Advice for removing an anode needed

Kira

Kira

Joined
Aug 19, 2010
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Location
Champlain/Hudson Valley
We've a Rheem 30-gallon electric water heater.
The sulphury odor we're experiencing might be caused by a consumed anode. The heater is 14 years old.

Even with a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a counter-hold, we can't get the thing to unscrew.
The hex head is 1 1/16" and the thread into the tank is 3/4NPT.
I'm going to fetch my corded impact wrench.

Does anyone here know of any trick to removing these things, or is plain brute strength what it takes?

Also, with only 20" headroom, a jointed or flexible replacement seems necessary. Such flexible anodes were mentioned in videos.

All input is welcome. This includes comments regarding brand of anode and any flexible anode caveats.

I'm sure not as brute as I used to be.
 
You may break the tank before you get it loose. I would have it drained and disconnected.

Like @Pablo said, pipe wrench plus an extendo-matic 2000 (a section of 2" steel pipe to slide over the pipe wrench handle). I feel a trip to the plumbing supply house in your future...
 
I used a Cordless impact on mine. Took it out without incident. Mine also didn’t have enough room (height-wise) to remove it, but since my water heater is in a garage closet, I just popped a 2 inch hole in the closet ceiling (into the attic) and raised the rod out that way. Replaced it in the same way.
 
Kira said:
Does anyone here know of any trick to removing these things, or is plain brute strength what it takes?
Click to expand...
I'll add another comment of the same as others - impact wrench. When I replaced our previous WH, I removed the anode rod just to see what it looked like and I used my impact. Worked great.
Kira said:
Also, with only 20" headroom, a jointed or flexible replacement seems necessary. Such flexible anodes were mentioned in videos.
Click to expand...
I probably have more than 20" headroom, but certainly not 40-44" (typical length, as I recall), so when I need to replace ours, I'll have a sawz-all to cut it in pieces as I remove it and will need to use a flexible one as well.
 
Geekhead said:
I suspect that tank will leak before the anode needs replacing again. The typical life for the tank is about 15 years
Click to expand...
They last longer when you replace the $30 anode rod when it needs it but that requires looking at it every year or two...

My State brand water heater thoughtfully has the anode rod attached under the hot outlet on a special fitting making the job even more entertaining.

1778799754010.webp
 
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Turn off the cold water line in. Set temp on tank to pilot. Drain a couple gallons out. Remove the anode with a battery powered impact wrench. Install the new rod. Open a hot water tap upstairs and open the cold water line to refill.

Consider a powered anode rod. They have a titanium rod that only extends about a foot into the water. You’ll never have to replace the anode rod again. I installed a Corro-Protec. Works great.
https://a.co/d/015NNbuT
 
At 14 yrs old I'd replace the tank as at it's age the pins out of the grenade.
Tank wall is not that thick and will deform around anode fitting with serious torque on it.
Dealt with same issues doing service calls changing electric heating elements on service contract calls hoping the tight ones would come out and go back in with no damage / leaks. Co. didn't do anodes, just heating elements.
 
I can't give you any advice, but I will wish you luck. I wanted to do this on a brand new heater and with all the foam and sheet metal covering the access, I decided not to.
 
From my experience, you might too late if you have sulfur smell. My sister smelled sulfur so I replaced the anode and sanitized her tank. She said it worked for a month or so then returned so they replaced it and that corrected it.

I check/replace anodes at my house and rentals every 6 yrs (adjust based on water conditions). Anodes are available in two styles; one type has a hex head threaded into the top of the tank, the other type is connected to the hot water outlet. If it is the hex head type, I just abandon it in place and install a new anode connected to the hot water outlet. Since you have low headroom, a flexible type. Also, magnesium is not dependant by brand, I just order the least expensive/longest/largest diameter anode available and cut it with a hacksaw it if is too long for the application.
 
You need an impact wrench. You would need a powerful person to keep the tank in place while you use a long breaker bar. You would likely damage the copper piping.
 
14 year old water heater?

I would get a new anode with a new water heater wrapped around it - and make the anode replacement an every 2 years kind of thing.
 
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considering the age of the water heater, I would not bother wrenching on it. Get a new water heater, and install a powdered anode rod right from the start.
 
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