Air Compressor Problem

[jackkpts]

My church has a Porter Cable 25 gallon air compressor as a part of it's sprinkler system. We have been having problems with it blowing the safety valve due the pressure switch not shutting off at 115. In diagnosing the problem, I noticed that there is oil in the cover of the pressure switch. How would oil get into the pressure switch and what can be done to correct this, if possible?

I am the new caretaker at my church. The compressor is 12 years old and has never had the oil or air filter changed or the tank drained. I changed the oil and air filter last week. The oil was very thick and very black. When I opened the drain valve, nothing would drain - water or any remaining air.

In the past month, the compressor has run for possibly hours non stop three times. I am concerned about spending $75 for a new pressure switch when there could be ring issues, possibly rusted tank, and other issues due to the lack of maintenance over the years. However, a new compressor of this size is $500 - $600. Any thoughts/suggestions/recommendations? Thanks.

 

[Sawdusted]

I wold open up the cover of the pressure cut off switch to see if the cut off pressures adjustable. Most of them are. See if you can dial it down a notch. If the tank is building pressure, you should not have to worry about the pistons and rings. I may also do another oil change just to clean out the crud you may not have gotten out in the first oil change.

As far as draining the tank, I would remove the drain cock and poke a something through the hole to clear it out. Then put on a nice ball valve so that you can drain it easily the next time round.

 

[JimPghPA]

Hold off on changing any plumbing such as putting on a new ball valve, unless you are sure that there is enough metal left to attach that new valve to. Often an old rusted set-up will not have enough good metal left to allow you to remove one threaded item and then install another. There is a decent chance that if you do mess with it the tank will be too rusted to allow you to install a new valve.

 

[Sawdusted]

All the compressor tank I have seen have reinforced areas where the valve mounts to the tank. Usually a minimum of 5/16 to 3/8" thick. I have not had a problems installing a new ball valve in any tank.

You may need to chase the threads with a tap but it can be done fairly easily.

 

[JC1]

As mentioned, you need to remove the drain cock and shove a screwdriver up there to free up the crud. I'm sure you're going to get lots of rusty water that might look like gravy.


Look at this link for details.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fu3yruEPQY

Regards, JC.