You said you just got the radiator back and now its running hotter. Coincidence?
65 200 6 mustang running kinda hot
- Thread starter old1
- Start date
If a car overheats at idle and/or around town, suspect air flow across the radiator.
If it overheats on the freeway, suspect radiator efficiency.
This assumes other components are in working order.
You mentioned it happens with or without a thermostat.
The thermostat controls the lower end of the operating temperature, unless it does not open fully.
Having said this, sometimes replacing the thermostat fixes things even though it seems to be OK.
I would never run one of my classics without a 'stat.
As others have stated, a higher a coolant to water ratio can be too viscous and affect cooling.
Please attempt to narrow down overheating conditions.
If it overheats on the freeway, suspect radiator efficiency.
This assumes other components are in working order.
You mentioned it happens with or without a thermostat.
The thermostat controls the lower end of the operating temperature, unless it does not open fully.
Having said this, sometimes replacing the thermostat fixes things even though it seems to be OK.
I would never run one of my classics without a 'stat.
As others have stated, a higher a coolant to water ratio can be too viscous and affect cooling.
Please attempt to narrow down overheating conditions.
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Originally Posted by awguy
Test the radiator cap and it should be 13 lbs and holding correct pressure. You have the wrong thermostat. It should be 195 degrees.
dead wrong
standard tstat for this era ford is 170 . the 195 is a winter ONLY t stat. I drove fords from this era for decades
Test the radiator cap and it should be 13 lbs and holding correct pressure. You have the wrong thermostat. It should be 195 degrees.
dead wrong
standard tstat for this era ford is 170 . the 195 is a winter ONLY t stat. I drove fords from this era for decades
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
If a car overheats at idle and/or around town, suspect air flow across the radiator.
If it overheats on the freeway, suspect radiator efficiency.
This assumes other components are in working order.
You mentioned it happens with or without a thermostat.
The thermostat controls the lower end of the operating temperature, unless it does not open fully.
Having said this, sometimes replacing the thermostat fixes things even though it seems to be OK.
I would never run one of my classics without a 'stat.
As others have stated, a higher a coolant to water ratio can be too viscous and affect cooling.
Please attempt to narrow down overheating conditions.
I remember doing a few cars that had a thermostat that was not opening fast enough or wide enough. The pill was marginal, enough to work but not good enough to work as it should 100%.
If a car overheats at idle and/or around town, suspect air flow across the radiator.
If it overheats on the freeway, suspect radiator efficiency.
This assumes other components are in working order.
You mentioned it happens with or without a thermostat.
The thermostat controls the lower end of the operating temperature, unless it does not open fully.
Having said this, sometimes replacing the thermostat fixes things even though it seems to be OK.
I would never run one of my classics without a 'stat.
As others have stated, a higher a coolant to water ratio can be too viscous and affect cooling.
Please attempt to narrow down overheating conditions.
I remember doing a few cars that had a thermostat that was not opening fast enough or wide enough. The pill was marginal, enough to work but not good enough to work as it should 100%.
Originally Posted by ripcord
It might sound odd, but check your distributor. If the mechanical advance is sticking or the vacuum advance is non operative, the retarded timing can make you run hot.
Edit: I see you posted about that just before me.
Don't be so quick - this is a common problem on these engines.
I have seen many Inline 6-200 Ford engines not get the timing they needed.
And the factory spec is idiotically low - - give it more timing, because they ALWAYS run better.
It might sound odd, but check your distributor. If the mechanical advance is sticking or the vacuum advance is non operative, the retarded timing can make you run hot.
Edit: I see you posted about that just before me.
Don't be so quick - this is a common problem on these engines.
I have seen many Inline 6-200 Ford engines not get the timing they needed.
And the factory spec is idiotically low - - give it more timing, because they ALWAYS run better.
OK, I found at least a large part of the problem. I am SO embarrassed. I had the thermostat in BACKWARDS. Wow of all the thermostats I have changed in my 50 years of working on cars, I have never done that before. I guess old age is creeping up on me faster than I thought. LOL. Actually I am surprised it didn't run hotter than it did.
Originally Posted by old1
OK, I found at least a large part of the problem. I am SO embarrassed. I had the thermostat in BACKWARDS. Wow of all the thermostats I have changed in my 50 years of working on cars, I have never done that before. .
