It won't come down far enough to make that viable without SERIOUS effort and frustration.
I hate Ford for designing the pan this way.
I hate Ford for designing the pan this way.
96 Explorer 4.0 - Low/No Oil Pressure
- Thread starter FusilliJerry82
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
I already did with the oil.
Next time do JUST the filter or the oil. For all you know you've got so much fuel dilution that the visc is so low that as it heats your pressure truly drops off. The refreshing of oil resets this count down to too thin over your operational variable in time/mileage/temp.
Not that this is necessarily the case, but it would be useful to isolate any and all alterations when you're seeking the cause.
Get the sender changed or the wiring checked. Do the mechanical/electric/electronic separate gauge thing too. I would think that if it was SERIOUSLY no oil pressure, you would be telling us about how you seized your engine or had to send it to the junkyard due to the noise level and oil consumption.
I already did with the oil.
Next time do JUST the filter or the oil. For all you know you've got so much fuel dilution that the visc is so low that as it heats your pressure truly drops off. The refreshing of oil resets this count down to too thin over your operational variable in time/mileage/temp.
Not that this is necessarily the case, but it would be useful to isolate any and all alterations when you're seeking the cause.
Get the sender changed or the wiring checked. Do the mechanical/electric/electronic separate gauge thing too. I would think that if it was SERIOUSLY no oil pressure, you would be telling us about how you seized your engine or had to send it to the junkyard due to the noise level and oil consumption.
Like I said, I think there's SOME oil pressure too; if it were zero, it would have seized a while ago. However, its very low; the noise is unmistakable and loud enough. It's NOT the sender.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
It won't come down far enough to make that viable without SERIOUS effort and frustration.
I hate Ford for designing the pan this way.
No no, I didn't mean pull the pan, just put enough solvent in to have a few inches of it in the pan so that the pick-up is submerged.
It won't come down far enough to make that viable without SERIOUS effort and frustration.
I hate Ford for designing the pan this way.
No no, I didn't mean pull the pan, just put enough solvent in to have a few inches of it in the pan so that the pick-up is submerged.
I want to make sure any possible clogs are submerged.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
I want to make sure any possible clogs are submerged.
I imagine most of them are stuck to the pick-up screen, LOL
I want to make sure any possible clogs are submerged.
I imagine most of them are stuck to the pick-up screen, LOL
Well, its quasi-dead. Still runs but its too noisy to obviously be safe to drive any distance, so it was replaced as a driver by the Mazda. Its still in my driveway, awaiting its fate. Like I've been saying, I want to give it one last try to get it unsludged (it it even is a clog) before it's junked. If it works, it'll stay an auxiliary vehicle, if not, its probably destined for the scrap heap. Even if it does work, this soak will probably make it leak like a sieve, so its probably not very long for this world anyway.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I don't remember how the filter is mounted on the 4.0L (I haven't changed the oil on one in at least 8 months, lol) but what you COULD do is:
1. Remove the drain pan bolt.
2. Remove the oil filter.
3. Hook up a small hose or tube through the FEED inlet(s) on the oil filter housing (NOT the centre tube, which is the OUTLET; it feeds the engine filtered oil) and GENTLY pour something like mineral spirits or kerosene into this hose from a slightly elevated location.
This will back-feed the pump, and should flush the screen. You will be able to observe what it removes by what comes out the drain pan plug hole. Once it is dripping clean, maybe put the plug in and let the pan fill up a little and sit for a bit. Then drain again.
This would avoid putting the solvent/cleaner through parts of the engine where it could potentially cause damage, like the valvetrain.
As a final step, I would recommend dumping some oil down the tube when you are done your flush to preventing anything from "dry" starting.
This sounds worth trying to me. There should only be one outlet from the engine. Jam a big enough hose into it, or thread a smaller one in as far as you can.
A screen that plugged up when stuff warmed up and started circulating is one thing that could cause oil pressure to drop when warm.
Another thing would be a good blast with an air hose.
I don't remember how the filter is mounted on the 4.0L (I haven't changed the oil on one in at least 8 months, lol) but what you COULD do is:
1. Remove the drain pan bolt.
2. Remove the oil filter.
3. Hook up a small hose or tube through the FEED inlet(s) on the oil filter housing (NOT the centre tube, which is the OUTLET; it feeds the engine filtered oil) and GENTLY pour something like mineral spirits or kerosene into this hose from a slightly elevated location.
This will back-feed the pump, and should flush the screen. You will be able to observe what it removes by what comes out the drain pan plug hole. Once it is dripping clean, maybe put the plug in and let the pan fill up a little and sit for a bit. Then drain again.
This would avoid putting the solvent/cleaner through parts of the engine where it could potentially cause damage, like the valvetrain.
As a final step, I would recommend dumping some oil down the tube when you are done your flush to preventing anything from "dry" starting.
This sounds worth trying to me. There should only be one outlet from the engine. Jam a big enough hose into it, or thread a smaller one in as far as you can.
A screen that plugged up when stuff warmed up and started circulating is one thing that could cause oil pressure to drop when warm.
Another thing would be a good blast with an air hose.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
You can rig a block adapter from Jeg's or anyone and just use the inlet (OUT from engine) as your pump/gravity feed point. An ATF funnel should work well with a hose clamped to it. The filter is low enough. Refill as needed ..from the drain pan if you want to go cheap. Re-oil the pump in the same manner.
How's the oil pump driven on this thing (I haven't read all the posts-obviously)? Can he use a drill to drive it??
How's the oil pump driven on this thing (I haven't read all the posts-obviously)? Can he use a drill to drive it??
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
Like I said, I think there's SOME oil pressure too; if it were zero, it would have seized a while ago. However, its very low; the noise is unmistakable and loud enough. It's NOT the sender.
Quote:
one day despite no noises or sharp increases in temp
I'm sorry. I interpreted this incorrectly. I got the impression it was a random condition that produced no noise and was otherwise 100% transparent other than the time of the event. It is odd that a mechanical condition can correct itself. Not unheard of, but usually undiagnosable. One would have to tear into it to find the broken relief spring that just happens to align properly 90% of the time and then, for no good reason, open the valve.
Good luck.
Like I said, I think there's SOME oil pressure too; if it were zero, it would have seized a while ago. However, its very low; the noise is unmistakable and loud enough. It's NOT the sender.
Quote:
one day despite no noises or sharp increases in temp
I'm sorry. I interpreted this incorrectly. I got the impression it was a random condition that produced no noise and was otherwise 100% transparent other than the time of the event. It is odd that a mechanical condition can correct itself. Not unheard of, but usually undiagnosable. One would have to tear into it to find the broken relief spring that just happens to align properly 90% of the time and then, for no good reason, open the valve.
Good luck.
I'm sorry, I thought I had explained that previously but reading back I hadn't.
- Status