98 Expedition Suspension torque specs

[Fitz98]

Anyone know a good resource to find torque specs for my 98 Expedition 4x4?
Looking for:
Axle nut torque
Lug nut torque
Bolts that hold front bearing hub assemly in place
Bolts that hold CV Axle to front differential flange
Stabilizer bar links

 

[dakota99]

axle hub nut = 188-254 ft lbs.
lug nut torque = 100 ft lbs.
stabilizer bar link nut to stabilizer bar = 15-20 ft lbs.
stabilizer bar retainer bracket to frame = 19-26 ft lbs.

that's all i can find in my chiltons manual, maybe someone can chime in with more.

 

[Fitz98]

Thanks,
That is awesome. I have been seraching online for hours and have been getting conflicting information.
Does your manual have the caliper to steering knucle torque as well?

If anyone else has these 2, that would be great

Bolts that hold front bearing hub assemly in place
Bolts that hold CV Axle to front differential flange

 

[Trav]

CV axle to flange 51-67 ft lbs
Front hub assy 110-148 ft lbs

A drop of Loctite red on the cv exle to flange bolts is recommended, it was used OEM.

 

[mechtech2]

You don't torque sway bar/stabilizer bar links.
They are set by thread depth. You want a little squish on the rubber or urethane bushings. More on the rubber ones.

 

[Trav]

That's the way i always did them but on these if you do it like that it will clunk like crazy. Ford uses poly OEM and tightens them to 15-20 ft lbs, the threads are bottomed out.
Some GM W bodies also do this. Been there done that on these.

 

[Fitz98]

Thanks to all. This is not easy information to find on the web.
As I am removing parts and replacing, I am puting anti seize on most bolts.
Can you use locktite and antiseize, or does the loctite prevent corrosion as well as prevent loosening?
Which is the better method to allow for future servicability and safety?

 

[Trav]

Quote:
Can you use locktite and antiseize, or does the loctite prevent corrosion as well as prevent loosening?


No you cannot use both and yes Loctite does prevent corrosion.
Ford uses red OEM on the Expedition CV flanges and drive shaft flanges.
Just a drop on the first few threads will do the job,it will wick up the rest. Torque to spec as soon as all bolts are snug, no coffee breaks in between.

 

[Fitz98]

Red is "permanent"
Will I have any trouble removing for future service or should I go to blue?
Afterall, the vehicle does have 150K on it, so I imagine that CV Joints and differential bearings are in my future.
I have never used red, so I am not sure what "permanent" really means.

 

[Trav]

No problem with red in this application the threads go all the way though the flange. Just hit the back of the bolt threads with a propane torch, it makes them easy to remove. Just hot not red or smoking hot.

 

[Fitz98]

Anyone ever tried pulling 220 lbs of torque?
Holy [censored]!
First my 1/2 torque wrench only goes to 150, so I did my axle nut to that, and then gave it as much more as I could by hand. I am probably close to the lower limit of the axle hub nut spec, but that's all I could do and I am 215 lbs (not muscle bound, but no weakling either).
I guess if it was critical, I could take it to a shop, but do they really do anything more accurate than throw an impact driver on it and maybe over torque it?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Fitz98
Anyone ever tried pulling 220 lbs of torque?
Holy [censored]!
First my 1/2 torque wrench only goes to 150, so I did my axle nut to that, and then gave it as much more as I could by hand. I am probably close to the lower limit of the axle hub nut spec, but that's all I could do and I am 215 lbs (not muscle bound, but no weakling either).
I guess if it was critical, I could take it to a shop, but do they really do anything more accurate than throw an impact driver on it and maybe over torque it?


Yes, it isn't a lot of fun. The nut on the steering box on my Town Car was like 250lb-ft, which is close to the limit of my 1/2" drive torque wrench.