All coatings are created equally! (and I have a bridge for sale in Brooklyn)

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Apr 11, 2011
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The Ceramic and Graphene detailing products market is absolutely insane with options... Honestly its enough options to have pushed me away and continued use of old school Carnauba mostly. I have always been partial to Maguire's, Adams, some Mothers, and a few other products here and there.

Currently my ceramic "coating" is being applied as a quick detail after wash and wax, using GRIOTS 3in1 spray. I have used other true ceramic coatings on other vehicles, but not the Lexus.

I can get the beading out of the Griots, and a decent finish. In fact it repels water quite well, easy on easy off!
However, I am looking for easy clean out of a ceramic coating. I commute in the Lex everyday over 100 miles and a lot of that is parallel to a river which means I get PAINTED with bugs everyday. I quite literally spray off the car almost every morning...

*I am looking for recommendations from real world experience on a DIY (applicator applied) ceramic or graphene coating that allows for easier removal of bugs or prevents hem from sticking altogether (I know that's impossible). I am in Central PA so winter is coming fast and I really want to get this coated before winter so I have time to do it over if needed. I also understand that any decent coating is going to need maintenance doses and maintenance cleansing, which is quite fine. Also looking for anew PH balanced car shampoo for my cannon, if you wanna add any info on that also.

Thanks in advance everyone.
 
Juniata? Susquehanna? Allegheny? Inquiring minds want to know. Cross over the Susquehanna in spring on the route 340 bridge at Columbia and you'll take home a ton of may flies.
 
Being in the custom Harley business. Paint coatings are pushed on me by marketers. I will not give any public indorsment. That being said our bikes and vehicles are coated with carpro cquarts uk. All clears sprayed are House of Colors clear. Protects and pops verynicely. It also offers the best abrasion protection on gas tanks.
 
I put Mothers CMX on and its good X2 following directions, its good, then and put Nufinish Ceramic spray on roof of car as a experment,and wow very slick and glossy , more than the CMX,,really liked the nufinish ceramic better than wax spray. its very affordable at $12.97 at Benards.
 
Just did a car with Adams Ceramic coating (Amazon, about $100 for the kit). Paint prep is key. So is following the included directions precisely. The car looks great. Not hard to accomplish. Highly recommended.
 
Did two cars with Adams Ceramic coating, followed by Jescar's Powerlock Plus, followed by Collinite 845. Still beading 4 months later. I'll see how long it lasts. Prep was key.
 
I don’t bother with ceramic coatings. That said, I’ve been impressed with Gyeon CanCoat.

But really, Griot’s spray ceramic is all I use. And all you need unless you need concours-grade paint.
 
I don’t bother with ceramic coatings. That said, I’ve been impressed with Gyeon CanCoat.

But really, Griot’s spray ceramic is all I use. And all you need unless you need concours-grade paint.
It may be all YOU need, but its definitely not cutting it for me... GRIOTS is a great product but I do not believe this particular product is intended to be a final lasting coat, its more of a touch up or temp thing I think.
 
I love Adams products, Currently have their ceramic graphene coating on my windshield instead of rain-X.
I think they have an awesome iron remover as well, it works great.

I got in some CQ.UK 3.0 from CARPRO, as recommended above and seen in other recommendations. I will try this for now and see how it works.
 
I feel your pain on the bugs!! I’ve got a black car and they show up very clearly so I’ve tried a number of options in the spray coating/ ceramic realm none of which have made much of a difference. My latest approach is to focus on the bug remover sprays and see what makes them come off the easiest.
 
I feel your pain on the bugs!! I’ve got a black car and they show up very clearly so I’ve tried a number of options in the spray coating/ ceramic realm none of which have made much of a difference. My latest approach is to focus on the bug remover sprays and see what makes them come off the easiest.
Honestly the easiest "bug remover" I ever used, and still do on older paint, is peroxide.
I could never really figure out if it would create any long term paint issues, therefore I have not done it on my Lex or our family vehicle.
But all my other vehicles I spray with basic dollar store peroxide with a spray nozzle on it, and they literally dissolve before your eyes! IPA used to be mu go to, but peroxide works better yet. I let it soak for for just a minute, if even that long, then microfiber, then some type of spray detailer that you fancy to bring the shine gloss back. I did this for years on my M3 and it has not had an affect on the paint, that i can see with the naked eye anyway.
 
