All saturns burn oil?

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I have had several GM products that went 3-7K with no real oil loss including my current 02 Cavalier Ecotec. On the the hand, my 92 Grand Am with the HO Quad 4 required continual oil topping up. Had I know then what I know now, maybe I would have tried to free the rings with Auto RX of FP, LC, etc.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnnyG:
These engines have the same basic design philosophy of the Northstar, though I don't know which design came first. They are in fact designed to burn some oil. This is mostly due to a very heavy crosshatch pattern left behind during the honing of the pistons. The reason this is done is to promote very VERY good lubrication of the rings. If you want to design an engine that will run over 150,000 - 300,000 miles without ring wear, they had better be WELL lubricated. Unfortunately, this design was rolled out to a public that expected much lower oil consumption. Most of us (and I include myself) were under the MISTAKEN impression that an engine that burns (some) oil is a bad thing. It's NOT! A few things can happen to foul up GM's brilliant design. 1) Hone stones, when new leave a VERY sharp pattern..inversely, hone stones when worn will leave a less agressive pattern, so you end up with varying degrees of oil comsumption. The guys that end up with the big oil eaters start trying wierd stuff to stop the oils usage, like using an oil with a LOT of VII's. This is the WRONG choice since burning high amounts of VII's actually promote ring sticking. Ovefilling the crankcase with excessive amounts of oil also contribute to the oil consumption problem. As the link points out, the engine oil should be checked HOT and after it has set for 5 minutes on a LEVEL surface. Once you have a percieved problem, you need to figure out the best course of treatment. The ring cleaning solvents are a good choice, but that will not work in EVERY case. That depends on several factors including the original hone pattern of the cylinder walls. Best advice is to follow the GM procedures if you feel the need, then to ONLY use the type and weight of oil called for in your owners manual. After the most recent developements in oil technology are finally available to all the public, the oil useage problem should diminish. Looks like the GF-4 Drive Clean will be an outstanding and economical choice.

Yeah, I've heard this before. It's pretty much the Saturn party line on oil burning. Here's the problem with the theory: most oil burning doesn't start until several 10s of thousands of miles. Mine didn't start in any significance until 50,000 miles or so. Your theory would suggest oil burning from the get-go, which is not the experience of most.

Here's another problem. The oil burning gets progressively worse, and even Saturn acknowledges that anything more than 1 quart in 2000 miles is a problem. The burning gets progressively worse regardless of the kind of oil, brand of oil, or weight of oil used -- period. Doesn't matter if it has a lot of VII improvers or not.

Finally, anyone who's taken apart one of these oil burning engines will find the same thing: rings baked together into the grooves. After years of chasing the problem, I've concluded the following:

1) You're right: some amount of oil burning is to be expected, and is perfectly acceptable.

2) On Saturns at least, even those that burn ridiculous amounts of oil can do so for literally hundreds of thousands of miles with no ill effect. A couple extra quarts of oil and learning to check the oil frequently is far cheaper than a re-ring.

3) Your best hope is to stave off the problem in the first place. Since I didn't do this, I don't know what might work, but I have some ideas. Some suggest running MMO in the oil for the last 500 miles before every oil change; I wonder if consistent use of Auto RX or Lube Control from the start might do the trick. Whatever the case, the oil burning will begin and worsen regardless of whether you run Redline or Mobil 1, and regardless of whether you change your oil every 3000 miles: other measures are needed, which brings me to my final point:

4) I believe the best solution is a maintenance piston soak done every time the spark plugs are replaced, right from the beginning. I would do this every 20,000 miles. I'll bet this would keep the problem completely at bay, and some have had success reversing the problem through piston soaks done at regular intervals.
 
Of the four Saturn owners I know they add oil but not sure if that is a good sample. Two have a case in the back of their wagons .

IMHO, consumption is normal and 1.6qt over 4k miles is not bad. You should be checking the oil anyway on any car every other or third fillup. It only takes an extra 30 seconds to add oil and oil is beyond cheap (ie SuperTech or anything else for $1).

