A/C question?

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We all know that leaving the A/C on Recirculate mode (no outside air into cabin) creates much less condensation on the evap and therefore not seeing nearly as much water on the ground compared to the non-recirculate mode. Does either mode extend the life of the evaperator at all?
 
This really does not answer your question about extending life of the condenser, but I have a good way never to have stinky AC.
I just turn off the AC and put it on vent a minute or two before I shut off the car. Never had a mold or stink problem with the AC.
 
quote:

Originally posted by jeepzj:
What does turning the A/C off but leaving the blower on do?

Allows warmer air in the ducting such that it remains dry, and condensation doesn't build up and create stinky mold. I do the same thing myself.
 
quote:

Originally posted by jeepzj:
We all know that leaving the A/C on Recirculate mode (no outside air into cabin) creates much less condensation on the evap and therefore not seeing nearly as much water on the ground compared to the non-recirculate mode. Does either mode extend the life of the evaperator at all?

no, not really as long as the drain isn't plugged up. In which case it still wouldn't matter enough to make a difference.
 
I've never seen or heard of an evaporator going south because of external moisture.
Use whatever venting is more comfortable/suitable for you.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mechtech:
I've never seen or heard of an evaporator going south because of external moisture.
Use whatever venting is more comfortable/suitable for you.


My original evap lasted 7 years before I had to replace it due to a leak. What actually goes bad on the evap? Do the tubes rust and eventually crack. Is it the elbows? If my new evap, which was installed a little over a year ago by the dealership under warranty, lasts as long as the original I'll be happy. Just thought that the extra moisture on the evap would cause it to rust out faster.
 
There's no steel to rust, it's all aluminum and copper (or just all aluminum).

failures are more normally caused by:

-cracks at crimped joints due to repeated material expansion/contraction;

-poor fabrication (bad solder/crimp, etc) made worse by vibration

-dissimilar metals' thermal expansion differences at joints.

-if soldered, failure to completely remove the acid flux after assembly

my fear with replacing a bad coil with another under warranty is that likely the problem that caused the 1st to go bad exists in the new one. Here an aftermarket one may perform better as it likely used a different design and mfg site.

Of course, you may just trade one set of problems for another....so it's a crapshoot...
 
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