Nick1994
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I always switch brands of oil, every oil change. But that's because I only buy oil that's on clearance
Always using the same oil ?
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#1) The engine needs oil. So you have to put something in there...
#2) 300V is one of the best oils on the planet. It costs like $19/L over here. If you can get it affordably where you are, use it and drive on with peace of mind.
3#) There is a body of engineering evidence that says oil makes anti-wear (AW) compounds in that specific engine based on the metallurgy used, the heat and pressures available, etc. These compounds are "activated" from the additive package.
The goal is to have some of these locally formed AW compounds available at all times. So the consensus is to retain 10% of used motor oil when you change. That is usually accomplished by leaving the filter in place for a few weeks after an oil drop. The used oil will mix with the new and keep some AW functioning until the new oil has had a chance to form compounds too. Then change the filter and top up.
Obviously none of this would work if you switched brands and started with a new Add-Pak based on other chemistry... So depending on how long you want that motor to run (mechanically), you might consider staying with a reliable brand that can be bought at reasonable cost and used repeatedly.
In the long run, delaying a car or truck replacement by a few years, or an engine overhaul will offset the cost difference in oil by many many times over
#2) 300V is one of the best oils on the planet. It costs like $19/L over here. If you can get it affordably where you are, use it and drive on with peace of mind.
3#) There is a body of engineering evidence that says oil makes anti-wear (AW) compounds in that specific engine based on the metallurgy used, the heat and pressures available, etc. These compounds are "activated" from the additive package.
The goal is to have some of these locally formed AW compounds available at all times. So the consensus is to retain 10% of used motor oil when you change. That is usually accomplished by leaving the filter in place for a few weeks after an oil drop. The used oil will mix with the new and keep some AW functioning until the new oil has had a chance to form compounds too. Then change the filter and top up.
Obviously none of this would work if you switched brands and started with a new Add-Pak based on other chemistry... So depending on how long you want that motor to run (mechanically), you might consider staying with a reliable brand that can be bought at reasonable cost and used repeatedly.
In the long run, delaying a car or truck replacement by a few years, or an engine overhaul will offset the cost difference in oil by many many times over
BrocLuno,
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
#2) 300V is one of the best oils on the planet.
Is this objective or subjective feeling?
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
#2) 300V is one of the best oils on the planet.
Is this objective or subjective feeling?
Popsy,
Originally Posted By: Popsy
You are indeed right, the Valvoline product I was considering (Maxlife 5W40) doesn't have a sodium add pack.
By the way, similar discussion is going on in neighbor thread http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...ry?#Post4147503
Originally Posted By: Popsy
You are indeed right, the Valvoline product I was considering (Maxlife 5W40) doesn't have a sodium add pack.
By the way, similar discussion is going on in neighbor thread http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...ry?#Post4147503
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
But it's a moving target as engines get smaller and work harder.
Originally Posted By: volodymyr
HerrStig,
Exactly. I think in Europe we have a trend of smaller and more powerful engines due to emissions limits and taxes on engine volume. As a result you see a lot of turbo charged engines (both petrol and diesel) with volume 0.8 to 1.4 liter producing something like 100 - 140 hp.
I've checked the specs of Nissan 1.2 DIG-T engine and it is a flat tappet engine, with turbo which specs A3/B4 xW-40 oils ...
I think it is hard to find a normally aspirated piston engine works harder than Honda S2000, especially the AP1 with 2L that makes 240 HP and rev to 9000 RPM.
What is oil spec ? Conventional 10W30 for anyplace warmer than 0F(about minus 16C).
I used different brands and types(dino then syn then dino ...), so far no problem after 12 years and 60 k miles in the S2000.
My other cars almost never had the same brand and type and grade for more than 2 consecutive oil changes. LS400 lasted more than 380k miles without problem, E430 had xW20 for 7-8 years without problem too.
But it's a moving target as engines get smaller and work harder.
Originally Posted By: volodymyr
HerrStig,
Exactly. I think in Europe we have a trend of smaller and more powerful engines due to emissions limits and taxes on engine volume. As a result you see a lot of turbo charged engines (both petrol and diesel) with volume 0.8 to 1.4 liter producing something like 100 - 140 hp.
I've checked the specs of Nissan 1.2 DIG-T engine and it is a flat tappet engine, with turbo which specs A3/B4 xW-40 oils ...
