a/c in 97 geo
- Thread starter lucerne06
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R134 is what you need. Go get one of those little cans with stop-leak in it from a parts store, connect it to your Low-Side port and run your A/C on High and let it suck it in.
I say the can with the stop-leak stuff in it because if you are low most likely you have a slow leak.
I say the can with the stop-leak stuff in it because if you are low most likely you have a slow leak.
It uses R134a and unless you recover whats in it you have no idea as to how much to add.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It uses R134a and unless you recover whats in it you have no idea as to how much to add.
That is not true, the little can will come with a pressure gauge and if you know the ambient temperature you can look up how much pressure you should have before charging the vehicle if it was charged fully. Compare this to what the vehicle is reading and then know what pressure to charge it to with the little can.
What most people do is run the A/C on high for a couple of minutes and see what air temperature they can achieve, then hook up the can and watch the temperature in the center vents until it falls to around 40-45F. Then stop charging. It's not accurate but it works 90% of the time when you don't know how to calculate the PSI vs temperature for 134 based on the system specs.
Also these little cans have just enough pressure in them that your vehicle will have more pressure on the low side when fully charged in most cases so overcharging is not a possibility in most cases.
It uses R134a and unless you recover whats in it you have no idea as to how much to add.
That is not true, the little can will come with a pressure gauge and if you know the ambient temperature you can look up how much pressure you should have before charging the vehicle if it was charged fully. Compare this to what the vehicle is reading and then know what pressure to charge it to with the little can.
What most people do is run the A/C on high for a couple of minutes and see what air temperature they can achieve, then hook up the can and watch the temperature in the center vents until it falls to around 40-45F. Then stop charging. It's not accurate but it works 90% of the time when you don't know how to calculate the PSI vs temperature for 134 based on the system specs.
Also these little cans have just enough pressure in them that your vehicle will have more pressure on the low side when fully charged in most cases so overcharging is not a possibility in most cases.
Originally Posted By: lucerne06
In the 13 years I owned the car, i never had to touch it. always blew ice cold. but then again it's 100 degees here for the past 3 days.
Still use a stop-leak can of refrigerant anyways... It has additive in it that will help revitalize seals which are probably hardened after 13 years and causing your minor loss.
In the 13 years I owned the car, i never had to touch it. always blew ice cold. but then again it's 100 degees here for the past 3 days.
Still use a stop-leak can of refrigerant anyways... It has additive in it that will help revitalize seals which are probably hardened after 13 years and causing your minor loss.
If I do use a refrigerent with stop leak can this happen???
The problem is, moisture is often present inside the A/C system, especially a system that’s been improperly serviced. Some sealers include a desiccant to absorb and hold moisture in suspension, but if the stop-leak finds moisture in the orifice tube, the stop-leak will do its thing and clog the tube.
The problem is, moisture is often present inside the A/C system, especially a system that’s been improperly serviced. Some sealers include a desiccant to absorb and hold moisture in suspension, but if the stop-leak finds moisture in the orifice tube, the stop-leak will do its thing and clog the tube.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It uses R134a and unless you recover whats in it you have no idea as to how much to add.
That is not true, the little can will come with a pressure gauge and if you know the ambient temperature you can look up how much pressure you should have before charging the vehicle if it was charged fully. Compare this to what the vehicle is reading and then know what pressure to charge it to with the little can.
What most people do is run the A/C on high for a couple of minutes and see what air temperature they can achieve, then hook up the can and watch the temperature in the center vents until it falls to around 40-45F. Then stop charging. It's not accurate but it works 90% of the time when you don't know how to calculate the PSI vs temperature for 134 based on the system specs.
Also these little cans have just enough pressure in them that your vehicle will have more pressure on the low side when fully charged in most cases so overcharging is not a possibility in most cases.
I'm going to respectfully disagree with you here. W/o a high side guage the low side guage is useless. He originally asked how much he needed to put in the system. There is no way to know w/o starting with a completly empty system. Might be 3oz, 5oz or more.
With a high side guage I can figure ambient temp x 2.2-2.5 to get the proper high side psi and correct charge amount.
As for adding stop leak. go ahead but don't bring the car to me later on because the stop leak will harden in the valves in my AC machine and cost me over $1000 to get it fixed. If my identifier shows stop leak I'll have to decline working on tha car.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It uses R134a and unless you recover whats in it you have no idea as to how much to add.
That is not true, the little can will come with a pressure gauge and if you know the ambient temperature you can look up how much pressure you should have before charging the vehicle if it was charged fully. Compare this to what the vehicle is reading and then know what pressure to charge it to with the little can.
What most people do is run the A/C on high for a couple of minutes and see what air temperature they can achieve, then hook up the can and watch the temperature in the center vents until it falls to around 40-45F. Then stop charging. It's not accurate but it works 90% of the time when you don't know how to calculate the PSI vs temperature for 134 based on the system specs.
Also these little cans have just enough pressure in them that your vehicle will have more pressure on the low side when fully charged in most cases so overcharging is not a possibility in most cases.
I'm going to respectfully disagree with you here. W/o a high side guage the low side guage is useless. He originally asked how much he needed to put in the system. There is no way to know w/o starting with a completly empty system. Might be 3oz, 5oz or more.
With a high side guage I can figure ambient temp x 2.2-2.5 to get the proper high side psi and correct charge amount.
As for adding stop leak. go ahead but don't bring the car to me later on because the stop leak will harden in the valves in my AC machine and cost me over $1000 to get it fixed. If my identifier shows stop leak I'll have to decline working on tha car.
My advise is to get some R134 that has the dye in it. Get the goofy goggles that let you see the dye (same idea as those pens that you can only see under black light - like in the movie Gone in 60 Seconds when they find the list of cars on the wall). The dye and goggles are pretty inexpensive and can be gotten at most auto parts stores.
