Amsoil 10w-30 3.4 v6 7,210 miles on oil

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Ok here is my second report. This oil is the regular 10w30 Amsoil and it has 7,210 miles on the oil. I posted both reports with the first report using the Series 2k 0w30 oil with 14,523 miles on the oil. The car is a Chevy Venture with the 3.4 V6 using the Amsoil Air filter and the SDF 23 filter, one larger than what is called for. Mostly country road driving with some interstate cruising at 75MPH for 50 miles. No oil make up at all. It dropped on the dip stick only a quarter of the way down to the add mark. I used BlackStone and paid for a Dyson analysis. All I have so far is from Blackstone and that is the TBN of 2.7
shocked.gif
I don't think that this oil is any better with just half the miles on it from the first oil. What do you guys think? Give it to me straight. I'm doing these analysis mainly to get an idea of when the antifreeze is going to hit my engine since it is a known problem with the 3.4L.
code:

#2 Miles on oil 7,210 #1 Miles on oil 14,523

Total miles 26,194 Total miles 19,295

Amsoil 10w –30 Amsoil Series 2K 0w-30



#1 #2

Aluminum 9 4

Chromium 2 1

Iron 137 42

Copper 137 64

Lead 33 14

Tin 14 7

Moly 16 4

Nickel 2 1

Manganese 9 3

Silver 0 0

Titanium 0 0

Potassium 2 4

Boron 13 15

Silicon 86 27

Sodium 22 25

Calcium 2570 3018

Magnesium 346 574

Phosphorus 897 1005

Zinc 1314 1446

Barium 0 0

TBN = 2.7

Sub viscosity @210 58 - 66 = 70.7

FlashPoint >370 = 365

Fuel
Anitfreeze 0

Water 0

Insolubles .5




[ June 18, 2003, 08:59 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
That is not how I posted it. Is there a way to make it a lot neater? I had some space between everything making it much easier to read.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rat407:
That is not how I posted it. Is there a way to make it a lot neater? I had some space between everything making it much easier to read.

Put (CODE) and (/CODE) at the beginning and end, but use square brackets instead of parentheses. That will preserve your spacing.
 
If you line up the numbers in a word program and then copy and paste it in between these:

(code)(/code) (but use square brackets instead)

then it will line up, like this:

code:

Iron 5 10

Lead 7 5

Alum 7 15




[ June 18, 2003, 07:37 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
quote:

Give it to me straight

I'd like to but I can't tell what the **** I'm looking at.
grin.gif


From what I can see, your numbers are very high. Something has to be going on with your engine. I know Amsoil can't be that bad.
shocked.gif


[ June 18, 2003, 09:04 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
I fixed it for you.. The way to preserve what you are spacing like that is by hitting the
 -
button located just under the area you're writing in. When you hit that button, it will insert
{code} {/code}.

To insert your numbers like you did, just type it in between those two codes. example,
code:

{CODE}

lead 1 4

iron 8 6

copper 10 49

{/CODE}


 
Thank you. Now I know how to post in a nicer format. It sounds as easy as using the code then paste what I typed in word and then hit the code again. Simple. Thanks again.
smile.gif
 
Does not look good. But I really don't think it's the oil. In fact I know it's not the oil. I can personally vouch for running the 5W version without 10% of your wear metals number and I went 20,000 miles.

Dirt is getting in. Getting through or around the air filter. Si is high. Mn is high. Fe, Cu, Sn, Pb all high....the only amazing thing about this report is that Mo is 16 ppm...and THAT seems like a lot to be coming from the rings.

What's the fuel%?
 
Fuel is .3%

It is also 10w30 not 5w30

After the first report I went out and checked the whole system over completely and I could not see where there would be a leak. I guess I need to get an AC air filter and install that and see what happens. The PCV is nice and tight, the oil fill is tight. For some reason I am having the same problem in my truck. The air can't be that dirty here in NC
grin.gif
 
quote:

In fact I know it's not the oil

I agree with Pablo, I highly doubt it is the oil. The numbers are just too high. Amsoil's wear numbers are never this high. Be glad you did a UOA bc it might lead you to the real problem.
 
There is something seriously wrong with this engine!

I'm curious what Terry had to say about this? I don't think I've ever seen 85 ppm of silicon.

You have a massive amount of cylinder and bearing wear going on - a tin level of 14 ppm is also out of sight. A normally wearing V-6 engine with 7000 miles on the oil should have perhaps 25-30 ppm of iron.

I hate to beat up on GM, since Al does such a good job of that by himself, but geez ...
frown.gif


TooSlick
 
Well I was afraid that this was going to happen so I went and put regular 10w30 Penzoil in it. Now to let it in for 2k or so and do another analysis. This is going to get expensive but then it is cheaper than an engine if I can figure what is up with it and hopefully the warranty will come in to play, but then like they say, how can they cover an abused engine, right? There has got to be some reasoning to this. I hope Terry has some news when he gets time to read this.
 
