Amsoil Pre Oiler

[SargeGTO]

Not sure this is the correct place for this question.....
I am familiar with the AccuSump Pre Oiler ***Link Excised***
....they have a electronic sending unit for various ranges of oil pressure for activation.....I didn't see various pressure options for the Amsoil AMK-02 ***Link Excised***
....I suspect the Amsoil Pre Oiler is just for starts and does not discharge say in hard cornering or on sudden drop in oil pressure while running? Would this be accurate?

I have installed the AccuSump with a "T" on the back/top of LSX engines oil pressure switch.....I see the Amsoil also can fit to the remote bypass filter which raises my second question....does the Amsoil Pre Oiler force oil "up" into the engine back through the oil filter sandwich adapter and not "down" through the top of the engine via the oil pressure switch hole? I confuse easily

Admin Note: Remember, please no links to non-sponsor sales sites. I Realize this is an inadvertent "infraction."ekp

 

[Gary Allan]

The oil discharges where it gets its supply from. In either case the oil travels in both directions at the point of access. The oil pump will ultimately be harder to pump through than the passage ways of the engine.

Installation at the sender port does the same thing, except that it has to also make it past the ADBV (if it has one). The sender port is typically just past the filter on its way to the main gallery

 

[wcbcruzer]

When I was making a homemade pre-luber, I came across the same problem. I didn't like the idea of tapping into an oil pressure port because it would pump oil back through the oil filter; hence, pushing whatever junk accumulated in it back into the oil sump. My factory oil filters don't have an anti-drainback valve either. The best would be to get a sandwhich adapter and tap the pre-oiler into the inlet. That way no junk gets forced back out of the oil filter.

 

[Lonnie]

To hit the filter you've got to get past some tight fitting gears in that oil pump. You'll get some for sure but not enough to worry about. If it's the kind of device that stores up oil under pressure and discharges it on startup or sudden loss of pressure you are putting a lot of effort into protecting the engine in a very small bit of time. More wear happens from the end of the engine starting until you hit normal oil operating temperature. A prelube system that pumps oil around for a bit and builds and holds oil pressure is a better solution, but it only covers a small part of the wear problem. Clean good quality oil and the reduction of short trips or decreased oil change intervals might work better. You can't always reduce short trips but you can get that vehicle out and take it on a good run a couple of times a month or more. Pre-lube devices might be solving a problem with more money that it's worth.

 

[wcbcruzer]

I always thought most engine wear (up to 80%) occurs from cold starts. I tend to believe it too because most of the trucks I see running high mileage on the original engine are the ones that tow for a living.

 

[Steve S]

Even with a pre luber the engine still cold starts.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:

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I always thought most engine wear (up to 80%) occurs from cold starts.

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The term is "up to 90% of all wear occurs during startup". It's misused by the oil companies and it's the first (up to) 20 minutes of operation in most engines. It's anything other than steady state. Now surely some wear occurs at startup, but you're under no load. All (most) of your cylinder/ring wear is due to ill fitting pistons since they aren't fully expanded for about 20 minutes. The wear tapers off as they reach full expansion.