We're going to analyze it at 3K next time. It was 0W30 S2K the analysis was from. I appreciate all the input.
Amsoil S2K 2001 Ford 5.7L high copper
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I will. I don't know if he does that much of his own work, but I will definitely call him today and get with him next week. Thanks a bunch.
Medic,
You need to look at the whole picture ....
The Ford engine you cited had only 24k miles on it. These engines are known to leach silicone for the first 30k-40k miles - so that level was normal for that particular engine. This engine has 68k miles on it, so this level of silicon and sodium, along with the elevated wear metals, indicates a major air leak. Most of the dirt you ingest goes out the tailpipe and never gets past the rings. However, it does a great deal of damage as it works it's way through the intake system and into the combustion chambers.
Testing the oil after 3000 miles will result in a "cleaner" analysis, but unless you correct the root cause of this problem you will continue to see abnormal wear.
This problem isn't limited to one small area inside the engine - all the wear metals are elevated with the exception of Pb. I'd suggest doing a particle count analysis or ferrography to really see what's going on.
I'd also do a compression test ....
Ted
[ October 27, 2003, 01:11 AM: Message edited by: TooSlick ]
You need to look at the whole picture ....
The Ford engine you cited had only 24k miles on it. These engines are known to leach silicone for the first 30k-40k miles - so that level was normal for that particular engine. This engine has 68k miles on it, so this level of silicon and sodium, along with the elevated wear metals, indicates a major air leak. Most of the dirt you ingest goes out the tailpipe and never gets past the rings. However, it does a great deal of damage as it works it's way through the intake system and into the combustion chambers.
Testing the oil after 3000 miles will result in a "cleaner" analysis, but unless you correct the root cause of this problem you will continue to see abnormal wear.
This problem isn't limited to one small area inside the engine - all the wear metals are elevated with the exception of Pb. I'd suggest doing a particle count analysis or ferrography to really see what's going on.
I'd also do a compression test ....
Ted
[ October 27, 2003, 01:11 AM: Message edited by: TooSlick ]
Yes, he/we will also investigate for an air leak, the whole intake tract. Tragedy will ensue if this leak isn't uncovered quickly.
Back again to my post about a SHORT duration.
Anytime there shows any issues with HIgh wear in
MORE than one area, it is MY (IMHO) method to resort to short OCI until the problem is fixed.
IMO, it takes 500-1500 miles to have somewhat of a valid UOA.
We are going back to a shorter OCI. It looks like he may have kept the oil/filter in a looooong time- I have to verify. Surely he did not forget and run a filter 32K miles. Warranty ends at 36K, switched from XL-7500 to Series 2000 0W30, no more ordering/analysis activity until 68K miles. ***?
I think 0w30 is far too thin, if the car lives in Texas. I would use a minimum 15w40 in a climate like that. Others may disagree.
Dave
Dave
Dave,
The Amsoil 0w30 is a thicker, ACEA A3/B4 rated formulation - it is MUCH thicker than the 5w-20 petroleum oils many folks are running in these Triton V-8 engines. I have eight years of experience with this oil down here in Alabama and have never seen any issues with it being too thin. It's used to run qualifying laps in Winston Cup race engines and I'v also see folks using it to road race Japanese motorcycles.
Tooslick
Dixie Synthetics
The Amsoil 0w30 is a thicker, ACEA A3/B4 rated formulation - it is MUCH thicker than the 5w-20 petroleum oils many folks are running in these Triton V-8 engines. I have eight years of experience with this oil down here in Alabama and have never seen any issues with it being too thin. It's used to run qualifying laps in Winston Cup race engines and I'v also see folks using it to road race Japanese motorcycles.
Tooslick
Dixie Synthetics
Patman
Staff member
There is still a lot of misconceptions about 0w30 and 0w40 oils, where people think they are too thin for hot climates, when in fact you should not be taking the first number into consideration at all when you're trying to figure out if an oil is too thick or too thin for your climate. Remember, the first number only refers to the cold cranking abilities of the oil, so if you are running a 10w30 oil in a hot climate you could just as easily run a 0w30. You should be most concerned with the second number, and most specifically, it's viscosity at 100C.
In hot weather I'd rather run a 0w30 oil that is a thick 30wt, such as Amsoil 0w30, as opposed to a thin 10w30 like Mobil 1.
In hot weather I'd rather run a 0w30 oil that is a thick 30wt, such as Amsoil 0w30, as opposed to a thin 10w30 like Mobil 1.
I spoke with the owner in question today. He read the thread and said "maybe I DID go a long time without changing the oil or filter." AAAAAGHHHHH! Holy crap. Perhaps he needs a friendly reminder to change his oil.
Lance,
I'd switch him over to the regular Amsoil 5w30 and have him change the oil @ 15,000 miles/1 year, with a filter change @ 6 months. That will work better than trying to run the Series 2000 for 30,000 miles, especially in a hot, dusty climate.
Tooslick
I'd switch him over to the regular Amsoil 5w30 and have him change the oil @ 15,000 miles/1 year, with a filter change @ 6 months. That will work better than trying to run the Series 2000 for 30,000 miles, especially in a hot, dusty climate.
Tooslick
OT:quote:
Originally posted by DavoNF:
I think 0w30 is far too thin, if the car lives in Texas. I would use a minimum 15w40 in a climate like that. Others may disagree.
Dave
I think not. I ran Amsoil Series 2000 0w30 for 2 years in El Paso TX in my 1997 F150.
First oil change was 18 months and about 10,000 miles with no filter change. The oil was much better looking than the above analysis.
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