97 Teggy switch!

[Juelz]

In my other topic you guys were saying that Integras are not picky about oil so the brand wouldnt matter as long as I kept up with my oil changes but I was running synthetic in there before and now was thinking of going back to regular because my car doesnt exactly call for synthetic and its cheaper lol. Are there any disadvantages??? Would I lose any advantages??

Im thinking of going with Havoline $13.24 for 5 quarts or castrol or whatever my mechanic can get the best deal on!

Input greatly appreciated!

 

[dparm]

Modern conventional oils are really just becoming semi-synthetic in order to meet the latest API requirements. Conventional would work fine. Those cars aren't really picky unless you have a VTEC motor (GS-R or ITR).

 

[JHZR2]

Agree with dparm. But personally for peace of mind I'd just run the m1 or pp in 5qt wm jugs and go the full 7500 mile OCI. If worried about economics, just change the filter every other time. I'd really not be worried about it. Great engine there.

 

[Juelz]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Modern conventional oils are really just becoming semi-synthetic in order to meet the latest API requirements. Conventional would work fine. Those cars aren't really picky unless you have a VTEC motor (GS-R or ITR).


ok thanks

 

[Juelz]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Agree with dparm. But personally for peace of mind I'd just run the m1 or pp in 5qt wm jugs and go the full 7500 mile OCI. If worried about economics, just change the filter every other time. I'd really not be worried about it. Great engine there.


pp? penzoil plantinum? and whats wm?

 

[Danno]

wm = walmart

 

[ag_ghost]

Originally Posted By: Juelz
pp? penzoil plantinum? and whats wm?

Yes
Walmart

Kevin

 

[gregk24]

If you want to go the conventional route then use Pennzoil Yellow Bottle. Great dino oil with lots of moly and group II+ basestocks. Honda/Acuras seem to like Pennzoil products. I am running PU in my Accord now and have PP waiting to go in for the next OCI. What filter do you use?

 

[901Memphis]

You will lose the advantage of extending drains , which is where synthetics shine, but you can still do some pretty crazy miles on a Honda engine with API SN conventional.

If you want to stick with synthetic you could go to WM and get Supertech synthetic or QSUD which is cheaper than most others and still great products.

PYB, M5k, Motorcraft, all cheaper choices too.

 

[Lead Shoes]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Modern conventional oils are really just becoming semi-synthetic in order to meet the latest API requirements. Conventional would work fine. Those cars aren't really picky unless you have a VTEC motor (GS-R or ITR).


Even with a vtec motor you will only notice the diff when you hit v-tec before the oil is warmed up which you shouldn't be doing really when the car is cold, mainly because the golden era hondas vtec is oil pressure related.

Use what ever is on sale from a major brand; conventional or syn your b18b will last longer than the rest of the car likely.

 

[dparm]

"Hit VTEC?"

VTEC is always operating. I think you mean the switch to the "high" cam lobe. From the factory, the power output is almost totally linear, so you don't feel the car surge forward like you might with a turbo.

And yes, I have owned two DOHC VTEC-powered cars: Integra GS-R and S2000 (AP2).

 

[Lead Shoes]

I guess if you want to be that way but in my experience I never notice the difference before I hit V-tec cold which is 4500+. Your F-20 series in the s2k doesn't play much of a factor in the B series area I play in.

In my current B17a1 with 4730 edelbrock cams you defiantly notice the difference in v-tec between syn and dino... likely from the 268 deg intake and 266 deg exhaust profile that I have in this current all motor build where a high zinc syn is worth the extra $10 a OCI but syn hits v-tec harder in my experience; believe it or not but it put me at 180whp with dino PYB vs 188whp on QSUD on the dyno for charity at MAP.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Brenden
I guess if you want to be that way but in my experience I never notice the difference before I hit the V-tec cold which is 4500+. Your F series in the s2k doesn't play much of a factor in the B series area I play in.