Easy mistake!
OK, I found at least a large part of the problem. I am SO embarrassed. I had the thermostat in BACKWARDS. Wow of all the thermostats I have changed in my 50 years of working on cars, I have never done that before. .
Easy mistake!
Kokopelli34179
$50 site donor 2022
It happens.
Does the engine cool off nicely when you use the heater?
160 degrees is just the opening point for the thermostat 180/ 190 thermo it won't make a differance, after that it up to the cooling system to function properly. 194 isn't hot,
but check the top & bottom of the rad when fully warmed up - you should see a temp drop if the rad is functioning properly.
but check the top & bottom of the rad when fully warmed up - you should see a temp drop if the rad is functioning properly.
Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by old1
OK, I found at least a large part of the problem. I am SO embarrassed. I had the thermostat in BACKWARDS. Wow of all the thermostats I have changed in my 50 years of working on cars, I have never done that before. .
Easy mistake!
+1 I figured quite possible a lazy T stat but not one in backwards.
Originally Posted by old1
OK, I found at least a large part of the problem. I am SO embarrassed. I had the thermostat in BACKWARDS. Wow of all the thermostats I have changed in my 50 years of working on cars, I have never done that before. .
Easy mistake!
+1 I figured quite possible a lazy T stat but not one in backwards.
What's your spark timing? Delayed/retarded spark timing from ideal will cause it run hot due to excessive exhaust gas heat and higher residual cylinder temperatures. This is actually a common cause of overheating with classic cars. I've seen a lot of people switch to high volume water pumps, big 3/4 core radiators, etc... trying to keep the heat down when something as simple as moving the vacuum spark advance from ported to manifold fixed the problem.
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Originally Posted by old1
OK, I found at least a large part of the problem. I am SO embarrassed. I had the thermostat in BACKWARDS. Wow of all the thermostats I have changed in my 50 years of working on cars, I have never done that before. I guess old age is creeping up on me faster than I thought. LOL. Actually I am surprised it didn't run hotter than it did.
Yup, it happens Surprised the good earlier posts didn't mention this. On most later cars, this would never happen. The design of the t stat and t stat housing is such that it will only fit the correct way.
OK, I found at least a large part of the problem. I am SO embarrassed. I had the thermostat in BACKWARDS. Wow of all the thermostats I have changed in my 50 years of working on cars, I have never done that before. I guess old age is creeping up on me faster than I thought. LOL. Actually I am surprised it didn't run hotter than it did.
Yup, it happens Surprised the good earlier posts didn't mention this. On most later cars, this would never happen. The design of the t stat and t stat housing is such that it will only fit the correct way.
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I know the feeling , when you make a simple mistake . :-(
But , congrats on getting that figured out !
But , congrats on getting that figured out !
Originally Posted by awguy
Test the radiator cap and it should be 13 lbs and holding correct pressure. You have the wrong thermostat. It should be 195 degrees.
The cap itself will not cause it to run hot. Pressurizing the system raises the boiling point only.
Test the radiator cap and it should be 13 lbs and holding correct pressure. You have the wrong thermostat. It should be 195 degrees.
The cap itself will not cause it to run hot. Pressurizing the system raises the boiling point only.
First off, are you sure the car used to run cooler? 194 does not seem much out of the ordinary. A quick check on Google says cars run 195-220.....that's why radiators have pressurized caps.
Most posters here are recommending bigger radiator, larger fans etc. But let's go back. At one time, not long ago, the OP stated, the car used to run cooler. So we have to assume, "something's changed". Starting from that assumption, the most logical path is to try and determine what has changed, not start changing parts. Since the car runs the same with no thermostat, you can eliminate that. You stated the radiator is been gone through, so all that's left (asuming the fan is running properly) would be to look at the amount of heat the engine is generating. Something has changed there. And running vinegar through the motor will not solve the issue. Your coolant is getting hot, so the transfer of heat from the block to the coolant is happening.
The second area to look is the flow of coolant through the system. Is there a blockage?
I would be looking at the vacuum advance some more or perhaps a slightly lean condition in the carburetor. I would also look closely at the hoses on the radiator for restricting flow of coolant.