Then look for leaks to see if any of the dye has come out of the system, and bingo, you have your leak location(s). Then get the leak(s) fixed properly.
If the AC isn't performing normally (especially once the temps go back down to reasonable levels - 90 degrees or less), and you don't see any dye that has come out, you might need a pressure test in order to determine the leak location(s) if in fact you do have a leak(s).
Then look for leaks to see if any of the dye has come out of the system, and bingo, you have your leak location(s). Then get the leak(s) fixed properly.
If the AC isn't performing normally (especially once the temps go back down to reasonable levels - 90 degrees or less), and you don't see any dye that has come out, you might need a pressure test in order to determine the leak location(s) if in fact you do have a leak(s).
He said he hasn't had any problems for 13 years and now it's just a bit warm. That is a pretty good idea that it's just normal seepage from a pressurized system.
I wouldn't waste the money on the dye/goggles etc. JMO.
If he was loosing his refrigerant every season then I would agree, but this is the result of 13 years and the system isn't empty just a little low from the symptoms he is describing.
I wouldn't waste the money on the dye/goggles etc. JMO.
If he was loosing his refrigerant every season then I would agree, but this is the result of 13 years and the system isn't empty just a little low from the symptoms he is describing.
Low side only gauges can be VERY useful.
You can check static pressure of both sides, and running pressure of the low side. See how it cycles and at what pressure.
Let's say the average guy puts the gauge on and sees it is 30 lbs STATIC [after rest and at 75ish ambient temps], and the system won't turn on. He knows it needs sauce.
Or the system turns on and the compressor engages, but the low side reads 20. Again, more sauce is needed.
Maybe the low pressure is too high - this again can be determined with a low only gauge.
You can check static pressure of both sides, and running pressure of the low side. See how it cycles and at what pressure.
Let's say the average guy puts the gauge on and sees it is 30 lbs STATIC [after rest and at 75ish ambient temps], and the system won't turn on. He knows it needs sauce.
Or the system turns on and the compressor engages, but the low side reads 20. Again, more sauce is needed.
Maybe the low pressure is too high - this again can be determined with a low only gauge.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Low side only gauges can be VERY useful.
You can check static pressure of both sides, and running pressure of the low side. See how it cycles and at what pressure.
Let's say the average guy puts the gauge on and sees it is 30 lbs STATIC [after rest and at 75ish ambient temps], and the system won't turn on. He knows it needs sauce.
Or the system turns on and the compressor engages, but the low side reads 20. Again, more sauce is needed.
Maybe the low pressure is too high - this again can be determined with a low only gauge.
But the average consumer has no idea as to what pressures should be. They just keep slamming cans and watching the low side guage. It may read 40psi but the head pressure might be dangerously high.
Low side only gauges can be VERY useful.
You can check static pressure of both sides, and running pressure of the low side. See how it cycles and at what pressure.
Let's say the average guy puts the gauge on and sees it is 30 lbs STATIC [after rest and at 75ish ambient temps], and the system won't turn on. He knows it needs sauce.
Or the system turns on and the compressor engages, but the low side reads 20. Again, more sauce is needed.
Maybe the low pressure is too high - this again can be determined with a low only gauge.
But the average consumer has no idea as to what pressures should be. They just keep slamming cans and watching the low side guage. It may read 40psi but the head pressure might be dangerously high.
Meh, the car will blow a seal somewhere if the pressure gets too high... Just put a can in a working system and watch the vent temperature drop.
That's assuming the compressor is cycling.
That's assuming the compressor is cycling.
Does a '97 Prizm still have a sight glass on the receiver/drier? If so, check for anything more than the occasional bubble in it while operating as well.
I would skip the leak sealer no matter what. Detection dyes are fine if not added in excess.
I would skip the leak sealer no matter what. Detection dyes are fine if not added in excess.
I recharged my 94 Prizm's A/C and it blows cold air now, colder than I have ever felt in a car.I used the synthetic r134a can with the pressure gauge (Arctic Freeze, 15-16 lbs)One can was more than enough.Some left in the can.If you need detailed explanation, let me know.I thought it would be a difficult task but it turned out to be very easy one.It took me 5 minutes or so to recharge it.
Know the value of your Prizm, appreciate it, they do not make cars like that anymore.
Know the value of your Prizm, appreciate it, they do not make cars like that anymore.
just to let everyone know who helped out, the car took 12oz exactly of plain ole 134a from target, 7.37cents. I just hooked it up to the low side and watched the sight glass , when the bubbles stopped , so did I, but the can was just starting to get warm at that point and it had used all 120z of 134a. so again thanks and the A/C is ICE COLD again.even if i overfilled it an once or two, I fiqured it would not hurt anything.
Good to hear!
Originally Posted By: lucerne06
just to let everyone know who helped out, the car took 12oz exactly of plain ole 134a from target, 7.37cents. I just hooked it up to the low side and watched the sight glass , when the bubbles stopped , so did I, but the can was just starting to get warm at that point and it had used all 120z of 134a. so again thanks and the A/C is ICE COLD again.even if i overfilled it an once or two, I fiqured it would not hurt anything.
I'm curious, what was the pressure showing on the gauge before and after you filled up the system? Also what was the approximate temp out around the car?
just to let everyone know who helped out, the car took 12oz exactly of plain ole 134a from target, 7.37cents. I just hooked it up to the low side and watched the sight glass , when the bubbles stopped , so did I, but the can was just starting to get warm at that point and it had used all 120z of 134a. so again thanks and the A/C is ICE COLD again.even if i overfilled it an once or two, I fiqured it would not hurt anything.
I'm curious, what was the pressure showing on the gauge before and after you filled up the system? Also what was the approximate temp out around the car?
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