I think it is hard to find a normally aspirated piston engine works harder than Honda S2000, especially the AP1 with 2L that makes 240 HP and rev to 9000 RPM.
What is oil spec ? Conventional 10W30 for anyplace warmer than 0F(about minus 16C).
I used different brands and types(dino then syn then dino ...), so far no problem after 12 years and 60 k miles in the S2000.
My other cars almost never had the same brand and type and grade for more than 2 consecutive oil changes. LS400 lasted more than 380k miles without problem, E430 had xW20 for 7-8 years without problem too.
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When I bought my Wife her '05 Dodge Neon SXT in '07, I ran Mobil 1 and Synpower the first year. Ever since then, I've used nothing but Pennzoil Platinumin. And I've run nothing but Platinumin in my car since buying it in '12.
L8R,
Matt
L8R,
Matt
Originally Posted By: volodymyr
BrocLuno,
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
#2) 300V is one of the best oils on the planet.
Is this objective or subjective feeling?
I've used it in race motors and hot bikes. It holds up very well to heat and valve spring pressures. But, don't take my word for it, drop by 540RAT's Blog and look at the ranking yourself. It used to be in the top 5. Now it may be in the top 20 as other refiners have stepped up their game. But it is no slouch for performance
BrocLuno,
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
#2) 300V is one of the best oils on the planet.
Is this objective or subjective feeling?
I've used it in race motors and hot bikes. It holds up very well to heat and valve spring pressures. But, don't take my word for it, drop by 540RAT's Blog and look at the ranking yourself. It used to be in the top 5. Now it may be in the top 20 as other refiners have stepped up their game. But it is no slouch for performance
HTSS_TR,
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
[...]
I think it is hard to find a normally aspirated piston engine works harder than Honda S2000, especially the AP1 with 2L that makes 240 HP and rev to 9000 RPM.
What is oil spec ? Conventional 10W30 for anyplace warmer than 0F(about minus 16C).
[...]
It is either:
1. You are right
2. Honda makes great stuff and S2000 is an exception
P.S. I went thru lube adviser of Shell and it recommends their top level oil Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 with tough specs like MB 229.5, Porsche A40, A3/B4
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
[...]
I think it is hard to find a normally aspirated piston engine works harder than Honda S2000, especially the AP1 with 2L that makes 240 HP and rev to 9000 RPM.
What is oil spec ? Conventional 10W30 for anyplace warmer than 0F(about minus 16C).
[...]
It is either:
1. You are right
2. Honda makes great stuff and S2000 is an exception
P.S. I went thru lube adviser of Shell and it recommends their top level oil Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 with tough specs like MB 229.5, Porsche A40, A3/B4
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Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I always switch brands of oil, every oil change. But that's because I only buy oil that's on clearance
Ditto.
My Elantra got 130,000+ miles never using the same oil twice in a row. Dino, syn, blend, 5w30, 10w30, even 10w-40 once. Usually 7500 mile OCI, but on syn I was doing 10,000 miles.
Valve cover was leaking just a bit when I sold it 2 years ago, still see it driving around town now.
My truck actually has had the last 3 changes of Nexgen, with one more till I switch (Havoline High Mileage is next, maybe some Castrol SynBlend).
Wife's Scion got whatever Toyota put in it first 3 oil changes, currently has PP and will for next 4 changes. Then some Valvoline Syn and Quaker State Synthetic.
I am not worried about using different oils.
I always switch brands of oil, every oil change. But that's because I only buy oil that's on clearance
Ditto.
My Elantra got 130,000+ miles never using the same oil twice in a row. Dino, syn, blend, 5w30, 10w30, even 10w-40 once. Usually 7500 mile OCI, but on syn I was doing 10,000 miles.
Valve cover was leaking just a bit when I sold it 2 years ago, still see it driving around town now.
My truck actually has had the last 3 changes of Nexgen, with one more till I switch (Havoline High Mileage is next, maybe some Castrol SynBlend).
Wife's Scion got whatever Toyota put in it first 3 oil changes, currently has PP and will for next 4 changes. Then some Valvoline Syn and Quaker State Synthetic.
I am not worried about using different oils.
Like I ways implying above, 300V used to be at the top of the game. But other refiners have been working their chemistry. Shell is not sitting still. So it's no surprise that they are catching up...
