600 class sportbike...
- Thread starter Bret Chase
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not revving above 6000 rpm for how long? The dude at the dealership just told me to take it easy on it for the first 100 miles, which I'm going to do. I need to buy the fsm for it.
That seems like overkill but you just don't want to run an oil with high metal ppm with new engine. It is up to the owner.
I have had four MC's and have done like:
150, 300, 600, 1200, 2500 miles and then switched to syn oil.
I have never done over 6000 rpm for first 1000 miles nd then slowly increased it as miles were built up on the motor. It is believed that by 6k miles you are done but that might be too much for most people. There are other groups that feel after 600 miles you need to let go of it if performance is the criteria rather than long term durability. I have never followed manufacturer recomendations for break-in and oil change.
Here is good link for break-in:
http://www.919.org/breakin.htm
I have had four MC's and have done like:
150, 300, 600, 1200, 2500 miles and then switched to syn oil.
I have never done over 6000 rpm for first 1000 miles nd then slowly increased it as miles were built up on the motor. It is believed that by 6k miles you are done but that might be too much for most people. There are other groups that feel after 600 miles you need to let go of it if performance is the criteria rather than long term durability. I have never followed manufacturer recomendations for break-in and oil change.
Here is good link for break-in:
http://www.919.org/breakin.htm
Just go ride and enjoy. Don't baby it and don't beat on it. Don't lug it around but don't hold it wfo for 5 miles either.
If there's any highspots or peaks that need to be worn away (break-in), you don't want to polish them so they are harder to remove (result of too ez ridng). On the other hand you don't want to try and shear them away with a lot of heat and pressure. They may shear, but if they don't, they can scuff or scratch the mating surface (result of too hard of break-in). Kind of like sanding on some wood. Light pressure polishes but doesn't take down the high spots very well. Hard pressure get everything leveled out but doesn't result in the smoothest surface. happiness is somewhere in the middle.
If there's any highspots or peaks that need to be worn away (break-in), you don't want to polish them so they are harder to remove (result of too ez ridng). On the other hand you don't want to try and shear them away with a lot of heat and pressure. They may shear, but if they don't, they can scuff or scratch the mating surface (result of too hard of break-in). Kind of like sanding on some wood. Light pressure polishes but doesn't take down the high spots very well. Hard pressure get everything leveled out but doesn't result in the smoothest surface. happiness is somewhere in the middle.
limiting my 14krpm 250cc engine to 6k rpm would simply remove any and all joy in riding it.. I've more or less been keeping it under 9k or so (minus those few bursts to 12k) and run it ~6k tooling around town.
remember... it's not a 600, there is no torque down low... at all.
remember... it's not a 600, there is no torque down low... at all.
Should be stickers on the tach and tank saying what the operating limits are. Will also be in the owners manual. For the 500, it's 4,000 RPM limit for a certain number of miles then a 6,000 RPM limit out to 1,000 miles.
If the stickers are not there and you have no manual, I'm sure you can find out on ninja250.com
If the stickers are not there and you have no manual, I'm sure you can find out on ninja250.com
And the low break-in rpm limits are a price you pay for having a new bike. Leads to the anticipation of being able to enjoy the power later. Something I've never had to worry about. Lowest miles I've had were 1,200 miles on the Concours. I was quite happy to not need to baby it, but to have a basically new bike...
I picked up my manual today... ugh... looks like I've got a buttload of putt-putting around to do
I did find out that you are supposed to keep the Ninja 250 below 4,000 RPM for 500 miles and below 6k for 1,000, just like the 500.
There is a lot of debate over weather that is reasonable or not, but the fact remains that that is what Kawasaki recommends.
There is a lot of debate over weather that is reasonable or not, but the fact remains that that is what Kawasaki recommends.
That's what they say in all their manuals regardless of engine size, type, configuration, rpm redline. Its' generic advise at best, but sometimes, when in doubt go with what the OEM wants. Then later you can second guess them on the oil to use, LOL.
