Acura 3.0CL IAC valve -- round two.

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The CEL in a friend's 1997 Acura CL (with the J30 V6) came on a while ago, and checking with my scanguage showed DTC P0505 - Idle Air Control malfunction. I cleared the code but a couple of days later it came back on.

A couple weeks ago we took the IAC valve off and cleaned it. It was *really* dirty. We'd disconnected the battery while doing the job and when we were finished I verified no DTCs were showing with everything hooked back up.

Unfortunately, a couple days later the light came back on. I haven't been able to verify the code is the same because something has since happened to the wiring on the car and the radio, lighter, and OBD2 port are powerless (which is really a different issue -- and I'm not trying to fix that one) but it's most likely the same code because it's still accompanied by periodic low/rough idle as it was before we cleaned the IAC valve.

He's going to get the electrical issue sorted out with his mechanic, but I'd like to help him get the IAC problem fixed this weekend if possible. At this point I can think of a few possibilities:

1) The IAC valve is bad and needs to be replaced.
2) The problem is actually vacuum leaks, or the TB gasket didn't go back on as well as we thought it did when reassembling the first time around (I doubt this because it seems like there would be surging/high idle, not low idle, right?).
3) The problem is in the circuit, but not the valve.
4) The problem is something else that I don't understand.

I'd like to be fairly confident before I recommend that he spends $130-$150 on a part. Is it likely that the valve is suffering mechanical or electrical failure? Anything else I should try or have him try?

If the fix has to wait a couple weeks, are there any potential problems? The car won't stall out because the valve can never fully close (by design) so I think all that will really happen even if it fails completely is high idle will suck and it'll idle low.
 
From the Acura service manual:

PO505 Diagnostics:

(This is a summary of what it says)

1. Disconnect the IAC valve connector while the engine is running (make sure engine is fully warmed up)

2. Does the engine speed drop or the engine stall?
If yes - Adjust the idle speed (screw on top of the throttle body) If the screw won't turn, clean out all the ports on the throttle body.
If no - replace the IAC valve

And that's about all it says.

BTW don't take the car to a mechanic for the Radio/cig lighter/OBD port not working. It's just a blown fuse, usually caused by a faulty cig lighter that shorts itself out. The cig lighters on those would go bad all the time. If your buddy doesn't use it, just pull off the trim panel and pull the plug to it. If he does, you're gonna need a new one.
 
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The ECU continuously monitors the IAC valve functionality by sending a signal to the stepper motor, and then reads the position it maintains. If the position of the valve does not tally with what the ECU expects after x number of tries, then it flags the malfunction code.

In your case, it's likely the IAC itself is faulty (more than likely the stepper motor itself).
 
Thanks, I'll run the diagnostic steps on the car before we order the new valve. Maybe we can try it tonight.

Regarding the lighter port -- which fuse would it be? I pulled the fuse for the radio last night (from the driver kickpanel fuse box) and it looked fine, although I didn't have my multimeter with me to test it. I'll test that fuse tonight if I can get to the car. I didn't see anything on the fuse label referencing the lighter or the OBD port but I assume it's the radio one, right?
 
Wow, thanks! When I saw the car yesterday I didn't look in the underhood box, expected the interior components to be covered by cabin fuses. I'll test all of these and see if I can find any other mentions of fuses that might control all three components. Hopefully it is the lighter itself that's bad and not some wiring buried deep in the dash.

It turns out I may not get to see the car again until this weekend. Since I want to do the diagnostics before removing the IACV again it looks like that repair may have to wait a week and a half or so.
 
Yes, I did a web search before posting and found some information that way. But you never know what extremely helpful extra information you're going to get when you post a question here vs just relying on misc information from other forums.

Case in point the information about the cig lighter being a common problem on these cars.
 
Thanks, AcuraTech!

The diagnostic you posted does seem to indicate the IAC valve is bad. We'll be ordering one and replacing it sometime in the next couple weeks.

And regarding the lighter, one of the underhood fuses was indeed blown. We replaced that, took out the lighter, and capped off the wired with electrical tape. That should do for now. Not sure what's wrong with it, since it looks like a pretty simple assembly but maybe something came loose and shorted out.

Just wanted to close this out and say thanks!
 
Vacuum leaks of any kind make it tough for the MAF sensor to read right. That means the PCV system ,any lines, and the intake.
Before getting the IAC motor, try a good cleaning of the throttle body bore and plate with solvent and a rag.
Open the throttle and and clean both sides real well, and where is seats.
This will help anyways, if it does not fix the idle problem.
 
I already cleaned out the TB when we cleaned the IAC valve the first time. Didn't get it quite as squeaky clean as I would've liked because it was still partially on the car but did enough that it should've made a difference. Also sprayed TB cleaner around some of the vacuum hoses in the area and didn't detect any leaks (not that that means for sure there aren't any...).
 
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