As for the warranty for using sr8t 30W is fine as long as it meets GM6094 it says that in the manual.
5W30
- Thread starter dmproske
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Even looking at all of the used oil analysis and other data here. Is there ANY hard evidence that it really matters what the weight of the oil is? As long as it has a good ad pack, it seems that you can use anything from 0W20 to 20W50 in your engine and be just fine. If it "feels" good, why not use it?
OTOH, I cant see ANY reason that straight 30W would be the optimum choice for an engine.
OTOH, I cant see ANY reason that straight 30W would be the optimum choice for an engine.
I aggree with winston but use whatever makes you happy.
Here is GM's PDF of Registered Products for Warranty on 2005 Gasoline Engine Oil Requirements covering both GM6094M and GM4718.
This list is from April 2005, but continually updated without notice. I'm supprised any Amsoil or GC are not there.
http://www.gmtechlink.com/images/issues/ref_gds/synthgd.pdf
Bowser "Grease for Peace"
This list is from April 2005, but continually updated without notice. I'm supprised any Amsoil or GC are not there.
http://www.gmtechlink.com/images/issues/ref_gds/synthgd.pdf
Bowser "Grease for Peace"
The finger test lets you feel the viscosity at maybe 30 degrees C, depending on how warm your fingers are at the time. Oils are tested at the boiling point of water, so it's hard to do a finger test like that.
1) Without API-licensing, I doubt GM would approve. I would have thought Amsoil would try to get their XL series GM approved.
2) There's 5W-20 on their list? Since when?
Psssst. After I sell my stock in Ashland I will tell you all about it.quote:
Originally posted by 427Z06:
TallPaul, someday your going to have to explain to me your fetish for Valvoline products.
EDIT: Whoops, that was supposed to be a PM to 427Z06 only.
VERY hard!!
I'm sure 30wt will serve an engine just fine in warm climates, why not juse use 15w40 and be done with it??
If the temperatures stay above freezing, you probably won't hurt anything but fuel economy if you do a lot of short trips. Of course your going to be out of warranty compliance. You probably want to seriously consider 5w-10w30 for the colder six months. Don't know if they put the same amount of rocket science into the single grades as they do the multigrades.
A major issue here, is that Havoline SAE 30HD is not on the GM 6094M Approved Oil List .
But, then again, neither is GC 0W-30, Amsoil 5w30 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30, all likely candidates that I'm sure someone will recommend for this application, as an alternative to SAE 30.
I googled the weather for Katy, Texas, and the 5 day forecast is for lows of 75F and highs of 94-98F.
Here's a viscosity question to ponder:
Which application will generate more cold start wear tommorrow morning?
- Dmproske starting his 05 GMC Envoy on Havoline SAE 30 @ 75F in Katy TX.
- MinnBob starting a 05 GMC Envoy on Havoline 5w30 @ 62F in Brainerd, Minnesota.
But, then again, neither is GC 0W-30, Amsoil 5w30 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30, all likely candidates that I'm sure someone will recommend for this application, as an alternative to SAE 30.
I googled the weather for Katy, Texas, and the 5 day forecast is for lows of 75F and highs of 94-98F.
Here's a viscosity question to ponder:
Which application will generate more cold start wear tommorrow morning?
- Dmproske starting his 05 GMC Envoy on Havoline SAE 30 @ 75F in Katy TX.
- MinnBob starting a 05 GMC Envoy on Havoline 5w30 @ 62F in Brainerd, Minnesota.
insignificant,
the whole viscosity thing is blown way out of proportion.
like was originally said,
if the placement of the oil filter makes you go hmmm, then I wouldn't put too much stock into manufacturer recommendations and requirements.
Common sense of the owner will make the vehicle last, not the manufacturer recommendations/requirements and certainly not dealer performed maintenance.
the whole viscosity thing is blown way out of proportion.
like was originally said,
if the placement of the oil filter makes you go hmmm, then I wouldn't put too much stock into manufacturer recommendations and requirements.
Common sense of the owner will make the vehicle last, not the manufacturer recommendations/requirements and certainly not dealer performed maintenance.
Actually I suspect most SAE 30 oils are HDMO, but again Maxlife SAE 30 should have all the same rocket science as multigrade Maxlife, including the 12-22% PAO.
I'd like to know how straight 30 will sheer down when there are no viscosity improver polymers to sheer. Do you mean the actual oil molecules will sheer into a thinner weight?
Really? I always thought the straight-weight conventional oils were more shear-stable compared to a multi-weight conventional oil.
Didn't take long to get the 15w40 endorsement...Why not run to your local Harley davidson dealer and pick up some straight 60w,I bet the finger test will show this to be a "real" oil...
