92 Accord: Engine stutters upon acce

[Mr_Accord]

Alright so this started the other night after dropping off my friend and spending maybe 10 mins in the parking lot I started the car and began to drive down the road and then the engine began to hesitate and stutter briefly when giving it gas/attempting to increase speed, I could hear it and feel the vibrations in the wheel and pedals. It felt like one of the cylinders wasn't firing or in sync properly. I got home left it to cool down, came back later started it idled perfectly, took it for a spin and for the first few minutes it accelerated and drove great everything back to normal, it was only after the engine warmed up that the engine began to stutters and hesitate upon giving it gas to accel. Drove the car back home, popped the hood and I could hear a loud ticking sound that wasn't usually there, It sounded like it was coming from behind the head around where the fuel injection system is?

Next day I started by installing new NGK G-Power plugs, opened up the distributor cap, looked good so did the rotor, filled up the tank with fresh gas, still does it.

Does anybody have any ideas of what is the problem? I leave the car to cool down and I can drive it for a few minutes without any trouble, but as soon as the engine warms up this hesitation [censored] during accel occurs?

 

[Boomer]

When was the fuel filter changed?

 

[DieselTech]

Sounds like a coil to me.

 

[Mr_Accord]

the fuel filter was changed about 2 yrs ago I have done about 30 - 40000kms since then. What coil are we talking about?

 

[RH+G]

If it stutters under partial acc and drives good under full acc. U might have a clogged Egr. Common problem on older Hondas

 

[Mr_Accord]

Originally Posted By: RH+G
If it stutters under partial acc and drives good under full acc. U might have a clogged Egr. Common problem on older Hondas


Thanks I will look into this Valve. If it is is the EGR how would I go about testing this, and do I attempt to unclog or replace the valve all together?

 

[mechtech2]

I am surprised that there are no engine codes. Maybe the car is too old.
So it gets hot, and misfires? Sounds like ignition. The module ignitor] or a coil.

 

[Scott_Tucker]

A plugged fuel filter will not cause this. If I read correctly you did not change your spark plug wires. Replace them and the problem will likely go away. This is by far the most common cause of an ignition misfire like you are describing. Usually the hard plastic part of the spark plug wire that goes through the head to the plug "leaks" spark to the spark plug tube, causing the misfire.

 

[Mr_Accord]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I am surprised that there are no engine codes. Maybe the car is too old.
So it gets hot, and misfires? Sounds like ignition. The module ignitor] or a coil.


way too old. But the thing is if it was something serious like EGR valve or the fuel injector system the check engine light would come on, but it hasn't.

I should have checked the wires as well. I'm probably going to just buy new wires since these ones a pretty old.

 

[RH+G]

Well simple way to test if its ur valve is to unplug the vacuum line to the egr and take it for a spin. I have had ignition wires to the same thing on my honda too

 

[TexasHonda]

Missing on a warm engine can be caused by coolant leaking onto plugs causing short. I had this on 94 Accord. If you're not losing coolant then problem is likely electrical; coil, wires, distributor cap, or rotor.

EGR won't cause missing in my experience, only hesitation. As pointed out, disabling EGR by removing vacuum line to EGR will tell you if EGR is causing problem.

good luck

 

[DieselTech]

Originally Posted By: RH+G
If it stutters under partial acc and drives good under full acc. U might have a clogged Egr. Common problem on older Hondas


This very well could be as EGR valves work at off idle. Good call

Still could be ignition related.

I read all the time about people with issues and the first thing I see people bring up is a fuel filter. This is by far not a fuel filter issue. Even with todays fuel it is very uncommon to ever have a fully plugged fuel filter. The most I have seen is 70% restriction on a Ford f150 with a factory filter with 160,000 miles on it.

 

[AcuraTech]

Since it only happens when warm, I would guess the ignitor inside of the distributor. However, when they fail it will often not start at all, especially after hot soak.

Try wires first, then go from there. If it is still doing it, look into ignitor diagnostic procedures.

 

[Geonerd]

I'd start by disabling the EGR valve - this is a very quick and easy test. Pull or pinch shut the vacuum line (I think it's #15 or #16) that leads from the black box on the firewall to the EGR valve, located on the right side of the engine. This will prevent the valve from opening. You'll likely get a CEL light, but this will clear a while after you replace the hose.

 

[Mr_Accord]

Alright so after checking through a list of possibilities here is where I'm at.

