6L90 Transmission Decision

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2018 Silverado 3500HD with 6.0L gasser and 6L90 Transmission. Truck has 155k miles. Meticulous maintenance. Runs like new.

Do you think I should consider replacing the problematic OE torque converter with a billet unit now before it fails or just carry on and see how long I can go with the stock transmission?

I plan to own this truck forever.
 
Letting a 6L80/6L90 converter go nuclear is why it gets so expensive, I can refresh a good unit for $3,000 out the door.

*Billet Front Twin Disc converter
*Sonnax Zip Kit
*New bonded pistons & seals
*All Bushings (Durabond)
*Replace pressure switch membranes
*Spacer plate & checkballs
*OE Borg Warner frictions
*Flush the coolers
*Valvoline Maxlife LV fluid
*Service the T-case
*Tune the TCM with HP-Tuners (TCC scheduling)

At the very least have a billet front converter & a Sonnax Zip Kit installed.
 
If going through the hassle of dropping the transmission to replace the converter then at that point you might as well consider the mileage and decide on finding a reputable shop perform a rebuild with all of the updates especially since you intend to keep it forever.
 
This combo is what my old work truck had in it, and personally I though it was great. My vehicles with the 6L series transmissions also get tuned and I disable commanded TCC slip, only let it apply in gears 4-6 in standard and 3-6 in tow-haul mode. I also modifiy the TCC ramp rate table to bring the converter on faster and harder to limit apply time slip. Clinebarger helped me a few years ago when I was learning what to do to save these units, so all his advice is spot on.
 
2018 Silverado 3500HD with 6.0L gasser and 6L90 Transmission. Truck has 155k miles. Meticulous maintenance. Runs like new.

Do you think I should consider replacing the problematic OE torque converter with a billet unit now before it fails or just carry on and see how long I can go with the stock transmission?

I plan to own this truck forever.
Just one data point. My 6L90 behind my 6.0 on my 2008 3/4 ton Suburban has 260,000 miles. It gets a pan drop every 50,000 miles. Used to tow a 9,000 lb trailer but not any more. The fluid stays a bright red.
 
2018 Silverado 3500HD with 6.0L gasser and 6L90 Transmission. Truck has 155k miles. Meticulous maintenance. Runs like new.

Do you think I should consider replacing the problematic OE torque converter with a billet unit now before it fails or just carry on and see how long I can go with the stock transmission?

I plan to own this truck forever.
What's the problem? Have you scanned the transmission computer for codes?
 
If going through the hassle of dropping the transmission to replace the converter then at that point you might as well consider the mileage and decide on finding a reputable shop perform a rebuild with all of the updates especially since you intend to keep it forever.
That’s a good point. There certain upgrades that can be done to the 6L90 as recommended by Mr. Clinbarger and also in some good Videos on it.
In my case I made it to 260,000 miles with very little clutch material in the pan. The problem now is a rebuild might exceed the value of the vehicle.

There are some things a person can watch for. Drop the pan and look at how much material is on the magnet. If it’s quite fuzzy, you might go for the rebuild and hope most of the hard parts are in good shape. If it has actual metal on the magnetic better get it into the shop. I also cut open the filter with garden shears to see what's in it.

Another telltail might be a delay in the transmission going into reverse. Maybe Mr. @clinebarger can comment if that is a valid sign of an impending failure. Thoughts?
 
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Just one data point. My 6L90 behind my 6.0 on my 2008 3/4 ton Suburban has 260,000 miles. It gets a pan drop every 50,000 miles. Used to tow a 9,000 lb trailer but not any more. The fluid stays a bright red.

How do the magnets look and what fluid are you using?
 
How do the magnets look and what fluid are you using?
Here is what I came across during my pan drop on my 6L90 in 2021. Click on sub title to see the pics. Enjoy.

 
Here is what I came across during my pan drop on my 6L90 in 2021. Click on sub title to see the pics. Enjoy.


Yep, the magnet was definitely doing its job and the pan / fluid looked extremely clean. Good job!

If that was mine I'd be tempted to add magnets (for the fun of it) and reuse the fluid after a pan drop. Did you ever notice any changes after a fluid change?
 
