A Learning Experience (or I Did Something Stupid).

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I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my new used motorhome last week. Tonight I thought I would go out and hook up the wires for the light. I got the bright idea of using a needle to stick a likely wire so I could hook up a tester to see if it had power.

Thing were pretty confusing under the dash but I did see one white wire and though, "ah, white probably is for the lights." Stuck it and the tester gave no voltage. So I pulled the needle out. Immediately I heard a hissing sound. I grabbed the "wire" where I had stuck it and the hissing stopped. I immediately remembered that vacuum was involved in swinging doors to open and shut the heater and air conditioner ducting, and figured I had stuck one of them (it leads up the the heater/air con controls area). But why was it pressurized when the key was off.

I got some Household Goop out and coated the "wire" (now known to be a tube, no wonder it was so hard to stick and a bit stiffer than a wire should be). I am letting it dry overnight and will fire it up in the morning. My hope is that it will recharge its pressure when the engine is turned on, but if not, then I don't know what to do next. Will try the heater, defrost, air con, etc tomorrow am and hope it all works. By the time I read any responses I will know what happens. Hopefully I got the area covered (put Goop along about 1.5 inches of the tube).

Arrrrrghhhh!
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Needless to say, the gauge lamp is not hooked up, but I will just route longer wires all the way from the fuse box and not poke anymore "wires."
 
You a right, you hit the vacuum line that controls the vents. There is a vacuum canister that retains vacuum. When you poked a hole in the line, you purged out the remaining vacuum.

If your goop doesn’t work, just cut the line and use a small 1 inch piece of rubber hose as a coupler to join the two together.
 
When I was 16 I was installing new gauges in my first ride, a 1971 GMC truck. I was looking for a hot wire to light the gauges and I saw a "wire" running to the shift indicator light on the column. I cut it (no scotchlocks back then) to splice in my gauge lights and I discoved my "wire" was a fiberoptic cable from the instrument cluster to my column indicator. I owned that truck for 6 more years and never did get that shift indicator light working again.
 
All vacuum hose used to be rubber. As oil stain stated, use a short piece to splice hose after you cut it at puncture. Stuff's like .50 ft. at parts store.

Bob
 
I always loved Fords that had "bump tubing" for vaccum plumbing. In extrusion circles bump tubing has one diameter at one end and a different diameter at the other. It uses a variable take off during the extrusion process. Ford engineers must have also had their hands into variable take off machines. Luckily, NAPA has every plastic adapter you can name.
 
quote:

Originally posted by punisher:
I owned that truck for 6 more years and never did get that shift indicator light working again.

Actually, you did your self a favor. Factory set shift lights are for economy. It would have you shifting way too soon for any kind of fun driving.

Well my motorhome air, defrost, heat, etc worked fine this am and when I shut it off after a 21 mile drive, there was no hiss of vacuum bleed. Duct tape would be overkill in this case because Goop is such great stuff. Goop is my duct tape (yes I do still have duct tape though).
 
Look for a wire that is after the rheostat that controls the brightness of the dash lights. Hook your gauges to that, so when you dim your dash lights, then the lights on the gauges will dim as well.
 
JetSnake, I am expanding the instrument panel lights fuse with a kit from AutoZone that adds a circuit to a single fuse slot. This rheostat is before this fuse because I put the lamp wire on it and ground and got the lamp to dim with the brightness control. That and the green bulb cover and it should look like a factory gauge installation.

Thanks all.
 
A mechanical gauge in the motorhome?

You're braver than me. I've seen what happens when the sender cuts loose on the wrong side of the dash, whew boy!

Should I have assumed you meant a quality electrical gauge with engine-mount sensor?
 
Yes indeed, a mechanical gauge. I have 3/8" ID clear PVC tubing over the 1/8" nylon line. The tubing is hose clamped to the compression nut on the back of the gauge and runs through the floor and to the back of the engine compartment. From there the nylon line is unprotected. If a leak springs it should all go out on the engine and ground. Oh yeah, had to special order a 12' nylon line kit. Normally the gauges come with a 6' line. Autometer had the kit. Took about 10' of line to install.

Now in my pickup truck the line is totally unprotected.
 
I have the sender for the dummy dashboard gauge that I can always reinstall in a pinch.

I did not like the electrical gauge because mechanical gauges are more responsive. Also, I think the mechanical gauge is easier to install (KISS).
 
Well, considering the battery costs little more than a tank of fuel, there is no reason to drive it to it's last legs.
 
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