased. The true test will be when it gets cold here come winter.

thanks much,
ben
 
Beware of the internet experts.Those are the ones that think they know. The difference in viscosity is not enough to notice a difference in mpg.
 
I might even listen to the argument about syn vs. conventional in the crankcase...especially for short runs. But for gear boxes, AT's, diffs....the couple bucks saved by not using quality synthetics just don't add up in my book. No place in the USA doesn't have one extreme temp or another, or both...OK maybe where I live
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...but synthetic lubes have such a better natural viscosity index, it's got to be easier on the vehicle.
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I bought a little Suzuki Swift with about 170K on it. I change the transmission lube over to Amsoil MTG GL-4 and it has worked perfectly during the last Winter also to this date with 187K. I changed out my two Yamaha ATV's rear ends with 250miles new to Amsoil 80-90 and also was amazed with the glitter of metal from break in wear. As many say, money spent on a well formulated oil is money well spent.
 
I've got to agree Pablo - I'll even go so far to say that conventional engine oil would probably serve me as well as synthetic does. Yet, if synthetic engine makes me feel better, and it does, doesn't that make it worthwhile? With a tank of gas being $50 plus, the cost of synthetics is negligible.

Yet, as you say, everything else is a different story. It's in there longer, doesn't have more than a mediocre filter if any, and doesn't get changed as often.

I'll also note that synthetic greases are well worth the extra cost as well for the same reasons...

later,
b
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I wouldn't use anything but synthetics no matter what the application...unless it was free.




My feelings also, except I would not take if it were free or even if you paid me.

It bothers me to drive my 2008 GMC with the oem lubes in it. At 1,800 miles I already have the 0w30 Amsoil in the engine. The axles and the trans are next, hopefully this week or next if I have time.
 
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I wouldn't use anything but synthetics no matter what the application...unless it was free.




My feelings also, except I would not take if it were free or even if you paid me.

It bothers me to drive my 2008 GMC with the oem lubes in it. At 1,800 miles I already have the 0w30 Amsoil in the engine. The axles and the trans are next, hopefully this week or next if I have time.




I get free oil for my Yamaha R1 from where I work, its the Yamaha Lube stuff.
 
Good evening all!

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...should be interesting to see what happens to my fuel mileage with the thicker 75W-90 fluid in there.




A quick update on my fuel economy with the 75W-90 AMSOil Severe Gear in the truck. I drive about 50 miles round trip each day to work (same roads, same pattern, a good portion on a military installation where I carefully control my speed) and my truck's fuel economy gauge has consistently shown about 18.6 MPG for several tanks before the gear oil change.

After changing to Severe Gear, I'm now showing 19.3 MPG. Looks like it hasn't hurt my fuel mileage at all.

Note that I won't say it's helped, as a 4% increase could simply be because it is a little cooler and I'm not running the A/C as hard. We'll see if I continue to see the increase, but for sure, it's not decreased fuel mileage.

thanks much,
ben
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I would say getting the dirty oil out and good oil in is great and that the truck is broken it. Is your truck an auto or stick? I would change the oil if it was a stick and think about it if it is an auto.
 
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Toyota is a little strange with Tundra axle factory fill. L/S units get mineral 80W-90 and additive, while open units get 75W-140 syn, like Ford and GM axles do. L/S Toyotas will chatter with a changover to syn, at least without additive.
 
Almost ANY LSD will chatter if the fluid doesn't have an appropriate amount of LSD. Its not a Toyota issue. The issue is with consumers who don't know how to add any or enough additive.

Makes you wonder if the 140wt is to help protect the non-LSD diff a little better when spinning 1-tire on a slippery surface. With an LSD, the speed difference between the tires on a slippery surface is less.
 
GM does not use a limited slip axle in their trucks, the use an Eaton Mechanical Locker. Therefore it does not need an additive and the use of it can actually damage the axle over time. Only GM cars use limited slip differentials.


Code:

G80 Differential, heavy-duty automatic locking rear

1 - Included with (PCY) Work Truck/SL Trailering Package.

2 - Included with (PDL) Z71 Off-Road Package, (PDU) Power Pack

Plus or (NHT) Max Trailering Pack.

3 - Included with (PDL) Z71 Off-Road Package, (NHT) Max

Trailering Pack or (PCY) SLE/SLT Trailering Package.

 
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L/S Toyotas will chatter with a changover to syn, at least without additive.




Interesting! My '07 Tundra 5.7L has the "Auto LSD" option, but from what I've read, it's not a true-limited slip diff but uses the brakes to grab the slipping wheel to send power to the wheel with traction. It's part of the magical traction control system that keeps wheel spin to near zero and the truck going in a straight line with 381HP / 400FT-LBS...
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It's phenomenal. It's a real confidence builder; I've gotten sideways in my '97GT 'stang and it's not fun. But, I digress...

I have no chatter at all with Severe Gear and didn't add any friction modifier additive. I do recall that there is some already in Severe Gear?

ltr,
b
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PS: please forgive typos, typing with right hand, squirmy two year old son on left knee watching pingu on other monitor. Oh yeah, and he's telling me the red ferrari getting the wrecking ball below is a car!
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Auto-lsd is an open diff and doesn't require additive! Lots of electronic hobbits at work in that tundra. A-lsd, by applying brakes only as needed to control wheelspin, removes the 'throttle control' from the traction control system and allows you to power out of sticky situations.
The default and typical traction control will kill the throttle as well as applying brakes.
The issue with A-lsd is that you will eventually overpower and overheat the brakes which shuts it down causing the default traction control to assist by reducing engine power. Airlockers or normal clutch-LSD assisted by electronics would've been better. But, marketing statistics show that a majority of truck/suvs never see offroad situations. Throttle killing traction control, along with vehicle stability control, helps with poor driver skills and makes insurance companies happy.

I find that LSD-additive amounts in gear oils is usually not enough. I will assume that most people don't change their gear oil regularly. Since the LSD-diffs in most higher mileage vehicles are tired, not much additive is really needed.
With a new tight LSD, most fluids seem to need some additional amount of LSD additive. This is a problem with all those rumours about "can't use synthetic" 'ends. Enthusiatic owner decides to dump the OE fills with boutique gearoil early, assume that LSD safe fluid is good enough, experiences chatter, runs to dealer who refills diff with LSD-additized mineral gear oil, and spreads rumour that synthetic can't be used in the 'end, when a simply bottle of LSD-additive would've fixed it.
 
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