Well I for one think it sucks... it's not like it's the 7krpm 250CC in the KLX.. that one would at least be useable staying under 4k during break-in. I tried keeping the 250R under 4k while driving around the complex.. yay... I'm not sure it'd even be safe in traffic keeping the rpm's that low.
maybe it's just me, but keeping that engine to under 4k for 500 miles just seems asinine...
maybe it's just me, but keeping that engine to under 4k for 500 miles just seems asinine...
I never did it Bret, after about 40 mi. I started to open it up little by little. At 300 mi. I was riding it to work and running steady 7k to 8k. This bikes runs excellent and has never used any oil. I got over 4k now.........I changed oil at 350, had some old castrol gtx sg around and used it. changed it twice in 2900 mi. The last change, last fall, I put in Ams #AFF 0w-40. Great stuff for the cold weather. So far has not used a drop that I can tell. I have never run past 12k rpm and only did it once. I only usually take to 10k. Thats all I need 
.
Jeff
.Jeff
Break-in supposed to be fun imo. It is part of a new bike ownership experience. But to avoid inconvenience it has to be planned. Again for long term consideration, I wouldn't push the bike IF POSSIBLE. There are situations that you have to.. but try not to. A well broken engine not only lasts longer, it runs better and performs better with better MPG.
As a rule of thumb, I would keep the RPM below 50% and try not to burst only revving it up without pushing it. Now if you need to go higher fine as long as it is a thing you do with it consistently. After 600 miles 75% RPM should the limit for another 1000 miles and then slowly build it up.
It is not really a bid deal to most but it is good to know anyway and going thru it is not mandatory but recommended..
As a rule of thumb, I would keep the RPM below 50% and try not to burst only revving it up without pushing it. Now if you need to go higher fine as long as it is a thing you do with it consistently. After 600 miles 75% RPM should the limit for another 1000 miles and then slowly build it up.
It is not really a bid deal to most but it is good to know anyway and going thru it is not mandatory but recommended..
50% and 75% is far more reasonable than the perscribed 28% (4k) and 42% (6k). the 50% (7k) is pretty much what I've been trying to keep it under, which is doable..
the break in interval does seem incredibly long to me though, esp with the rpm range the engine is intended to run at.
what do you guys run for oil in your sport bikes?
the break in interval does seem incredibly long to me though, esp with the rpm range the engine is intended to run at.
what do you guys run for oil in your sport bikes?
Oil.. Try Motul 3k series. 3100 can be had for under $5 a qt. It is on expensive side but it is a good oil.
I had my 919 broken in with Valvoline MC 10w40 dino and was getting about 45 mpg consistently. At 600 switched to Motul 10W40 cause a friend insisted. Lo and behold, the engine got silky, tanny smoooth and mpg has increased to a unbelievable 75. It is true. Next time I will use Motul 5100 for a kick.
I had my 919 broken in with Valvoline MC 10w40 dino and was getting about 45 mpg consistently. At 600 switched to Motul 10W40 cause a friend insisted. Lo and behold, the engine got silky, tanny smoooth and mpg has increased to a unbelievable 75. It is true. Next time I will use Motul 5100 for a kick.
I have a 2007 919 with about 300 miles on it. I was thinking about letting the dealership do the first change at 600 miles and take over from then on.I was also thinking about the Amsoil 10 40 when I do swicht to a synthetic oil. Where you getting your Motul at ?? I do have to question the 45 mpg to 75 mpg part. Hope Im not sounding like a a$$ by saying that. But that is nearly duobleing the mpg . Alittle bit of Elf magic
Where would I find Motul? the local Kawai dealer doesn't stock much more than the bikes.. they push their artic cat sleds big time though (even though it's summer). I was looking at the local WM super center and they've got M1 motorcycle for like $9/qt (good thing it only takes 2 qts I guess).
Put in 1&3/4 Bret and check yr site glass. Oil and filter.
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