'89 Camry getting hot

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Kentucky
1989 Toyota Camry, V-6.
Start up and let run in drive-way, no problem.
Take off down the road and it wants to register hot.
Pull in and shut off and water gushes back out the overflow bottle.
Have changed thermostat and that is as far as I have gone.
No water in oil, and car runs great.
Any ideas appreciated.
frown.gif
 
You installed the thermostat pointy side up right?
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Radiator cap holding pressure?

Water pump turning?

Electric fans coming on when suppose to?

Coolant circulating through radiator at rated thermostat opening temp?

Coolant clean?

Coolant/water ratio correct?

Radiator free flowing?
 
Quote:


You installed the thermostat pointy side up right?
grin.gif
Yes

Radiator cap holding pressure? Yes with no leaks

Water pump turning? Yes, water circulating.

Electric fans coming on when suppose to? Yes, one on and then the other when a/c kicks on.

Coolant circulating through radiator at rated thermostat opening temp? I think it is opening right. Gets to about 1/2 of the gague and then opens.

Coolant clean? New

Coolant/water ratio correct? Use 50/50

Radiator free flowing? Yes, new rad


 
You using el-cheapo aftermarket thermostat or brand name such as Stant or OE Toyota?

Also: for all Japanese EFI engines, always make sure to use the exact temperature per your vehicle's specification. Failure to do so may result in very interesting situ further down the road.

Q.
 
Quote:


You using el-cheapo aftermarket thermostat or brand name such as Stant or OE Toyota?

Also: for all Japanese EFI engines, always make sure to use the exact temperature per your vehicle's specification. Failure to do so may result in very interesting situ further down the road.

Q.



Yes new 82c stant.
 
You're going to have to start double checking some things. Let the engine warm up to temp with the cap off. Look down into the radiator through the filler neck and verify that coolant is flowing at thermostat opening temp.

If in doubt, take the thermostat back out and drop it into a pan of boiling water; that way you can see for sure whether it's indeed opening.

Question: - when you said that the coolant is gushing out the overflow bottle, is it just gushing, or is it boiling inside the overflow bottle?

Question: - you have the system completely bled of air correct?
 
Quote:


You're going to have to start double checking some things. Let the engine warm up to temp with the cap off. Look down into the radiator through the filler neck and verify that coolant is flowing at thermostat opening temp.

If in doubt, take the thermostat back out and drop it into a pan of boiling water; that way you can see for sure whether it's indeed opening.

Question: - when you said that the coolant is gushing out the overflow bottle, is it just gushing, or is it boiling inside the overflow bottle?

Question: - you have the system completely bled of air correct?



Ok, this is what we have done.
The little car got hot, not boiling hot, but hotter than normal.
So we checked the obvious things, hoses, coolant etc and found nothing amiss.
So, I checked and seen that there was no coolant circulating the way it should.
So, figured, stat, so we changed that.
Wife drove car a bit and all was good.
Daughter drove it that night and she said the temp gauge was higher than normal but never boiled over, not even smelled funny like one would hot.
Noticed the plastic tank on the rad had a place in the seam that was seeping, so we replaced rad.
Still ran higher than normal, so today I worked over the old stat where I could put it in(has to have one in it) and took the new one back out and I have water circulating.
Daughter drove car home and back over here and as I type she is out in it now and so far no high gauge reading.
1/2 way between cold and 1/2.
I'm thinking it might have a head gasket, head, or block issue.
I get no bubbles in the rad like you would when you have one leaking into the water jacket.
 
Quote:


So we checked the obvious things, hoses, coolant etc and found nothing amiss. So, I checked and seen that there was no coolant circulating the way it should. So, figured, stat, so we changed that.




How did you check for circulation; did you look down the filler neck like I mentioned previously?

I'm beginning to suspect the water pump at this point. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat has been replaced, the only component left in the system that could be limiting coolant flow is the water pump itself.

As far as thermostats go, I don't trust them; that's why I always buy the best thermostat that NAPA makes for the application. I've bought some inexpensive thermostats in the past that were brand new and would not open up in a pan of boiling water. Never again will I buy an inexpensive thermostat. I've never had a problem with a thermostat from NAPA or the dealer.
 
Yes, with engine warm.
I do buy the stants stats.
Not cheap for this car.
I did check both, the old and the new stat and they did open at about the same time.
The old stat looked OE, it had Toyota stamped on it.
 
My wife's '88 Nissan pickup has done the same thing. Thermostat was first guess, but wrong. Water pump was next, but didn't cure it. A shop diagnosed it as a bad fan clutch (built onto water pump), so the water pump was replaced again. Still wrong. They did the water pump for the third time; still not cured. Several flushes didn't help. Asked around on here, and was told the radiator could be partially clogged. Her symptoms were it would get hot when at interstate speed, or with the AC on. But not at idle. The radiator was replaced, and the problem cured.
Your problem sounds similar. But you all ready replaced the radiator. Was it new? A used or reman'd on could possibly have a bunch of silt in the bottom, limiting flow. Your water pump also sounds like it could be the issue. I'd do like Merkava suggested, and check coolant flow in the radiator. With the thermostat open, the coolant should be circulating at a pretty good speed. If not, suspect the water pump.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 
It moves, but around in circles, not flowing the way it should and that is with stat removed. It is either the pump or a head gasket problem.
Oh yea, a "new" rad.
I'm wanting to go with pump since it kinda did it all at once and with no visible leaks anywhere.
 
No, not intermittent.
I am thinking waterpump at this point.
Daughter said it wanted to run hot and when she checked the coolant tonight it was still full.
I am thinking pump is almost gone, just not quite gone all the way.
 
IMHO flush your system a few times, purge the cooling system for trapped air bubbles, check the water pump pulley (I believe it's driven by the timing belt, could be wrong(memory fading)), etc. and then monitor the vehicle for the symptoms again.
 
Yes, the timimg belt runs the WP.
The system was flushed good yesterday when I took the stat out.
Will see what it does tomorrow.
 
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