All I did was put a battery in it.

I did a parasitic draw test on my 2019 Toyota just for funsies. It didn't make a difference locked or unlocked. It went way down but every couple minutes current draw spiked. I assume it was phoning home?

I would be interested to know what BMW is doing - just for curiosity.
Not sure. Never tested to see exactly which module is working (there are 64 in mine, and mine doesn’t even have comfort access). But, i Will go to garage fridge 20-30min after parking car and suddenly you here some pump is working.
 
Not sure. Never tested to see exactly which module is working (there are 64 in mine, and mine doesn’t even have comfort access). But, i Will go to garage fridge 20-30min after parking car and suddenly you here some pump is working.
Is it turbo? Turbo cooling cycling?

Same for some hybrids - battery cooling.
 
Really it's quite a clever system, been in use for over two decades now in BMWs. It monitors the capacity and state of charge of the battery for a couple of reasons - regenerative charging for fuel efficiency in so-equipped models (EfficientDynamics alternator), health monitoring so that it can pop an error before you're left stranded, and it constantly calculates the percentage of the battery's capacity needed to start the car and shuts down systems so that the battery state of charge never crosses that threshold. Theoretically, you'll never be left stranded if you leave the interior lights on, run the radio too long, so on and so forth. The benefit of this is that you can have functions like interior ventilation with the engine off, roadside parking lamps, and so on without risk of critically discharging the battery.

In a normal battery swap, all you're doing is resetting the battery health/capacity monitoring to match the new battery. Another upshot is that if you change from a flooded to AGM or vice versa, you can change the charging behavior for optimal longevity in either case with just a button press.

I'm not one to praise overly complex systems, but I've never been left stranded due to a bad battery on a BMW. It will preserve the capacity of even a very bad one to where the car can still start, and the battery management seems to help them live longer in the first place.
Our 2011 BMW E90 sits in the garage, many times for a week or more at a time, and it's usually locked. Over that time I'll walk by it a dozen times or more, and it simply sits there in silence. However, if I approach or walk by it with its proximity key in my pocket (Comfort Access) I can hear the car wake up. It makes subtle electrical sounds, whirring sounds - and I haven't even touched it. In other words, the car is never truly shutdown. It's always "listening".

BMW's IBS is a useful bit of technology - if one knows what it does and how to properly program it when a new or different battery is installed. Simply slapping in a new battery defeats the entire purpose of the IBS. The IBS must know the charge capacity and age of the replacement battery so it knows the point it needs to shut things down in order to guarantee the car will start. Useful, very useful.

If @Chris142 is replacing dead BMW batteries every two years it's because people and/or shops are simply slapping in new batteries without programing the IBS when a new or different capacity battery is installed. Not programming the IBS is analogous to driving without an accurate gas gauge.

Let me add, our 130K mile, 15 year old E90 BMW has had just one battery replacement - and I replaced the 8 or 9 year old original when it started to crank more slowly after sitting for awhile. It never went completely dead - by design. The second one (an Interstate AGM) is still in there and is showing no signs of going soft.

Scott
 
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Is it turbo? Turbo cooling cycling?

Same for some hybrids - battery cooling.
No, naturally aspirated. It does have an electric cooling pump, and the fuel pump will work after that to check pressure. Even if the car goes into rest mode, if you open any door, the fuel pump immediately engages to check pressure, and the car basically stays awake for at least 30 minutes.
I guess it also explains the battery that is 95ah.
 
...
I would be interested to know what BMW is doing - just for curiosity.
As of 15ish years ago, they (regular internal combustion engine BMWs) were shutting down in phases when left unlocked. I think the (almost) full shutdown was at minute 16, with a partial at minute 6 or something.
If you want to disconnect the battery, it's keys out, leave one door open, and watch when the the dome lights turn off. Usually 8 minutes or so.
 
As of 15ish years ago, they (regular internal combustion engine BMWs) were shutting down in phases when left unlocked. I think the (almost) full shutdown was at minute 16, with a partial at minute 6 or something.
If you want to disconnect the battery, it's keys out, leave one door open, and watch when the the dome lights turn off. Usually 8 minutes or so.
My Nissans are more like an hour. Different controllers shut down in phases. But eventually it’s pulling only 15mA. My Toyota is about the same except for the every 2 minute or so communication spike.

Poster inferred BMW never shut down?
 
As of 15ish years ago, they (regular internal combustion engine BMWs) were shutting down in phases when left unlocked. I think the (almost) full shutdown was at minute 16, with a partial at minute 6 or something.
If you want to disconnect the battery, it's keys out, leave one door open, and watch when the the dome lights turn off. Usually 8 minutes or so.
For example I posted here reference my Toyota:

Hooked up my ohm meter properly.

Initially surge on connection was well over an Amp. Good thing I used the 10A setting!

A few seconds and it dropped to 400mA.

In about 60 seconds it dropped to 200mA. It stayed there for quite a while. There is a "hood open" picture in the dash, which is why I presume what was pulling much of that.

By about 45 minutes it was down to 10mA. However it did this weird cycle. Would sit at 10mA for about 15 seconds, then would cycle almost instantly up to 40mA, back to 10mA, then 20mA, then back to 10mA. So in about 2 seconds - 10mA-40mA-10mA-20mA-10mA. Then would sit there for 15 seconds approx. and start again. I presume possibly that is the DCM pinging something every 15 seconds or so? I might try to disconnect the DCM and test that way sometime?

So my observations are that it gets to a pretty low rest current - 10mA. Even with the constant momentary cycling to 40mA seems to be much less current than it seems most people on the www claim these new cars pull at rest. I doubt any of this is the problem with my battery, likely just another lousy JCI battery failing in warranty.
 
For example I posted here reference my Toyota:
I’ve heard the EVAP pump on the Camry/Prius/RXh run for 10-30 minutes after the car has been parked for several hours. The newer of those three also have DCMs in them, all have smart keys.

Also, if you have JBL/ML sound, the amps don’t do into full shutdown. They go to sleep. A friend with a T4R ripped out his JBL system after he had a huge parasitic draw from a bad amp. A battery on the oldest of the family fleet can go 5-6 years(Costco Clarios/JCI flooded), the Prius has spit out an Optima in three years. The RXh is still on a 8 year old Clarios AGM as OEM.
 
I’ve heard the EVAP pump on the Camry/Prius/RXh run for 10-30 minutes after the car has been parked for several hours. The newer of those three also have DCMs in them, all have smart keys.

Also, if you have JBL/ML sound, the amps don’t do into full shutdown. They go to sleep. A friend with a T4R ripped out his JBL system after he had a huge parasitic draw from a bad amp. A battery on the oldest of the family fleet can go 5-6 years(Costco Clarios/JCI flooded), the Prius has spit out an Optima in three years. The RXh is still on a 8 year old Clarios AGM as OEM.
Mine has JBL. Mine still goes to 10mA so unless it’s the one cycling power?

I have heard the Evap pump. I don’t know what it pulls - I did the draw test when it was cold.
 
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