Most posters here are recommending bigger radiator, larger fans etc. But let's go back. At one time, not long ago, the OP stated, the car used to run cooler. So we have to assume, "something's changed". Starting from that assumption, the most logical path is to try and determine what has changed, not start changing parts. Since the car runs the same with no thermostat, you can eliminate that. You stated the radiator is been gone through, so all that's left (asuming the fan is running properly) would be to look at the amount of heat the engine is generating. Something has changed there. And running vinegar through the motor will not solve the issue. Your coolant is getting hot, so the transfer of heat from the block to the coolant is happening.
The second area to look is the flow of coolant through the system. Is there a blockage?
I would be looking at the vacuum advance some more or perhaps a slightly lean condition in the carburetor. I would also look closely at the hoses on the radiator for restricting flow of coolant.
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I think OP stated it ran hot even with the thermostat removed. So perhaps there is more to this story.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
What's your spark timing? Delayed/retarded spark timing from ideal will cause it run hot due to excessive exhaust gas heat and higher residual cylinder temperatures. This is actually a common cause of overheating with classic cars. I've seen a lot of people switch to high volume water pumps, big 3/4 core radiators, etc... trying to keep the heat down when something as simple as moving the vacuum spark advance from ported to manifold fixed the problem.
Best advice yet. Check points and adjust as specified. Unplug vacuum advance and adjust initial timing as specified. Reinstall vacuum hose (manifold vacuum) and adjust carb. Always in this order.
What's your spark timing? Delayed/retarded spark timing from ideal will cause it run hot due to excessive exhaust gas heat and higher residual cylinder temperatures. This is actually a common cause of overheating with classic cars. I've seen a lot of people switch to high volume water pumps, big 3/4 core radiators, etc... trying to keep the heat down when something as simple as moving the vacuum spark advance from ported to manifold fixed the problem.
Best advice yet. Check points and adjust as specified. Unplug vacuum advance and adjust initial timing as specified. Reinstall vacuum hose (manifold vacuum) and adjust carb. Always in this order.
Originally Posted by philipp10
First off, are you sure the car used to run cooler? 194 does not seem much out of the ordinary. A quick check on Google says cars run 195-220.....that's why radiators have pressurized caps.
Most posters here are recommending bigger radiator, larger fans etc. But let's go back. At one time, not long ago, the OP stated, the car used to run cooler. So we have to assume, "something's changed". Starting from that assumption, the most logical path is to try and determine what has changed, not start changing parts. Since the car runs the same with no thermostat, you can eliminate that. You stated the radiator is been gone through, so all that's left (asuming the fan is running properly) would be to look at the amount of heat the engine is generating. Something has changed there. And running vinegar through the motor will not solve the issue. Your coolant is getting hot, so the transfer of heat from the block to the coolant is happening.
The second area to look is the flow of coolant through the system. Is there a blockage?
I would be looking at the vacuum advance some more or perhaps a slightly lean condition in the carburetor. I would also look closely at the hoses on the radiator for restricting flow of coolant.
Some of you guys have more egg on your face than the OP.
It is a 1965 car. "Google check says" .....................? Get serious, modern emissions cars run much hotter than old designs.
The OP found what he did wrong, corrected it, and posted it.
Posting without reading the other posts is not a good idea.
First off, are you sure the car used to run cooler? 194 does not seem much out of the ordinary. A quick check on Google says cars run 195-220.....that's why radiators have pressurized caps.
Most posters here are recommending bigger radiator, larger fans etc. But let's go back. At one time, not long ago, the OP stated, the car used to run cooler. So we have to assume, "something's changed". Starting from that assumption, the most logical path is to try and determine what has changed, not start changing parts. Since the car runs the same with no thermostat, you can eliminate that. You stated the radiator is been gone through, so all that's left (asuming the fan is running properly) would be to look at the amount of heat the engine is generating. Something has changed there. And running vinegar through the motor will not solve the issue. Your coolant is getting hot, so the transfer of heat from the block to the coolant is happening.
The second area to look is the flow of coolant through the system. Is there a blockage?
I would be looking at the vacuum advance some more or perhaps a slightly lean condition in the carburetor. I would also look closely at the hoses on the radiator for restricting flow of coolant.
Some of you guys have more egg on your face than the OP.
It is a 1965 car. "Google check says" .....................? Get serious, modern emissions cars run much hotter than old designs.
The OP found what he did wrong, corrected it, and posted it.
Posting without reading the other posts is not a good idea.
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