98 Volvo: Weak/Failing Battery?

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Also keep in mind is that there are a ton of batteries in the Interstate website, but the places you buy one only carry a subset. Yes you can order one, but it will cost more and take some time. I found that out when buying one for my Bobcat.

And remember to get the CCA specified in the owners manual or on the battery if original. More is not better. Try to get it close, but move up not down in CCA.
 
I just finished the B+ cable job on my daughter's 1999 S70. I took the existing cable loose on both ends, hit it with a generous helping of flux and mini torch, then solder. I also added an 8 gauge helper wire with gold-plated terminal on one end and copper at the battery. Now I've got to do something with her ABS module. I'm considering doing a heat treatment that my neighbor has used to save several Xboxes.
 
Originally Posted By: rainman49
. . . Now I've got to do something with her ABS module. I'm considering doing a heat treatment that my neighbor has used to save several Xboxes.


There are a couple of shops that do the ABS control module repair/upgrade for about $150. Legions of 850 owners (including us) have had to have it done. They've got it down to a perfected science, so I can strongly recommend just sending it out to guarantee a good repair.

It's a capacitor issue, as some of the original ones used were not sufficiently temp rated. The repair shop will drill small holes in the case, install over-rated replacement caps, and then reseal the holes. It will be BETTER than new.

The alternative is a $400+ new part from Volvo that has the same weak cap problem.

You can drive the vehicle without the control module while it's being repaired. But you will lose ABS and odometer function.

Be sure to have the correct socket, or you can make a very expensive mess of the ABS block. IIRC, the control module fastener torque is very light -- about 4 nm (but double check with Vadis/Vida). It's very easy to strip them if you go too tight. It's a 10 minute R/R procedure.

The upgraded module should hopefully then outlast the vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Well, I think we've figured out why your batts aren't lasting as long as ours.

I've seen other instances where Interstate's recommendations have been sub-optimal, so don't feel bad about it. But your mechanic should know better, especially if he's been around Volvos.

And you're not the first to put an H5 in an V70/850.

But the FWD white block models really need no less than an G49/H6 with 70ah for good long-term performance and longevity. A T5 is usually option-laden, and benefits even more from the added capacity. The more ah you can buy, the better. If you take care of it, you're usually buying more lifespan the bigger you go. That extra reserve margin gives you extra years.


There ARE a lot of MT-47's in s/v/c 70's. A quick search proved it. Also, more than a few reports of low-alt voltage. Perhaps I'll check it again during the winter (which we rarely have down here).

Pulled the trigger on an Interstate H6 after calling half a dozen shops for availability & price quotes. Good thing too as the prices ranged from $140 - $215! That's quite a spread. The best price happened to be at a little indy Shell station in the high-end part of town to boot. Surprising that one. And it hadn't been sitting on the shelf long either: Factory date is Aug 2012.

Walked out for about $70 after my mt-47 credit, tax & paying the upcharge for the H6. The handle is a nice feature and the batt. takes up the whole tray. I'll check it tomorrow AM to be sure it's fully charged.
 
Originally Posted By: rainman49
...hit it with a generous helping of flux and mini torch, then solder.
I hope you didn't use copper plumbing flux...

Quote:
Now I've got to do something with her ABS module. I'm considering doing a heat treatment that my neighbor has used to save several Xboxes.
Unfortunately, this is a common failure in our vintage Volvo's. And Volvo left us stuck with them, a quite expensive repair. Along with the evap. cores. . .

Mine failed due to internal cracked solder joints, particularly on the pins activating the ABS pump motor. The bigger the pin, the better the heat sink. I found about 12 solder cracks and reflowed all. Put it back together and it's worked fine since. No ABS light.

As VH mentioned, there's (now probably) several places on the net that fix these things.

Heat treatment on X-boxes?? Now I'm curious. . .
 
sleddriver,

For the evap issue, just be sure to run the fan only on hi for the last 5 minutes of any trip (it helps to dry off the evap area) . . . and do not wash off the factory shipping coating for any replacement evap (the instructions say to wash them). It adds many extra years before having to roll down the dash again.

Despite their little quirks, we seem to still love these cars. We come up with the various little workarounds, and they just seem to run forever.

Someone in another thread is thinking about a used Audi. I hope he might take a look at a used P2.
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Walked out for about $70 after my mt-47 credit, tax & paying the upcharge for the H6. The handle is a nice feature and the batt. takes up the whole tray. I'll check it tomorrow AM to be sure it's fully charged.


Congrats. Sounds like you got a really good deal.

All the best with it.
 