In my current B17a1 with 4730 edelbrock cams you definatly notice the difference in v-tec between syn and dino... likely from the 268 deg intake and 266 deg exhaust cams I have in my current all motor build.


I'm betting that viscosity index has alot to do with the feeling of v-tec

 

[Lead Shoes]

Never really checked but I could over a bit of time if anyone is interested...

 

[Juelz]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
If you want to go the conventional route then use Pennzoil Yellow Bottle. Great dino oil with lots of moly and group II+ basestocks. Honda/Acuras seem to like Pennzoil products. I am running PU in my Accord now and have PP waiting to go in for the next OCI. What filter do you use?


im going with purolator classic

 

[Juelz]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
You will lose the advantage of extending drains , which is where synthetics shine, but you can still do some pretty crazy miles on a Honda engine with API SN conventional.

If you want to stick with synthetic you could go to WM and get Supertech synthetic or QSUD which is cheaper than most others and still great products.

PYB, M5k, Motorcraft, all cheaper choices too.


thanks and since the synthetics have the extended drain benefit are they really more expensive or does it work out because instead of changing at 3000 you change at 7500 miles?

 

[Juelz]

and no v-tec here I like my gas when I have friends who pop vtec alot and I can actually see the needle running away from the Full lol

 

[yesthatsteve]

Originally Posted By: Juelz
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
You will lose the advantage of extending drains , which is where synthetics shine, but you can still do some pretty crazy miles on a Honda engine with API SN conventional.

If you want to stick with synthetic you could go to WM and get Supertech synthetic or QSUD which is cheaper than most others and still great products.

PYB, M5k, Motorcraft, all cheaper choices too.


thanks and since the synthetics have the extended drain benefit are they really more expensive or does it work out because instead of changing at 3000 you change at 7500 miles?


The answer is, "It depends." Some synthetics are toast by 7500 miles in normal service; others go well over 10,000. Right now, the best everyday value for synthetic looks to be Mobil1 (and AFE, and M1HM) at Wal-Mart - less than $23 for the 5-quart jug. QSUD had a price increase about the same time, and is just under $22.

3000 miles on conventional isn't necessary unless you do lots of short trips or hoon the car to within an inch of its life. Any API SN conventional will easily do 5000+ in that application with a properly functioning engine and "normal service" driving conditions.

If you want to save money on your maintenance, check the sale/promotion sub-forum here. The FAR (free after rebate) days look to be behind us, but AAP has a solid deal in August on 5 quarts of Havoline synthetic and a PureOne filter.

 

[Juelz]

Originally Posted By: yesthatsteve
Originally Posted By: Juelz
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
You will lose the advantage of extending drains , which is where synthetics shine, but you can still do some pretty crazy miles on a Honda engine with API SN conventional.

If you want to stick with synthetic you could go to WM and get Supertech synthetic or QSUD which is cheaper than most others and still great products.

PYB, M5k, Motorcraft, all cheaper choices too.


thanks and since the synthetics have the extended drain benefit are they really more expensive or does it work out because instead of changing at 3000 you change at 7500 miles?


The answer is, "It depends." Some synthetics are toast by 7500 miles in normal service; others go well over 10,000. Right now, the best everyday value for synthetic looks to be Mobil1 (and AFE, and M1HM) at Wal-Mart - less than $23 for the 5-quart jug. QSUD had a price increase about the same time, and is just under $22.

3000 miles on conventional isn't necessary unless you do lots of short trips or hoon the car to within an inch of its life. Any API SN conventional will easily do 5000+ in that application with a properly functioning engine and "normal service" driving conditions.

If you want to save money on your maintenance, check the sale/promotion sub-forum here. The FAR (free after rebate) days look to be behind us, but AAP has a solid deal in August on 5 quarts of Havoline synthetic and a PureOne filter.

thanks

 

[Juelz]

and do mechanics get really good deals? because I could let him order my oil for me and pay him lol