Hmm seems like another Amsoil air filter eating the engine up
thumbsdown.gif

This looks similar to Rat407's with the fuel and insolubles too.
The air filter could be mucking up the MAF too...
Anyway, Terry is the man, wait for his report.
 
Well for anyone that might open this back up and read this post since it will put it back on top.

I took the Venture to the dealer and the first trip turned out to be bad. They just told me that my coolant was contaminated and it would cost me to have it flushed. It was not covered under warranty. I just looked at the service manager like you got to be kidding me. So off I went home and called the service line at GM from the number in the back of my book. Told them that the dealer didn't do a very good job at finding what is wrong with my car. Needless to say they got that dealers service manager on the line and told me he was sorry that it was a new service man I spoke to. He asked that I bring it in and they would find out exactly what was wrong with the coolant.
Well today that is what they did. I called to see how things were going and they told me that my head gaskets were leaking and they started to the repairs. They also set me up with a rental Trail Blazer. Not a bad vehicle.

Terry was right on with his report and coolant in the oil, here is a quote from Terry.

"TBN 2.7 smoked like a cheap cigar comes to mind, depleted by Coolant,
dexcool.

Aluminum - Chromium normal

Iron - heading back into normal range but still elevated

copper - elevated by about 20 - 30 ppm for this mileage

lead - very slight elevation

tin - elevated

moly - ring wear and elevated

Nickel - back to normal, looking for 0

Manganese - fuel additive trace, indicates aftermarket additive used or fuel
dilution, this level is add

Silver -Titanium normal none

Potassium - trace of coolant

Boron - oil add or coolant leachate, in this case coolant

Silicon - very little dirt, mostly RTV leachate and coolant

Sodium coolant add

Calcium - Barium normal adds for ATM

SUS Vis - 70.7 SAE 40w but barely which is normal for Amsoil.

Flash severely degraded in this mileage interval

Fuel 0.3% is low but I suspect dilution due to oil breaking down at ring
and valve guide seal

Antifreeze - intermittent leak that has diminished some but I suspect will
return, check intake manifold for possible leak

water - none indicated but this can cook off before it is read.

Insolubles - should be in 0.3 -0.4% for this engine, coolant issue is
affecting the combustion efficiency some but engine is burning it.


Conclusion : Engine has a intermittent coolant leak, confirm by coolant
level and get into dealer for pressure test and snifffer under warranty.
Pay primary attention to intake manifold gasket areas. Oil is shot and did
as well as it could.

High quality formulation of Amsoil is masking the coolant leak, get fixed !
These engines are "dirty " signature wise but this needs mechanical repairs.
2nd leaker of a GM 3.4 V6 in 2 days we have seen. One a day is good for
vitamins but not engines !

Change oil immediately. Questions ask !

Terry

Dyson Analysis"

Terry is just awesome. The dealer told me head gaskets but since they have to take the intake off to get to the heads then either way they all will be changed. Now to hope and keep fingers crossed that it runs right after this intense maintenance. I mean it ran great with no pinging or anything, so hopefully they will get it back together correctly. Time will tell.

Thanks to all for your help with this post.

I will be doing another UOA in 3k miles after this. I just want to flush the engine when I get it back to make sure nothing is floating around inside it after they did all this work to it.

Cheers
 
Rat, I still think your dealer is full of baloney. These engines are known to blow the manifold gaskets, but not the head gaskets. The 3.4 in my Olds van developed the manifold coolant leak at around 115,000 miles. My mother is the one who drives the van the most, and I didn't catch the leak right away, so some sludging had happened by the time I did.

I took the van to my trusted shop (no way I'd take it to the boobs at my local Olds dealer) and in three days I had it back. They did a top notch job and now with almost 140,000 miles I haven't had any further problems.

Anyhow, I guess my point is simply that I SERIOUSLY doubt your van needs head gaskets. Hopefully, once they pull the intake manifold and see where the gasket is blown, they won't pull your heads, too.
 
I just got back from the dealer to pick up my daughers car seat. I talked to them about when it might be done and they said it is up to the machine shop now. They sent the heads off to get inspected to make sure that they wear not cracked. From what I can tell they said that there wasn't any evidence of the gaskets leaking and so they wanted to make sure that the heads were good. I looked under the hood. The car was pushed outside to store till the heads get returned. Not thrilled about it. They didn't even bother to clean up the cylinders. You can see the factory hone marks and some carbon build up on 2 of the six pistons in the lower front area of the piston. The rest of the pistons looked great. No build up at all. It will be interesting to see exactly how this will pan out. With 27k on the engine and extending the drains like I did, all the area's inside from what I can tell looked clean with no build up. But then if there was with that little mileage on it then something serious would have to be happening and the use of super generic oil with no oil changes I guess.
 