Thanks Volvohead, you answered the question I had as to whether the vehicle was still drivable. I'll pull the ABS module and send it off. I guess I just need to check the Volvo sites to see which shop they recommend.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Walked out for about $70 after my mt-47 credit, tax & paying the upcharge for the H6. The handle is a nice feature and the batt. takes up the whole tray. I'll check it tomorrow AM to be sure it's fully charged.


Congrats. Sounds like you got a really good deal.

All the best with it.
Your batt post WAS very timely. I appreciate the info and your comments. Looks like the IS H6 is sealed! No water ever needed? Haven't had one of those in years. So I can't check the gravity.

Re: Evap core. Mine still leaks. Never fixed it. It's a very small leak and hasn't grown over the years. Too many hot/cold cycles I guess and poor construction. Off course, the whole dash would have to come out to fix the thing. . . what a PITA!
 
Glad to help out.

Just a couple clarifications:

- Apparently NAPA "Legend" batteries are made by Deka, for those want that make. I'm not sure if the NAPA version is the AGM type. Dekas have a bit of a cult following in some circles, so it's just another source for those looking.

- I misspoke (brainfart) about the H6 group size. An H6 is G48, not a G49. G49 is an H8, too big for some. Sorry about that. The important thing is that H5/G47 works, but won't hold up as well.

I will try to hunt down the shop that did our ABS module and post it. He was the best at that time. There are a couple that will also sell the repair service via e-bay, in addition to their direct store sales.
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver

Re: Evap core. Mine still leaks. Never fixed it. It's a very small leak and hasn't grown over the years. Too many hot/cold cycles I guess and poor construction. Off course, the whole dash would have to come out to fix the thing. . . what a PITA!


It's the sitting condensation after trips that kills them. They start corroding and develop a pinhole, and that's the end. Keep them dry when not in use, and they last. Knock wood, ours is still tight and solid after 9 years having done the job. Run the fan on high with ac off for the last 5-10 minutes.

The Volvo service kit is @$400, and includes the receiver drier and all the other parts needed. The job for a DIY is about a full day - full rolldown, which includes the console, steering column . . . and often the front seats. Lots of work, but worth it. A dealer wants north of $1500 for the job, and a good indy is closer to $800-900.

Doing an evap job is a good opportunity to deal with lots of other issues (new odo gears, lamps, heater cores and hoses, squeak fixes, adding additional instruments, etc.). It is not something you want to do too often, however, as some parts are only good for so many R/R cycles.
 
Just a further clarification on the NAPA batteries.

I can confirm that the NAPA Legend line, sold in the eastern US, are now Dekas (East Penn).

I do not know what NAPA is selling in the west, but they used to sell Exides.
 
Just to update, I opted to get a module from Midwest ABS because he does an exchange service. Two weeks now (knock on wood) and all the craziness has disappeared from my daughter's '99 S70. No ABS light, speedo problems, myriad other fault lights, etc. I earlier added an extra 8 gauge power cable to the B+ cable setup.
 
Located the data I recorded while doing parasitic amp drain and light/radio drain measurements. I left out the ventilation blower as it's impossible to leave on with the key removed.

Code:
98 V70 Current-Draw Measurements



Ignition off:



9.5mA >> 20mA >> 9.5mA >> repeat

4sec pulse 4sec



Door open: 1.6A (all interior lights illuminated)



Accessory key On:



Radio on. All doors/lights closed/off: 2.6A

" ". Tailgate open, rear courtesy light on: 3.2A

" ". " " " " " off: 2.5A

" ". " " " " " " Volume turned up: 3.6A



Radio off. Doors closed. All interior lights on: 2A.

" " . " " . Driver light only on: 1A

" " . " " . Pssngr " " ": 1A

" " . " " . Both above on: 1.4A



" " . " " . Parking lights on: 3.4A

" " . " " . Emergency Flashers on: 0 > 9A > 0 > repeat.
 
Long-Term Update:

Since upgrading to the larger battery AND replacing the original starter, I've had no problems at all with the issues mentioned earlier. Volvohead was correct that my battery was undersized, in a hot climate CCA isn't everything, the original starter had really gone the distance, perhaps pulling more amps out of the small battery than necessary, etc.

My electric windows don't cause the interior lights to dim when they're used, the starter spins very fast and the car quickly starts even when it's below freezing, and I no longer worry about sitting in the car, making up the grocery list with the radio and blower on anymore.

IOW, problem solved!
 
My positive cable was giving me problems like yours. My 98 T5 never started great and always ran in the lower 13 volts. I felt the positive cable one day and it was really hot. After replacing it everything has been great and the volts are in the upper 13's.
I have a digital voltmeter in my car.
 
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