I love Adams products, Currently have their ceramic graphene coating on my windshield instead of rain-X.
I think they have an awesome iron remover as well, it works great.

I got in some CQ.UK 3.0 from CARPRO, as recommended above and seen in other recommendations. I will try this for now and see how it works.
I have used CQ UK 3.0, great product. But for what you want, you can probably get better results from sticking with Griots 3 and 1 Ceramic and just boost it by reapplying every 2 months. Less work and less cost. I haven't found the CQ UK 3.0 to do anything special against bug splatter.
 
I have used CQ UK 3.0, great product. But for what you want, you can probably get better results from sticking with Griots 3 and 1 Ceramic and just boost it by reapplying every 2 months. Less work and less cost. I haven't found the CQ UK 3.0 to do anything special against bug splatter.
Well, I can now say from experience over the last few days that the CQ UK 3.0 is INDEED working better than the GRIOTs but should not really be a comparison. However, the CQ is not working anywhere near as well as it should be. It's simply not cutting it.... Yes, I did indeed prep the surfaces properly but the paint seems to be very soft on the Lexus. Thick, but soft.

The CQ was not an easy application in comparison, it flashes (or does not flash) really weird, due to that fact it is incredibly difficult to level on horizontal surfaces. I had to essentially work the hood level with detailing products to get the finish right. Now I am pretty much just frustrated that this is on my car.... Not necessarily due to the waste of money, its about the time for me.

I do believe the GRIOTs 3in1 does repel water better than the CQ UK 3.0, but again I'm not concerned about beading I can achieve that millions of ways, its about the bugs..
 
Well, I can now say from experience over the last few days that the CQ UK 3.0 is INDEED working better than the GRIOTs but should not really be a comparison. However, the CQ is not working anywhere near as well as it should be. It's simply not cutting it.... Yes, I did indeed prep the surfaces properly but the paint seems to be very soft on the Lexus. Thick, but soft.

The CQ was not an easy application in comparison, it flashes (or does not flash) really weird, due to that fact it is incredibly difficult to level on horizontal surfaces. I had to essentially work the hood level with detailing products to get the finish right. Now I am pretty much just frustrated that this is on my car.... Not necessarily due to the waste of money, its about the time for me.

I do believe the GRIOTs 3in1 does repel water better than the CQ UK 3.0, but again I'm not concerned about beading I can achieve that millions of ways, its about the bugs..
Wait a few weeks or couple months...your opinion may change.
 
Wait a few weeks or couple months...your opinion may change.
I am not sure what you're implying, or what you mean by that.
I would assume the coating is at its best shortly after application or final cure, or maybe after its first spray down with water... Are you saying the coating will continue to harden or cure in some way?

I must also add that my application was done in a 70 degree (freedom units) environment with 65-70% humidity, indoors. The car did not see full sun until the next day, FWIW. I know that certain epoxies, catalysts, and some adhesives that are incredibly dependent on a certain humidity threshold.

I thought about using that wet shine stuff, I forget what its called but it was being plugged on Power Block years back as a polymer based coating derived from the aerospace industry that you apply while the vehicle is wet. The host even mentioned using it on his natural stone counter tops.
 
I am not sure what you're implying, or what you mean by that.
I would assume the coating is at its best shortly after application or final cure, or maybe after its first spray down with water... Are you saying the coating will continue to harden or cure in some way?

I must also add that my application was done in a 70 degree (freedom units) environment with 65-70% humidity, indoors. The car did not see full sun until the next day, FWIW. I know that certain epoxies, catalysts, and some adhesives that are incredibly dependent on a certain humidity threshold.

I thought about using that wet shine stuff, I forget what its called but it was being plugged on Power Block years back as a polymer based coating derived from the aerospace industry that you apply while the vehicle is wet. The host even mentioned using it on his natural stone counter tops.
I think it may change over the course of a few weeks or a couple months. I took my car on a three day trip (about three months post application) to rural eastern part of my state and I did not find it particularly easier to clean off all the bugs I accumulated. This car is a "garage queen" and is never parked outside, except on a trip like this.

I'll be curious about your long term impressions. I'm getting due to prep and reapply the CQ UK 3.0 and have a box sitting on the shelf...just haven't gotten around to it. I may just have my detailer do it...he's really better at the prep and did it last time for me.
 
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