currently running SAE 30 royal purple in my 6 hp briggs push mower. satisfied with the oil, no cpmplaints but have heard bad things about royal purple, so i was wondering, would it be okay to run german castrol 0W30 or amsoil 5W30 in it? ive heard many good things about GC 0W30 in auto engines just want to make sure its ok for my push mower.
6 hp briggs
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LOL this takes oil obsession to a new level
But honestly I'm just as anal about it as you are. Royal Purple is an awesome oil, so is GC, and definitely Amsoil. Most push mowers get cheap dino junk, in a lot of cases never changed and topped off way later than it should have been and run for years. Briggs engines will just run and run as long as there is something slippery in the crankcase.
I find 5w30 conventionals burn off in every Briggs engine I've had in hot weather. Straight weight dino, or multigrade synthetic very little if any consumption.
What do you use in your car, and truck? I'd just use one of those since you already have it. If your lawnmower is getting top notch synthetics like these I'm sure your vehicles are getting the best, and change it once a year. Assuming the deck doesn't rust away your great grandchildren could still be using that lawnmower
I find 5w30 conventionals burn off in every Briggs engine I've had in hot weather. Straight weight dino, or multigrade synthetic very little if any consumption.
What do you use in your car, and truck? I'd just use one of those since you already have it. If your lawnmower is getting top notch synthetics like these I'm sure your vehicles are getting the best, and change it once a year. Assuming the deck doesn't rust away your great grandchildren could still be using that lawnmower
pidster, i use Mobil 1 5W30 in my car and shell rotella 15W40 in my '96 dodge cummins. thats what id like for that mower to last a very long time, the deck on it is a swisher aluminum deck that my parents bought in 1983, its been cut and modified over the yars but still in excellent condition, not the original engine but i think the deck can last a good 20+ more years. so would running a 0W30 or a 5W30 hurt the engine in any way? i think it would just help it and not affect it negatively
Last spring I started using Pennzoil conventional HD-30 in the 6.5 hp Briggs that's on my Toro push mower. Prior to that I was using whatever dino XW-30 I had laying around. I prefer the HD-30 and didn't notice any burn off after last year's approximate 35 hours of use.
I am running Rotella straight 30 wt in my Briggs. No burnoff, runs great! Was rated SJ but no longer is as that rating is no longer supoorted but the oil chemistry has not changed.
There are two ways to make multi-grade oils. Conventional oils start off with a base that is the low number and add modifiers to get the high number. In demanding applications like air cooled engines those modifiers break down and the oil loosed some of the upper viscosity.
A true synthetic like GC starts off with a synthetic base that is the upper number, and because it is a synthetic the lower number is simply the property of that oil when it is cold. Because these types of oils have no modifiers they do not shear in demanding applications. Therefore they maintain there viscosity in demanding applications like air cooled engines. This is also why many air cooled engines recommend a straight (mono) weight oil.
If you are going to use a conventional oil you are better off with a mono weight.
Be careful about how you think about oils, for demanding applications like air cold engines, GC being a 0w30 true full synthetic oil is much better than a 5w30 conventional, or a 10w30 conventional.
A true synthetic like GC starts off with a synthetic base that is the upper number, and because it is a synthetic the lower number is simply the property of that oil when it is cold. Because these types of oils have no modifiers they do not shear in demanding applications. Therefore they maintain there viscosity in demanding applications like air cooled engines. This is also why many air cooled engines recommend a straight (mono) weight oil.
If you are going to use a conventional oil you are better off with a mono weight.
Be careful about how you think about oils, for demanding applications like air cold engines, GC being a 0w30 true full synthetic oil is much better than a 5w30 conventional, or a 10w30 conventional.
Originally Posted By: pidster
LOL this takes oil obsession to a new level
LOL i save my empty lubromoly mos2 bottle and i put fresh oil in it, swirl it around and get a lot of the moly left for my pushmower and 4cycle weedeater!
LOL this takes oil obsession to a new level
LOL i save my empty lubromoly mos2 bottle and i put fresh oil in it, swirl it around and get a lot of the moly left for my pushmower and 4cycle weedeater!
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
A true synthetic like GC starts off with a synthetic base that is the upper number, and because it is a synthetic the lower number is simply the property of that oil when it is cold. Because these types of oils have no modifiers they do not shear in demanding applications. Therefore they maintain there viscosity in demanding applications like air cooled engines. This is also why many air cooled engines recommend a straight (mono) weight oil.
While there are some synthetic oils that use no VIIs, I'm pretty sure GC isn't one of them.
A true synthetic like GC starts off with a synthetic base that is the upper number, and because it is a synthetic the lower number is simply the property of that oil when it is cold. Because these types of oils have no modifiers they do not shear in demanding applications. Therefore they maintain there viscosity in demanding applications like air cooled engines. This is also why many air cooled engines recommend a straight (mono) weight oil.
While there are some synthetic oils that use no VIIs, I'm pretty sure GC isn't one of them.
I used Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 in my 6HP Briggs with good results, didn't burn off like the HD30 did.
I agree with the poster that said you would get rid of the mower long before any oil system problems. This is true. I had lots of fuel system problems with mine, even using gas stabilizer. The mower would start fine cold but it would start cutting out when hot, I would have to reach over and press the primer bulb to keep it going. I rebuilt the carb once, then bought a Honda. Much happier with the Honda mower.
I agree with the poster that said you would get rid of the mower long before any oil system problems. This is true. I had lots of fuel system problems with mine, even using gas stabilizer. The mower would start fine cold but it would start cutting out when hot, I would have to reach over and press the primer bulb to keep it going. I rebuilt the carb once, then bought a Honda. Much happier with the Honda mower.
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