'88 Ranger Slow Starts When Hot

[badtlc]

The question at hand is regarding a 1988 Ford Ranger with the 2.9L V6. It has an issue where when things are cold (ambient temps 80F or so) it starts normally but when it is hot it will start really slow. Not only does it take longer amount of time, it just seems the engine isn't spinning as fast when it does start. It almost like it sputters while firing initiates and then when it starts the RPMs really shoot up. Any suggestions what might be going bad?

Troubleshooting done so far:
1) Verified battery cable connections were good
2) replaced battery
3) It has all new ignition electronics like distributor, TFI, plugs, etc.

I'm guessing the starter is going bad but the good cold starts are confusing as I dont know much about starters.

 

[Rand]

Fuel leak down?

Do you ever smell gas when its hard to start?

 

[badtlc]

Fuel leak down?

Do you ever smell gas when its hard to start?

No. Even tried letting it prime longer before starting on the hot start. The extra priming didn't make any difference.

 

[HyundaiAbuser]

my 94 b4k did that until i cleaned the maf, give it a try.

 

[Trav]

It sound like possibly a heat soaked starter to me, do an amp draw test on it.

 

[Kansas_Ron]

I am not a fan of where Ford mounted the TFI on the distributor. But if you have owned this vehicle for years you are aware of the history of the TFI. On several vehicles Ford moved them to a cooler location. It could be other things. But I would double check it.

 

[eljefino]

(worn out) starter dragging.

 

[Oliveoil2]

How many ……..miles?

 

[swampdodo]

Don't have any experience with the Rangers, but I can give you info from my experience with a 2000 Cherokee XJ with a somewhat similar problem...

The problem I had with my XJ (miss that thing) was 'vapor lock'...yes, for the lack of a better word, vapor lock on a fuel injected vehicle. On the famous Jeep 4.0L inline 6, the exhaust and intake were on the same side of the engine head with the fuel line above it. After shutting off, the fuel line would get heat soaked and the fuel would vaporize in the line. This would cause prolong starting and rough idle for a few seconds. Jeep even issued an TSB fix by wrapping the fuel line with heat shield wrap.

 

[badtlc]

Don't have any experience with the Rangers, but I can give you info from my experience with a 2000 Cherokee XJ with a somewhat similar problem...

The problem I had with my XJ (miss that thing) was 'vapor lock'...yes, for the lack of a better word, vapor lock on a fuel injected vehicle. On the famous Jeep 4.0L inline 6, the exhaust and intake were on the same side of the engine head with the fuel line above it. After shutting off, the fuel line would get heat soaked and the fuel would vaporize in the line. This would cause prolong starting and rough idle for a few seconds. Jeep even issued an TSB fix by wrapping the fuel line with heat shield wrap.

Would priming longer before starting address a vapor lock situation?

 

[swampdodo]

Would priming longer before starting address a vapor lock situation?

Probably not...because the vapor has to be 'pushed' out of the line first...it needs a way out which is probably the injectors which will open when starting the vehicle.

 

[badtlc]

Sounds like starter heat soak, poor battery cables and vapor lock are items that need to be investigated further.

Thanks everyone.

 

[NutherDriver]

... the vapor has to be 'pushed' out of the line first...it needs a way out which is probably the injectors which will open when starting the vehicle.

That depends. If the fuel line is leak free then pressure in the line is maintained and the fuel may not vaporize before the engine cools. If, however, there's a leak then enough liquid may leak to let pressure drop to below the point where boiling occurs. This could be in the range of a few CCs -- no puddle of gasoline is needed.

My 90's Mitsubishi had the problem of prolonged cranking when hot for a year before I found a leak at the flare nut fitting on the (invisible) bottom of the fuel filter. This leak was only what you get from overtightening -- it barely dripped at all and never made it down the frame rail below there to where there'd be a visible drip to the ground. I found it because I could smell gas in that area and started feeling along the gas line from the fuel rail back to the tank, That hidden flare nut left a slightly wet finger ...

You can buy copper flare nut gaskets in various sizes.

 

[Bitter]

Slow crank or long crank? Slow crank is likely a failing starter, probably pulling a lot of amps when it's hot. Look at the battery voltage drop when cranking cold vs cranking hot to get an idea, if you don't have an amp-clamp to measure the actual amperage.