'98 Cherokee Rusted Brake Line

[Fleetmon]

The line sprung a leak where it follows the frame rail. Further up the line towards the front, the line looks good and no rust. Can I use a union/coupler to splice a new section of line rather than replacing the entire line?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!

 

[sciphi]

By all means. Make sure to flare the good factory line properly. A compression fitting is a no-go for brakes due to the pressures involved.

 

[nitehawk55]

I have found if you start putting in patch pieces it will likely leak somewhere else . It's generally under the clips where they rust and you don't see it .

Personally I would change the whole line and if you plan of keeping it have a close look at the rest .
I did all the lines in my 97 GMC 4 years ago so no worries .

Leave the old lines in place then use plastic ties to fasten the new line along them and spray with oil to rustproof .

 

[yonyon]

If you can manage it, it's definitely best to replace the whole line. If you can't then it's generally accepted practice to use a flare to connecting the old line to the new. The thing is, if you haven't done it a few times you could easily make a bad flare especially on the old line.

If you're concerned that you might make a bad flare then an easier alternative that will work but might be hard to find is to use a Swagelok stainless double ferrule compression union. It might not pass a gov't inspection and costs more than the cheap brass compression unions that shouldn't be used for brakes, but is safe.

Whatever type of repair you choose, check thoroughly for leaks and stomp the pedal like you're trying to pop a line when you're done.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
The line sprung a leak where it follows the frame rail. Further up the line towards the front, the line looks good and no rust. Can I use a union/coupler to splice a new section of line rather than replacing the entire line?

If the rest of the line is definitely good (check at the mounting clips) then yes, splices are perfectly fine.

But good flares can be more difficult to make than you might think, so be prepared to do it a few times until you get it right. You will eventually figure it out, though.

Make sure you use the proper line-cutting tool, NOT a hacksaw. The cutting tool plus flaring tools should be easily rentable.

And remember to put the new nut on the line BEFORE you make the flare!!!

 

[The_Jeff]

You bet it's easy. Sometimes snaking the first few feet down the firewall is the hardest. Pro tip, cut the old line so you have a free foot (without any clamps etc) that you can bend away from the frame and manipulate into a flare.

Flaring it while old brake fluid dribbles out, on your back, in your driveway, ups your mechanic man-card a notch.

 

[Trav]

Flared connections are fine as long as the line is in rust free condition.
I don't use steel line anymore, instead i use nicopp, its as strong as steel lines, incredibly flexible, super easy to flare and 100% rust free.

You can get it at AA and use a promo code, its not that expensive and imo well worth replacing the whole line with it.

 

[andyd]

Stop trying to glamorize the job.

I use various dodges to plug the lines or tilt the open part up above the MC and ABS Old pans to catch up the drips. Two qts of DOT 3 or 4 depending on the car. My BIL has a 3/16 tubing replacement kit that circulates between a bunch of drinking buddies. You just replace what you use before you pass it along. I used it to re-line the Rat. If you keep the brake fluid flowing, it proves out the work, AND, gives a great pedal from the gravity bleed. But on the way to this point was using pre-fab lengths with couplings. Brake lines rust around where they are clamped to the frame. So, a section of line has to be unclipped from the frame. Check it out. I keep carpet cut offs to lie on.

Yah , I get all my cars' brake lines replaced and now this stuff, nicopp, comes around. Doh!

 

[The_Eric]

I agree with the rest of the posters on flaring and NiCop line, but will add that it may be worth it to give the dealer a call and see if the line is offered as a whole piece. I've done a few like that and definitely appreciate the fit and finish.

 

[The_Jeff]

The perpetual drip through the open line keeps metal shards from infecting your wheel cylinders.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

That is the most common spot for the rear lines to rot. I blew one out there .... rest of the line was spotless. Had a new one put in.

 

[Fleetmon]

thanks all....I think I'll look into the NiCopp line and do them all.

 

[default]

Usually when one goes out many is not all on the back half of the car need replacing.

 

[Donald]

If you are paying for labor then one preformed may be the best answer.

If you are doing it yourself, then just get a small roll of brake line.

No question NiCop brake line will not rust, but steel will last the rest of the vehicle life also. The original brake line lasted 16 years, the car probably has another 5 left (just a guess).

Having said all that, I put NiCop in both of my vehicles.

 

[Trav]

Aftermarket is all over the map,some of the black coated steel last a while but the naked stuff seems like it begins to corrode almost immediately.
OEM stuff is just as iffy, my Expedition was well rotten at 5 yrs, Yukon XL 6 yrs. The oldest car a 97 Subaru that sees only winter and doesn't even get washed has pristine original lines. Go figure.

The Nicopp IMHO is well worth the peace of mind even on an old vehicle that may end up being kept longer than planned especially in the rust belt.

 

[Fleetmon]

Yeah, I'm sold on what y'all have recommended and what I've read so far....NiCopp is the way to go and (unfortunately) I'll be doing them myself.

 

[yonyon]

It's not as bad as it sounds. Keep a bucket of water handy to rinse the slippery stuff off your hands and some towels to dry with and all you really have to worry about is sand/dirt/rust falling in your eyes. If you can think about the $100 and change you're not spending for every hour you're working on it...

 

[andyd]

Read the instructions on the double flare tool. Buy a tubing cutter. Make your lengths long enough to allow for a re-do on the flare. If you break the clips that secure the line, replace them

 

[zzyzzx]

Check dealer pricing on pre-bent hoses, last time I did they were cheap.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Check dealer pricing on pre-bent hoses, last time I did they were cheap.

The problem with new OE is that some of those lines can be really tough to feed into place on a finished vehicle.

If the line you need to install is easy to feed over and through all the weirdly-shaped places where it needs to go, then by all means use a new line.