-Changed the plugs, new NGK G-Power (Problem persists)
-Changed the Plug Wires (Problem persists)
-Inspected Dist Cap & Rotor everything looked fine

-Unplugged vacuum line #16 going to EGR Valve and took the car for a spin. Once car reached normal operating temp the check engine light came on and the knocking problem wasn't there unlike other times when the vacuum line was connected.

So what does this mean, the valve itself needs to be replaced or is this clogged ports?

 

[TexasHonda]

There is a procedure for cleaning the EGR ports and passages. EGR valve rarely seems to be the problem and is difficult to clean (pintle obstructs access to sealing surface). PM your email address and I'll forward a pdf of the cleanout procedure. I think your model has the improved EGR manifold which is relatively easy to clean.

good luck

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: AcuraTech
Since it only happens when warm, I would guess the ignitor inside of the distributor. However, when they fail it will often not start at all, especially after hot soak.

Try wires first, then go from there. If it is still doing it, look into ignitor diagnostic procedures.

Yes. It is common for Japanese cars with distributors to have the electronics fail inside the distributor. Often the Check Engine light will not come on either.

Also, sometimes the cam sensor insider the distributor can fail, and often that part is built in such a way that a rebuild distributor is required.

In 1992, having a check engine light come one due to misfire was not required. That was required in 1996.

 

[UberxG]

How to clean them on your accord

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8N-SE047VY

 

[KeithG]

Check for cracks in your intake/ air filter box. I had an old Mazda that developed a crack one frigid day. It would stumble on acceleration as the engine mounts flexed.

I didn't read all of your symptoms, so I'm just throwing this out there.

 

[Geonerd]

Originally Posted By: Mr_Accord
Alright so after checking through a list of possibilities here is where I'm at.

-Changed the plugs, new NGK G-Power (Problem persists)
-Changed the Plug Wires (Problem persists)
-Inspected Dist Cap & Rotor everything looked fine

-Unplugged vacuum line #16 going to EGR Valve and took the car for a spin. Once car reached normal operating temp the check engine light came on and the knocking problem wasn't there unlike other times when the vacuum line was connected.

So what does this mean, the valve itself needs to be replaced or is this clogged ports?


Likely clogged ports. This forces all the EGR bypass gas into one or two cylinders. The excess inert gas causes a misfire in those cylinders.

The video posted above give you an idea of what's going on, but is not applicable to the 92 models. Instead of a nice plate to pull, there are a series of brass plugs that must be extracted to allow access to the ports. You'll need a long drill bit (it's difficult to get a drill close to the plugs, due to all the misc. hardware in the area), sturdy steel self-tapping screws, and a dent-puller to yank the screws+plugs out once they are threaded together. I'm sure there are other ways to extract the plugs, but the above hardware worked well for me.

Pull all the plugs, then get after the ports with a well built wire brush. You don't want a cheap brush that will shed brass or steel strands into your engine! After the ports are cleaned out, hook up a straw, tubing, etc. to a vacuum and suck as much crud out as possible. I guess the ideal tool might be a hollow metal rod, with a serrated lip, that is hooked to the vacuum. This should allow you to suck the carbon as you break it free.

The other, somewhat more remote, possibility is a defective EGR valve-position-sender. This is a variable resistor attached to the EGR valve. As the valve rises, the changing output voltage provides the ECU with feedback, so that the valve is not opened too far. (The ECU controls the EGR position by varying the duty cycle applied to the EGR solenoid. This, in turn, varies the vacuum level that lifts the valve.) If the potentiometer is out of whack the EGR valve might be held open too far, also resulting in misfires. You can test this by probing the 3 wires that attatch to the EGR valve. One will be +12v, one ground, and one the variable output. A little poking about will determine which is which. Apply a vacuum to the EGR input (physically raising the valve) and observe the output voltage. I forget the proper voltage range, but it shouldn't be too hard to look up the values. If you are seeing voltage significantly outside the specified range, the valve may need replacing.

I guess it's also possible that the gas valve section of the EGR assembly is somehow messed up, and it's allowing more flow than it should. Pulling the EGR valve can be a real bugger due to the difficulty in getting a socket onto one of the retaining nuts - which is likely to be VERY tight. For this reason, I'd save this option as a last resort.

Here's a good video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLU6MeRFdBY
I don't know that you need to remove all the hardware they did.

-Greg