Amsoil 5w-30 in Ford F150 4.6l

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I couldn't wait any longer. I was gonna run this oil up to 10,000 miles but that didn't happen. These numbers reflect about 70% highway and 30% city driving.

Lab: O.A.I.
Engine: Ford 4.6 (W)
Sump: 6 quarts
Make up oil: 2 quarts
Miles on unit: 122646
Miles on oil: 8272
Previous oil: Castrol GTX 5w30

code:



iron 19

chromium 2

lead 2

copper 15

aluminum 5

silicon 9

boron 20

magnesium 779

calcium 2197

phosphorus 1209

zinc 1365

molybdenum 18

fuel
vis@100CcSt 13.60

water 0

soot/solids N/A

glycol NEG

TBN 3.91

OXID 42.0

NITR 39.0

All other numbers are 0


Lab comments: No corrective action required. Oil is suitable for continued use. Resample at next regular interval.

My cercerns are the copper which may be normal for this engine, but I'm not sure. The oxidation & nitration are obviously from 114000 miles of conventional oil & will drop on next analysis. And finally the thickening of the oil - normal for Amsoil and also due to high oxidation numbers.

Any comments?

[ September 19, 2003, 06:37 PM: Message edited by: medic ]
 
Not bad. The oil thickened to a 40wt. though. Everything else seems ok. Your next run should be better.
 
Nice numbers!

More and more I'm convinced that this is the oil for me when GC 0w30 dries up in Ontario.

I like the fact that it thickens up into a low 40wt actually, as I do believe my engine loves an oil in the 12-14cst range, so this oil starts out at 11.9 and then thickens up from there.

I absolutely can't wait to see this oil in 3MP's long term test! I know it's going to show some excellent results! Plus it'll be interesting to watch it's viscosity change as the interval goes along.

[ September 19, 2003, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
Certainly O.K. numbers but with a 6 quart sump and 2 quarts makeup-that's a lot of oil. Oxidation is high, but like you said-from the conventional oil. I wnder why it thickened up so much? I asssume the TBN is the old method-in which case this oil is pretty well done.
frown.gif


As mentioned: It will be interesting to see the next report.
 
I think it is the new testing method for TBN. I remember reading somewhere that they are using a new testing method that will produce lower numbers.

According to their website it is ASTM D 2896.

I'm hoping that make-up oil will decrease this time around. This engine has always managed to use about 1 qt of dino every 3000 so I guess I'm doing pretty good with 2 qts. over 8000 miles.

[ September 19, 2003, 08:46 PM: Message edited by: medic ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Nice numbers!

More and more I'm convinced that this is the oil for me when GC 0w30 dries up in Ontario.


I thought you were a Schaeffers kinda guy. I was considering running Schaeffers in the future and then I see a hardcore Schaeffers user talk about switching to Amsoil?

It'll still be Schaeffer blend in my motorcycle once next spring comes. I'm just a bit concerned about the lack of detergents in the 20w-50 (#705). I may just end up going with the 15w40 blend (#700) instead.
 
quote:

I thought you were a Schaeffers kinda guy. I was considering running Schaeffers in the future and then I see a hardcore Schaeffers user talk about switching to Amsoil?

No offense, but sometimes I think Patman likes to stir things up.
tongue.gif


Patman, these numbers are good, but not great. 2qts were added and the viscosity jumped quite a bit. Remember, if Amsoil doenst stay in grade in 3MP's study, it might not even make it to 17k.
 
Yes the oil thickened a bit. But ASL starts near 12. You almost make it sound as if it's gone to coal.

2qts, is a lot, but I suspect most of this was at first when the majority of the cleaning was happening.

A far as the 3mad study, what's that up to? 6 qts in 17K? Hmmm....I don't understand, staying +/- 1 grade is allowable.
 
quote:

A far as the 3mad study, what's that up to? 6 qts in 17K? Hmmm....I don't understand, staying +/- 1 grade is allowable.

+/- one grade should be allowed if you ask me. BTW, I think Amsoil 5w/10w-30 is a great oil. As much as they push Series 2000, I think the ASL/ATM are better, especially for the money. I don't see a difference????
 
I'd rather run an oil like this which goes from 12 to 13.6 cst than to run an oil like Mobil 1 0w40 which goes from 14 down to 12cst, IMHO. Call me crazy but I just have a hunch that the oil that thickens up over the interval will be in better shape than an oil which thins out, meaning it's VII are breaking down.
 
Agreed Patman, as long as it's not runaway in either direction we shouldn't get too worried. Of course the mark of a great oil is a tiny viscosity delta with time and abuse.

It's another symptom of our overanalysis, which I plead 100% guilty of!

To really put this in perspective, Amsoil AMO Full Synthetic 10W-40 STARTS at 14.0 @100°C and it pours pretty thin at room temp...so yes 13.6 @ 100°C may have moved in SAE 40 range, but....
 
I don't think one is better then the other as far as thickening and thinning. If wear numbers are good, then it doesn't matter. I don't like the idea of 0w-40 thinning, but the oil does have esters to clean up what it's leaving behind. The oil won't allow deposits. And if it does, Rx it.
 
Medic,

An engine with this many miles should be throughly cleaned with the Amsoil flush (or AutoRX) before running Amsoil for the first time. What you have here are sludge/varnish/carbon deposits that are now suspended in the oil and causing the abnormally high oxidation/nitration numbers, along with the thickening effect. I see this all the time in these situations.

I'd suggest changing just the filter after 5000 miles on the current batch of Amsoil and doing a total change after 10k-12k miles. I'd expect you still have some deposits to clean out ....

BTW, Oil Analyzers uses ASTM D-4739 to test for TBN and the lower limit is 2.0. So you still have some reserve capacity in this batch, even with all the contamination in it. The wear numbers look decent but should improve with prolonged use of Amsoil.

Tooslick
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
Medic,

An engine with this many miles should be throughly cleaned with the Amsoil flush (or AutoRX) before running Amsoil for the first time. What you have here are sludge/varnish/carbon deposits that are now suspended in the oil and causing the abnormally high oxidation/nitration numbers, along with the thickening effect. I see this all the time in these situations.


I did use the Amsoil flush (prior to learning about AutoRX) before switching to Amsoil. I can just imagine what this report would look like without a flush first.
 
Your results will get better. Amsoil 5w/10w-30 are great oils for the money. Your results now weren't that bad, but I think with continued use you will see better numbers as mentioned above.
 
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