Make sure they use the NEW manifold gasket design. Even though GM won't officially admit there is a problem, they redesigned the gasket and put out a TSB on it. The new gasket is much stiffer and requires more torque on the bolts. The old gasket had a surprisingly low amount of torque on the bolts. I'm not positive, but I believe the new gasket came out in April. I was "lucky". My 3.4L developed the leak in May and I got the new gasket. Otherwise, I'd be replacing it again in a few years.
 
Well I just picked up my Venture today. It is all done. This is what they told me.

They did a pressure test and no leaks outside where noted. Further inspection proved that there was a coolant leak on the exhaust side of the heads. This allowed exhaust to get into the coolant and causing it to get the brownish color and deposits in it.

They took the heads off. How I don't know but when I went over to the dealer the day they did the tear down the van was sitting outside the shop with the engine still in it, power steering sitting off to the side, exhaust manifolds sitting off to the back and the other removed from the front. You could see the pistons and block nothing in the way at all. Don't know where the intake was at. It wasn't in the car or in the engine compartment. So I guess they took it apart in the van. Or like you said took the engine out pulled the heads and put it back in. That I really dought but if you say it can't be done in the car then that is what they must have done. It didn't look that way to me at all. It looked like they just pulled the heads and that was it. I do know that they did it in a day from the time I dropped it off that morning to find out what was wrong with it, that afternoon it was torn apart and the heads sent to the machine shop. I didn't watch how they did it, but would like to have. I'm no pro but can do my own work if I wanted to. rebuilt my 396 in my 65 Impala. So It would have been interesting to see how they did the work and got back to those back head bolts.
grin.gif


Now the machine shop inspected them and found them warped. My understanding is they machined them back flat to specs. So they installed the machined heads with the new gaskets and put it all back together. They changed the oil and filter and test drove it. Hey since they milled the heads does that mean my compression went up and now I have a race car???
shocked.gif
yea I can see it now NOS shift kit all in a venture, smoking the local camaro's and mustangs.
wink.gif


It drove great on the way home, all 30 miles. Now to get the burning off smell to go away. The coolant is nice and pink, oil is good, drove well, ran great, no pinging ran just like it did before I took it in. It has a one year 12k mile warranty on the work they did.

jscott,

1. "Did running a good synthetic oil help by reducing the contimination of Dexcool?"

In my opinion, YES YES YES. I feel it protected the engine far better than a regular oil would have. Also Terry explained to me that the only thing that saved my engine is the fact that I was runing synthetic and it just happened to be AMSOIL 10w30.

2." What are the likely long term effects of this?"

From what I can tell, leaking coolant inside an engine can cause some serious sludge. It also really breaks down the oil and so your not getting the protection like you should and can cause excessive wear and possible cam and or bearing failure in time.

3. "Did you have any "gel" buildup inside the valve cover/PCV area? I am curious what my numbers might be like?"

I didn't have any build up. I didn't let it get that far. I was having Oil analysis's done from the begining with it being a new vehicle. The first analysis didn't turn out well and the second one was even worse. Terry confirmed the coolant in the oil and I noticed the dark discolored coolant in the overflow tank and took it to the dealer for inspection. This is when they found what they did. The vehicle has 27k on it and since the intake leak is a known problem I started UOA's to try and catch it before the warranty went out and I was lucky that I did. It is odd that the heads were warped though. It never over heated on us at all and ran fine from day one. So the heads must have been bad from the factory, or the dexcool at at the head gasket and the leak at the exhaust valve caused them to warp. I don't feel the dealer is telling me a story either. They don't want to do more work than needed. Heck they could have just pulled the intake, said it was the problem and installed it again. They didn't have to do the heads or even send them off for inspection. But they did and did it right and I'm happy for that at least.

So that is the what happened. Now to run this oil for 1k and change it and then run another regular Penzoil for 3k and take another sample. Think that is a good idea? I'm up for suggestions. I know now that they did all that maintenance that I will get high numbers due to the new gaskets and sealants.

I'm busy with the kids tonight so I didn't have a chance to review this so please excuse any mistakes.
 
Don't wait for 3K, take a sample at 1K, send it off to Blackstone, Package #46 and have Terry take a look at it and follow his recommendations from there.
 
I also own a Venture w/ 3.4 that had the intake gaskets replaced. The van was purchased used with 19k and had 58k when I noticed "gel" in the valve cover/PCV. The M15W30 had about 4K on it, and it had apparantly leaked for some time. The van now has 68k on it and will receive a full UOA at the next oil change. Based on yours and my experience, I have a few questions.

1. Did running a good synthetic oil help by reducing the contimination of Dexcool?
2. What are the likely long term effects of this?
3. Did you have any "gel" buildup inside the valve cover/PCV area? I am curious what my numbers might be like?

Thanks,
Jim
 
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