98 V70 Suspension Upgrade

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
4,836
Location
Central Texas
Previously, I've posted regarding declining ride quality over rough roads, 'sunken' asphalt, and a few clunks, knocks and other miscellaneous noises that were hard to track down. I refer to these Suspension Q, Ball joints and suspension, and Front End Rattles.

I had a rear tire separate, causing a rough ride. A replacement fixed that. Then I noticed the rear end sagging and a bit of a tail wag in the rear, so the rear shocks were replaced and not soon enough. The drivers side had no gas pressure sufficient to re-extend the strut and the passenger side, only to about 50% before it would stop. This made a huge difference and caused the worn front end to stand out even more by comparison.

After fixing the rear, I became suspicious of the front struts. I heard knocking noise coming from the front drivers side that I suspected was from the worn sway bar bushings. Yet nothing I'd done (short of replacing the bar and bushings as the later are not available separately) even gave a hint I was on the right path. I checked twice for loose bolts, worn sway bar end-links, and bad upper spring struts. No joy.

The CD player began to skip more over rough roads. I noticed the front end 'free-floating' over the whoop-d-doos (severe rolling asphalt pavement) and banging at times.

So I ordered new Sachs struts, bump stops and bellows taking advantage of Autohaus' free shipping. UPS delivered them yesterday on time and I installed both in the late afternoon. A rather straight-forward job with the right tools, including a spring compressor. I was pleased to see the Sachs struts were still made in Germany:

IMG_7346_zps9be92371.jpg


On the drivers side, the upper spring seat and bearing were fine as these had been replaced a few years back. The bump stop was long gone. No doubt this caused the BANG I heard at sharp road transitions.

I ordered a kit with both a new bump stop and bellows made by KYB in the USA for a reasonable price of $15 or so. Glad to see USA on both. Screwing the [censored] into the top of the bellows was frustrating as it took longer than expected. Removing the old strut was far quicker!

The driver side strut was indeed worn out. Very little resistance, not symmetrical between pulling and pushing and it would no longer retract when extended. It was original and had been in there now 195,000 mi over 15 years.

The passenger strut spring seat began to show wear and the bearing was a little rough. I'll have to keep an eye on them. All that remained of the bump stop was a small piece about an eigth of an inch thick! The top nut was quite difficult to turn, so I heated it with a torch. The new struts came with new top nuts.

This is a dirty job, but not a difficult one. Definitely was needed. I ran a few errands after I cleaned up and noticed a MUCH stiffer, taunt front-end. The drive was all nice pavement though so I'll have to report back after the whoop-d-doos, uneven RR tracks, and speed bumps. However, I noticed the annoying knocking sound was gone from the front left side. Yesss! Thank you! What a PITA that was....

Looking forward to a more thorough test and a smoother ride over rough pavement.
 
You're right...big PITA...but so very worth it.

On the XC, I replaced the front struts (Sachs/OE), control arms, balljoints, end links, strut mounts, bushings, bellows and bump stops and the rear shocks (Sachs/OE), shock mounts, and end links at 150,000 miles. Huge difference...back to the car I remembered buying.

I did the same on the T5 at 140,000 miles, and included the IPD swaybars and Bilstein struts/shocks. Again, huge difference: tight, responsive car and the IPD swaybars make for much flatter cornering...personally, while Bilsteins have served me well on previous Volvos, they are very firm on the P2 chassis...and I wouldn't recommend them for someone who wanted ride over handling...

I recommend a quality alignment. To date, our dealer does the best job of this...and they both drive perfectly true...
 
Last edited:
The PITA I was referring to wasn't the strut replacement itself, but the persistent, annoying knocking from the front driver side that seemed to elude me for years....I kept thinking something was loose!

It seemed to be another form of 'rod-knock' as the strut piston had so little viscous damping left. I'll have to drive over some bad roads for a good test, but so far so good.

I do remember your stories about the tremendous improvement with your own high-mileage Volvos. They were a key factor in doing mine. I'm sure Volvohead would have agreed but he seems to have left the forum. Unfortunate that...

I had heard of complaints with the Bilstein HD's in particular, about being far too firm. It was a toss up with their Touring strut/shock, but Sachs were less expensive and new is well...new and much firmer.

Thanks for the reply!
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver

I had a rear tire separate, causing a rough ride.



Sorry, but
lol.gif


Reminds me of a racing driver I worked with one time who reported "quite a loud noise followed by loss of power" when his turbocharger grenaded and then some rods poked out of the block.
 
Well, you got about 95K more miles out of the front struts than most P2 drivers, so I'd say you did OK! I'm kind of a believer that you just have to replace everything at 100-120K on those cars to keep everything happy.

Look on the bright side though, you don't have the Nivomats on the rear to deal with, unlike the V70R owners from that era! They worked great, but that's nothing but headaches and $$ on a 15 year old car...

Congrats on keeping the sled running! You should get another 200K out of it, no problem.
 
I didn't think the 98's were a P2 platform? Very happy to not have Nivomats! The sled keeps running and the PS rack keeps leaking......
 
I thought about changing all the dampers on my Jag, the found that they will likely cost more than £1200 just for the 4 dampers.

NSF is definately a little bit weaker than it was when new, but they will have to stay in situ for another year/50k.

Glad you got your issue fixed

I have changed all four dampers before and was always impressed by the improvement, I suppose these things degrade so slowly that if it is your regular vehicle you just adapt to the gradual change in performance.
 
Update:
I've had the opportunity to drive over some rough roads, potholes and whoop-d-doos and what a difference new shocks & struts makes! Wow...very taut, well-controlled, quite stiff...like new. It was so long ago though it's hard to remember!

I spoke with my indy re: the knocking sound I heard and he said worn struts can cause that as they develop a 'dead spot' in the strut position. I told him I swore it was a loose part...sounded just like one. But I could never find it. Now I understand.

Recently had some rain so I've refrained from pitching her into a corner at speed. Hopefully it will dry out in the next few days.

Very pleased with the results and well worth the effort!
 
Update II:
The weather has turned nice, the pavement had dried out and I've been driving over some more bad roads. Amazing how well the sled handles these now...with aplomb. Much better than banging and crashing. Haven't bottomed the front yet. Went through some tight twisties yesterdays, both uphill and downhill, at speed and she handled very well indeed. The front end remains silent...what a nice sound!

There is a road I regularly drive where the asphalt looks like a frozen series of waves of varying freqency. This is quite a test. The new suspension handles this section very well and will bounce once and quickly recover, ready for the next one.

Obviously, I've been driving on struts & shocks that were shot, yet I'd gotten so used to it. Glad I (finally) acted, if a bit late.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top