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Are u sure the US Shell Rotella T Synth is the SAME as the Euro Helix Ultra?
So far I've heard otherwise.
Also, how much more rigorous is the testing for API SL certification vs. ILSAC GF-3 certification? I know GF-3 is targeted at gas engines ... but the Rot T synth is only API SL. It's most likely good enough for all engines. I'd like to see some virgin oil tests as well as 3k and 7k tests.
[ December 16, 2002, 08:33 PM: Message edited by: metroplex ]
So far I've heard otherwise.
Also, how much more rigorous is the testing for API SL certification vs. ILSAC GF-3 certification? I know GF-3 is targeted at gas engines ... but the Rot T synth is only API SL. It's most likely good enough for all engines. I'd like to see some virgin oil tests as well as 3k and 7k tests.
[ December 16, 2002, 08:33 PM: Message edited by: metroplex ]
I've never said that Rotella T Synthetic and Helix Ultra are the same oil. What I HAVE said repeatedly is that they are based on the same base oil, Shell's XHVI. In fact, the Rotella Syn actually has more XHVI in the base oil blend than the 5w40 Helix Ultra sold in drum lots in the US for Ferrari dealers and import shops. However, a quick look at www.shell-helix.de will show you that Shell has already moved to 0w40 in Europe, with 0w30 and 5w30 grades manufactured specifically to meet certain car makers' requirements.
The testing/specs for GF-3 and API SL overlap in all areas except phosphorous and fuel economy requirements. From an additive standpoint, TBN retention, and severe duty capabilities in a gasoline engine, I believe Rotella T Syn can go toe-to-toe with any HD oil out there.
XHVI, Cause you can crank on it a little harder to get that oil tight seal.
Obviously the nylon seal isn't going to provide it without leaking or breaking.
Make sure where the two surfaces meet there are no ridges or deformation after your emergency thread cutting procedure.
Obviously the nylon seal isn't going to provide it without leaking or breaking.
Make sure where the two surfaces meet there are no ridges or deformation after your emergency thread cutting procedure.
Boo. How much over did you have to go? Terry's right, check for burrs. They'll round down and deform the seal surface. Check the washer for compression angles or cuts.
Self-tapping bolts don't make high tolerance threads and they often don't seat squarely. Not knowing how much meat remains, I'd worry about losing the threads entirely while torquing for a seal. As you increase torque you'll be deforming the aluminum threads outward into the washer which could further aggravate the leak if the new threads aren't straight.
Maybe stick with the cheap oil until resolving this. I'm imagining the worst, but dropping the pan and tapping the hole may be needed. Or lots of RTV.
David
Self-tapping bolts don't make high tolerance threads and they often don't seat squarely. Not knowing how much meat remains, I'd worry about losing the threads entirely while torquing for a seal. As you increase torque you'll be deforming the aluminum threads outward into the washer which could further aggravate the leak if the new threads aren't straight.
Maybe stick with the cheap oil until resolving this. I'm imagining the worst, but dropping the pan and tapping the hole may be needed. Or lots of RTV.
David
I think I'd use the softest plug gasket I could find...fiber or aluminum, maybe with some #2 (soft & thick) Permatex on it. Copper is great, but not as soft. I'd never use teflon tape on drain plug threads--scraps remain in the threads and are pushed inside the next time the plug is installed. Anyway, teflon tape is only for tapered pipe threads.
(By the way, does everyone know that to anneal (soften) copper, heat it and quench it in water?...the opposite of steel.)
Ken
(By the way, does everyone know that to anneal (soften) copper, heat it and quench it in water?...the opposite of steel.)
Ken
I looked at the Rotela T this weekend but elected to pass for now. I noted most oil's designed for gasoline engines have ash b/t 0 and up to about 0.9 whereas this Shell has ash at 1.3. (Like most diesel oil's)
Since I've never fully understood why the non diesel oils avoid using the higher ash levels I'm going to assume they have no benefit in a gasoline engine. I'll look forward to some of your analysis.
Since I've never fully understood why the non diesel oils avoid using the higher ash levels I'm going to assume they have no benefit in a gasoline engine. I'll look forward to some of your analysis.
Don't oil drain plugs have a different type thread than regular SAE fine and course? I thought they were pipe thread.
I checked for burrs and made sure the whole was cleaned out. And I also made sure that the bolt seated squarely.
I think the slight leak has been fixed by just snugging up the plug a little more. I just got back from a Christmas party, and I checked with a flash light and the plug was dry, but...keeping my fingers crossed...we'll see how it looks in the morning.
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I'm glad to see you have it resolved. I had this problem before with a self tapping oil plug. I was always nervous about over tightening and stripping the threads with every oil change. That's why I decided to install fumoto drain plugs on all 3 of my vehicles so I shouldn't ever have this problem or have to worry about it. I don't think this is an option for you now, but something to think about for other cars you might have.
The Rotella T would wanna be better than the 5W40 Helix Ultra, the worst performing syn we have Timken tested. Barely matched Pennzoils 10W30 Purebase SL dino. We have tested it many times as were sure it should be better but it gives up without much of a struggle. I'd like to see a virgin analysis of it and see what anti-wear it has. Not an oil I want anywhere near my vehicles thanks!
I certainly haven't seen all oil drain plugs, but I've never seen one with a tapered pipe thread. All the ones I've seen have been a straight thread with square shoulder and a gasket (fiber, or copper, or aluminum, or nylon).
Ken
My VDO temp sender drain plug replacement is tapered thread.
Why not go with a drain valve (assuming you can get it in with no seepage) and solve your plug leaks forever?
Drain plug threads vary. SAE 1/2" and iso 12-14mm are everywhere but they may be SAE, metric, or rarely NPT. Depends on manufacturer. Most European/Japanese vehicles I've seen use metric while American are a mixed bag. Some are plain while others have hashed threads for cleaning obstructions. It's a nightmare out there!
David
David
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