I have one oil consumer rare according to a lot of people (1996 Civic with 160k miles 1QT/1500 miles). Unfortunately my wife never looks under hood.
 
quote:

quote:
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Originally posted by JohnnyG:
These engines have the same basic design philosophy of the Northstar, though I don't know which design came first. They are in fact designed to burn some oil. This is mostly due to a very heavy crosshatch pattern left behind during the honing of the pistons. The reason this is done is to promote very VERY good lubrication of the rings. If you want to design an engine that will run over 150,000 - 300,000 miles without ring wear, they had better be WELL lubricated. Unfortunately, this design was rolled out to a public that expected much lower oil consumption. Most of us (and I include myself) were under the MISTAKEN impression that an engine that burns (some) oil is a bad thing. It's NOT! A few things can happen to foul up GM's brilliant design. 1) Hone stones, when new leave a VERY sharp pattern..inversely, hone stones when worn will leave a less agressive pattern, so you end up with varying degrees of oil comsumption. The guys that end up with the big oil eaters start trying wierd stuff to stop the oils usage, like using an oil with a LOT of VII's. This is the WRONG choice since burning high amounts of VII's actually promote ring sticking. Ovefilling the crankcase with excessive amounts of oil also contribute to the oil consumption problem. As the link points out, the engine oil should be checked HOT and after it has set for 5 minutes on a LEVEL surface. Once you have a percieved problem, you need to figure out the best course of treatment. The ring cleaning solvents are a good choice, but that will not work in EVERY case. That depends on several factors including the original hone pattern of the cylinder walls. Best advice is to follow the GM procedures if you feel the need, then to ONLY use the type and weight of oil called for in your owners manual. After the most recent developements in oil technology are finally available to all the public, the oil useage problem should diminish. Looks like the GF-4 Drive Clean will be an outstanding and economical choice.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yeah, I've heard this before. It's pretty much the Saturn party line on oil burning. Here's the problem with the theory: most oil burning doesn't start until several 10s of thousands of miles. Mine didn't start in any significance until 50,000 miles or so. Your theory would suggest oil burning from the get-go, which is not the experience of most.

Here's another problem. The oil burning gets progressively worse, and even Saturn acknowledges that anything more than 1 quart in 2000 miles is a problem. The burning gets progressively worse regardless of the kind of oil, brand of oil, or weight of oil used -- period. Doesn't matter if it has a lot of VII improvers or not.

Finally, anyone who's taken apart one of these oil burning engines will find the same thing: rings baked together into the grooves. After years of chasing the problem, I've concluded the following:

1) You're right: some amount of oil burning is to be expected, and is perfectly acceptable.

2) On Saturns at least, even those that burn ridiculous amounts of oil can do so for literally hundreds of thousands of miles with no ill effect. A couple extra quarts of oil and learning to check the oil frequently is far cheaper than a re-ring.

3) Your best hope is to stave off the problem in the first place. Since I didn't do this, I don't know what might work, but I have some ideas. Some suggest running MMO in the oil for the last 500 miles before every oil change; I wonder if consistent use of Auto RX or Lube Control from the start might do the trick. Whatever the case, the oil burning will begin and worsen regardless of whether you run Redline or Mobil 1, and regardless of whether you change your oil every 3000 miles: other measures are needed, which brings me to my final point:

4) I believe the best solution is a maintenance piston soak done every time the spark plugs are replaced, right from the beginning. I would do this every 20,000 miles. I'll bet this would keep the problem completely at bay, and some have had success reversing the problem through piston soaks done at regular intervals.

I think both of our posts agree exactly on all points except why do some new engines not begin to burn oil until after several thousand miles. I think one possible answer to that is that it takes a while for some owners to either choose the wrong oil, or for the "slight" amount of oil burning to finally get bad enough to "bake the rings together into the grooves". Did you ever think that it may be the "Saturn party line" because it's the truth? At least you didn't say the rings were worn down to nothing...now that would be a surprise. I bet every one of those engines that burned oil still had visible crosshatch honing patterns visible on the cylinder walls too.
 
Something must have come over me!

I suddenly find myself refering to every post with Castrol Syntec 10W-40 instead of HDEO! On the other hand the afore mentioned M1 0W-40 European Car Formula would work too.

Gene
 
By Johnny G
"Some amount of oil burning is to be expected, and is perfectly acceptble"
Geez, Did you used to sell Chevy Vega's
I don't see anything Spectacular about these cars that makes the Hassle and Risk of Oil consumtion acceptable.
 
Spitty, Who are you quoting? I re-read my post several times and could not find that statement in it, including the misspelling. I think you incorrectly gave me credit for kev99sl's reply. Anyway, I'll give you the "hassle" part, but what exactly is the "risk"? It seems that even those that have torn down the engines to repair them indicate that there was no immenent failure indicated. It seems that the greatest risk is poisoning the CAT, so guess what....SM oil comes along. At any rate, it appears that oil usage in some cars will be with us for a while...deal with it as best you can.
 
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