Yep, the magnet was definitely doing its job and the pan / fluid looked extremely clean. Good job!

If that was mine I'd be tempted to add magnets (for the fun of it) and reuse the fluid after a pan drop. Did you ever notice any changes after a fluid change?
To tell the truth I never noticed any change. The old fluid was a slightly darker red but the way it operated did not change.
 
Is there anyone else out there who wants to report on their 6L90’s longevity. Mine has lasted 260,000 miles with a lot of light duty rural driving, some towing in the past but not anymore. Coincidently I have just noticed it sometimes takes a full two seconds for reverse to engage. That is with the transmission cool. Is this something that might be a warning to do a pan drop to check for wear? Opinions?
 
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That’s a good point. There certain upgrades that can be done to the 6L90 as recommended by Mr. Clinbarger and also in some good Videos on it.
In my case I made it to 260,000 miles with very little clutch material in the pan. The problem now is a rebuild might exceed the value of the vehicle.

There are some things a person can watch for. Drop the pan and look at how much material is on the magnet. If it’s quite fuzzy, you might go for the rebuild and hope most of the hard parts are in good shape. If it has actual metal on the magnetic better get it into the shop. I also cut open the filter with garden shears to see what's in it.

Another telltail might be a delay in the transmission going into reverse. Maybe Mr. @clinebarger can comment if that is a valid sign of an impending failure. Thoughts?

'14 & up 6L80/6L90's have a higher converter clutch failure rate & the Pressure Regulator Valve wears faster.

'07-'09 had Stator Support sealing ring issues (1-2-3-4/3-5-R Drum)

Several different tuning calibrations were used over the years.....'07/'08 6L90 were some of the best at not overworking the converter clutch.

The friction weld on the 1-2-3-4/3-5-R Drum can fail on any 6L80/6L90 unit, Seems more common on 6L90's with the drum being physically larger & heavier.....I'm sure pressure spikes from a worn PR Valve doesn't help.

Early '07-'09 unit's tend to fail early or run forever even with less than ideal Stator Support sealing rings.
Mid years '10-'13 are likely the best.
Late unit's '14-'20 are hands down the worst.
 
Letting a 6L80/6L90 converter go nuclear is why it gets so expensive, I can refresh a good unit for $3,000 out the door.

*Billet Front Twin Disc converter
*Sonnax Zip Kit
*New bonded pistons & seals
*All Bushings (Durabond)
*Replace pressure switch membranes
*Spacer plate & checkballs
*OE Borg Warner frictions
*Flush the coolers
*Valvoline Maxlife LV fluid
*Service the T-case
*Tune the TCM with HP-Tuners (TCC scheduling)

At the very least have a billet front converter & a Sonnax Zip Kit installed.
how long does it take?
 
What's the problem? Have you scanned the transmission computer for codes?
No codes, no problems. I'm trying to avoid any catastrophic issues. I do extensive PM on this truck. I'm thinking I'm going to just run it out and see how long she'll run.

And when she blows, I'll buy another upgraded unit at that time.
 
Letting a 6L80/6L90 converter go nuclear is why it gets so expensive, I can refresh a good unit for $3,000 out the door.

*Billet Front Twin Disc converter
*Sonnax Zip Kit
*New bonded pistons & seals
*All Bushings (Durabond)
*Replace pressure switch membranes
*Spacer plate & checkballs
*OE Borg Warner frictions
*Flush the coolers
*Valvoline Maxlife LV fluid
*Service the T-case
*Tune the TCM with HP-Tuners (TCC scheduling)

At the very least have a billet front converter & a Sonnax Zip Kit installed.
If I was planning to keep my truck “forever” and the above is what I would do. $3k is dirt cheap in the grand scheme of things.
 
Is there anyone else out there who wants to report on their 6L90’s longevity. Mine has lasted 260,000 miles with a lot of light duty rural driving, some towing in the past but not anymore. Coincidently I have just noticed it sometimes takes a full two seconds for reverse to engage. That is with the transmission cool. Is this something that might be a warning to do a pan drop to check for wear? Opinions?
Are there any TSBs for this vehicle related to the transmission?
 
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