Exactly. There is always a protective system on the red main battery cable - it could be a fuseable link or a maxifuse. Seen this many times when people don't disconnect the battery when changing alternators and the touch something metal and get a big spark - which blows the circuit too.
The fuse is OK and hasn't blown. I've ordered a new one just to troubleshoot and be extra safe.
What do you guys think of this? - I tried the trick mentioned above (thanks Chris142) and here's what occurred:
Scenario 1: Car is started without jump lead attached from battery to alternator. Original positive wire from battery to alternator only.
Battery maintains somewhere between 10-11v (dropped to around 9 with headlights, AC and hazard lights on). It's a recently charged and new battery which is why I expected the value is able to maintain some level of consistent power with the electrics in the car off. If left running for 10-30 minutes it would eventually drain.
Scenario 2: Car is started with jump lead attached from positive terminal to alternator (along with the original wire too).
Battery now maintains somewhere between 11 & 12v. Note that this test was done after scenario 1 where the battery dropped to around 9.
I'm trying to not be too optimistic here, but do you think it's possible the wiring to and from the alternator just needs replacing? But then again, with the jump leads attached in scenario 2, you'd still expect the volts to be around 14v. My thinking at the moment is to try scenario 2 again, but try and remove the original positive cable from both the battery and alternator & try it with the jump lead connection only.
I'm desperate to get it to an auto-electrician who will know much more than I do, but without being able to drive the car to them, it's hard to get anyone close by to come take a look - as I live a little out the way.
