Alignment Woes

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With a little over 125K miles on my vehicle, I started to notice some play in the front suspension so I replaced the lower ball joints, upper control arms, and inner and outer tie rod ends.

The next day I took it in to get aligned at a local tire shop that does great work on tires, but tends to be very busy.

The first try, they were close, but the steering wheel was not centered when driving straight. If you imagine the steering wheel as a clock, then it needed about a 3 minute correction to the left, as the steering kept wanting to wander to the right while driving (take note of this). Also, I noticed later in the day that the camber on the front wheels was radically different. The passenger side was sticking out while the driver side was sticking in.

I went back in yesterday and told them about my observations and they redid the work. I watched the tech use what I believe was the Hunter DSP series alignment rack and make adjustments to the camber and tie rods. He test drove it a few times and they finally gave me back the keys and said the tire was to blame as it was the source of the pulling. They were able to "prove" this by saying they swapped the front tires and now it was pulling to the left. When I got in and drove, what they told me held true, although fortunately the camber was corrected this time. They suggested I rotate the front tires to the back and that the issue would resolve itself in time. I got home and did exactly this. Front tires went to the back, the backs came up to the front. Still having wandering issues.. it pulls to the left.

Well, last night I had to run to the store and when I parked, I made sure the steering wheel was dead centered. I got out and looked at the wheels and it now appears that the toe on both wheels is incorrect. With the steering wheel centered, it appears that the toe on both wheels is slightly to the driver's left. I now have to set the steering wheel about 3 minutes to the right in order to go straight.

The alignment cost $65 and comes with a 12 month warranty. Should I keep trying with these guys or go pay again to have a different shop try at it? You'd think that the Hunter alignment rack would take a lot of noise out of the equation, but I wonder if this one of those cases where experience and a sharp eye can get the vehicle driving straight again.
 
Alignments are only as good as the guy doing it. No machine will make up for a poorly trained/inexperienced tech.

At $65/alignment I am guessing a chain?
 
If it comes with a warranty I would keep trying until they get it up to your specs. If you start getting flack from them then I would consider a new shop.
 
Is it possible that the worn ball joints caused some uneven tire wear?? If so, that might explain the pulling.

Also, parking lots are not intended to be level; it would be very tough to catch a mistake in alignment without a tape measure and a paint marker. If you are concerned about the alignment, then take it to another shop for a free inspection. They should give you a print out showing what is where.
 
Sorry the car is a 2WD 2002 F150. The old balljoints weren't terribly worn, and the tire wear was always very even.

The alignment was done at a Hibdon Tires Plus.
 
You can't tell toe in/out by looking.
Why?
Having the steering wheel straight may be inducing a slight turn.
So the sides WILL look in or out.
Get printouts of the settings.
When things are set right, THEN set the steering wheel straight by going in on one side, and out on the other the exact same amount.
 
Sorry for the late response. Here are scans of the alignment results from both attempts.

alignment1.png




alignment2.png
 
It's odd that the rear toe in changed .

Anyways, when you drive down a road with no crown, is the steering wheel exactly centered? Is it of one way or the other a bit? This can be fixed easily, and should have been done after the alignment test drive.
Are there handling/pulling problems?
 
Long story short the steering wheel is locked in place and the level is "eyeballed" to center. I sit as far back from the wheel as I can and wiggle the wheel from side to side a few time s to even it out.
Two things about this. the system may have some play in it therefore what is level at the wheel may not be when everything is set at the tierods due to the play and is very hard to get right.
Also on bigger vehicles like your truck the rack may not be long enough to push the truck back than roll it forward to compensate the targets. You will need to jack the axles off the ramp and spin the wheels by hand. This step is usually cheated my just bending the target back by hand then bending it forward again to trick the computer. This will leave the alignment off in most cases. Or just raise the front axle and not the rear. I almost alway get a crooked wheel when doing these trucks!
Also tire pressures need to be set cause a low tire will throw the toe out. or a uneven rack.
UGH, way too many different things can happen to give a straight answer.
The print out means almost nothing to me cause I have no idea how they set the alignment up to begin with. The numbers mean nothing really.
 
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
It's odd that the rear toe in changed .

Anyways, when you drive down a road with no crown, is the steering wheel exactly centered? Is it of one way or the other a bit? This can be fixed easily, and should have been done after the alignment test drive.
Are there handling/pulling problems?



On a straight road, I have to clock the wheel slightly off center to drive straight.

If I set the wheel to what I perceive is straight/center, then the truck wanders off to the side.

I believe the camber and caster are OK, but they set the toe incorrectly in relation to the steering wheel for the reasons that brelandt stated.

I got a recommendation from a coworker about a guy who is very good at doing alignments, and actually works at a different Hibdon Tire in this area. I am going to see if he can take a look at my setup since the cost would be covered by the 12mo warranty that came with the initial alignment cost.

Regarding the scans I posted, I wonder if there is some inherent slop in the alignment rack that explains how the rear numbers were different between the sessions.
 
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To fix the steering wheel position yourself, it is rather easy.
Esp since the parts were just loosened.
Simply carefully mark the outer tie rod ends and turn one in 1/8 turn, and the other out 1/8 turn [lengthen one, shorten the other - or visa versa].
You will not affect the toe, but will center the S wheel!
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I don't know about trucks, but if this were a car I would check the steering rack bushings.

Yes, when this happens to a truck with a gearbox, either the P/S gearbox is developing slack, or the steering shaft is getting weak. When the steering shaft gets weak, it gets twisted before it starts twisting the P/S gearbox.
 
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