But, I still would have no problem running 300V in anything short of a Jet engine and expecting it to perform flawlessly
The Porsche A40 list is a good place to find very good oils
But, I still would have no problem running 300V in anything short of a Jet engine and expecting it to perform flawlessly
The Porsche A40 list is a good place to find very good oils
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
[...]
I think it is hard to find a normally aspirated piston engine works harder than Honda S2000, especially the AP1 with 2L that makes 240 HP and rev to 9000 RPM.
What is oil spec ? Conventional 10W30 for anyplace warmer than 0F(about minus 16C).
[...]
Originally Posted By: volodymyr
HTSS_TR,
It is either:
1. You are right
2. Honda makes great stuff and S2000 is an exception
P.S. I went thru lube adviser of Shell and it recommends their top level oil Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 with tough specs like MB 229.5, Porsche A40, A3/B4
Mobil USA recommends these Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30, Mobil 1 10W30 ... all 10W30 varieties, after you enter the temperature range.
Honda manual states the same: warmer than zero F use 10W30, colder than zero F use 5W40. Honda never recommends European spec for vehicles sold in USA, they only recommends API oil spec.
[...]
I think it is hard to find a normally aspirated piston engine works harder than Honda S2000, especially the AP1 with 2L that makes 240 HP and rev to 9000 RPM.
What is oil spec ? Conventional 10W30 for anyplace warmer than 0F(about minus 16C).
[...]
Originally Posted By: volodymyr
HTSS_TR,
It is either:
1. You are right
2. Honda makes great stuff and S2000 is an exception
P.S. I went thru lube adviser of Shell and it recommends their top level oil Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 with tough specs like MB 229.5, Porsche A40, A3/B4
Mobil USA recommends these Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30, Mobil 1 10W30 ... all 10W30 varieties, after you enter the temperature range.
Honda manual states the same: warmer than zero F use 10W30, colder than zero F use 5W40. Honda never recommends European spec for vehicles sold in USA, they only recommends API oil spec.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Honda manual states the same: warmer than zero F use 10W30, colder than zero F use 5W40. Honda never recommends European spec for vehicles sold in USA, they only recommends API oil spec.
Castrol Oz specs 0W40 A3/B4, or 5W30 A3/B4 for those engines.
Honda not speccing a Euro grade in a country that needs the OEM to engrave the desired viscosity on the oil filler cap doesn't mean that there aren't more suitable oils for the engine.
Honda manual states the same: warmer than zero F use 10W30, colder than zero F use 5W40. Honda never recommends European spec for vehicles sold in USA, they only recommends API oil spec.
Castrol Oz specs 0W40 A3/B4, or 5W30 A3/B4 for those engines.
Honda not speccing a Euro grade in a country that needs the OEM to engrave the desired viscosity on the oil filler cap doesn't mean that there aren't more suitable oils for the engine.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I get an increase in oil consumption when switching brands. The engine has an allergic reaction.
Do you every use the same fill for more than two consecutive oil changes? For someone so sensitive to sound variations, you sure like exacerbating your engine's allergies.
Personally, in regards to the OP's question, I tend to stick with something for a relatively long time, with some experimentation here and there. I doubt it makes a huge difference, but there are certain times when it's best to stick with one product. If one is really paranoid about cold cranking performance (or just paranoid in general about mixing like me), then it's best to stay with one thing. Also, if one is trying to run used oil analysis, it's best to stick to the same oil, for which a VOA has been obtained from the same lab. Otherwise, you're simply trying to run a trended analysis without a trend, which is rather pointless.
I get an increase in oil consumption when switching brands. The engine has an allergic reaction.
Do you every use the same fill for more than two consecutive oil changes? For someone so sensitive to sound variations, you sure like exacerbating your engine's allergies.
Personally, in regards to the OP's question, I tend to stick with something for a relatively long time, with some experimentation here and there. I doubt it makes a huge difference, but there are certain times when it's best to stick with one product. If one is really paranoid about cold cranking performance (or just paranoid in general about mixing like me), then it's best to stay with one thing. Also, if one is trying to run used oil analysis, it's best to stick to the same oil, for which a VOA has been obtained from the same lab. Otherwise, you're simply trying to run a trended analysis without a trend, which is rather pointless.
There are only so many additive companies in the world . There isn't that much difference between the oils[ Especially with in price points] and what is the difference in the oil when it is a new oil as compared to the oil when it is drained.
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