Again what is the fascination of upping the lower number of your chosen oil's weight other than shear stability???? Is a 10,15,20w oil gonna really help your engine when starting and warming up??? I really can't see how,the more the flow of oil the better IMHO...
Again what is the fascination of upping the lower number of your chosen oil's weight other than shear stability???? Is a 10,15,20w oil gonna really help your engine when starting and warming up??? I really can't see how,the more the flow of oil the better IMHO...
I have a four month old Silverado with the 4.3 liter V6 and almost 12K miles on the clock. I've run Pennzoil 5W30 since first changing-out the factory fill at 1,500 miles.
My wear numbers, according to my first UOA at approx. 9,100 miles, were incredibly low. The oil had been in for approx. 4,200 miles and had sheared down to a 20-weight in that time.
I'm planning to puch my OCIs out to 5K miles and stay with Pennzoil 5W30. I don't understand why everyone has an issue with this weight - if it is recommended for fuel mileage reasons, it still seems to do a decent job of protecting against wear.
What's the big deal?
My wear numbers, according to my first UOA at approx. 9,100 miles, were incredibly low. The oil had been in for approx. 4,200 miles and had sheared down to a 20-weight in that time.
I'm planning to puch my OCIs out to 5K miles and stay with Pennzoil 5W30. I don't understand why everyone has an issue with this weight - if it is recommended for fuel mileage reasons, it still seems to do a decent job of protecting against wear.
What's the big deal?
TallPaul, you asked where I got 20w-40 . . .
I am talking years ago when I did a lot of off road and trailer hauling with an old International Scout. Kendall had a good 20w-40 which was readily available here in East Tennessee. It did a good job in that big ol' V-8, but certainly I do not need that in my present L4 Volvo engines!
I am talking years ago when I did a lot of off road and trailer hauling with an old International Scout. Kendall had a good 20w-40 which was readily available here in East Tennessee. It did a good job in that big ol' V-8, but certainly I do not need that in my present L4 Volvo engines!
You drained HOT oil, and freaked outbecause it looked and felt like water. Again, that's the way any 30wt oil looks and feels when it's hot. (operating temp)
Then you felt the good old sae 30wt at ROOM TEMP and thought "Oh yea, that's the stuff, now thats oil". Any Xw-30 oil would have felt the same at room temp!!
The next time you change your oil, make sure the engine is up to temp (hot oil) and you'll see that the good old sae 30wt looks and feels "just like water" also.
QUOTE]
I'm sure this is dumb question, but shouldn't multi weight oils thicken when hotter, and thin when cooled (hence a 5W for cold starts and 30W for high temp). so why is it that hot oil drains like water and cool oil drains thick like honey?
The 5w number is completely and totally not comparable to the other number. the xxW number is derived from a cold cranking simulator test; the other number is the kinematic viscosity at 212 degrees F. ANY fluid for the most part thins as it gets hotter and thickens when it gets cold. Motor oil gets hundreds of times more viscous when it gets cold compared to when it's hot and at operating temperature. So, 5w30 means that the oil passes the 5w cold cranking test (meaning it cranks less than 7,000 Cp at -30 degrees C) and it has an operating temperature viscosity in the 30 weight range (9.3Cst to like 12.3 Cst? or something like that).
"The 5w number is completely and totally not comparable to the other number. the xxW number is derived from a cold cranking simulator test; the other number is the kinematic viscosity at 212 degrees F. ANY fluid for the most part thins as it gets hotter and thickens when it gets cold. Motor oil gets hundreds of times more viscous when it gets cold compared to when it's hot and at operating temperature. So, 5w30 means that the oil passes the 5w cold cranking test (meaning it cranks less than 7,000 Cp at -30 degrees C) and it has an operating temperature viscosity in the 30 weight range (9.3Cst to like 12.3 Cst? or something like that)".
Yea, what he said.
Darryl
Yea, what he said.
Darryl
Pontiac 326-455 CID from the 1970's.
Main bearings:
Clearance #1,2,3,4 .0005" - .003"
#5 .002" - .0035"
Connecting rod bearings:
Clearance .0009" - .0029"
Chevy Street 350 CID
Main bearings:
Clearance #1, .0008" - .002"
2,3,4 .0011" - .0023"
#5 .0017" - .0032"
Connecting rod bearings:
Clearance .0013" - .0035"
1989 Toyota 7M-GTE
Main bearings:
Clearance .0012-.0019
Connecting rod bearings:
Clearance .0008-.0021
2002 Honda V6
Main bearings:
Clearance .0008-.0017
Connecting rod bearings:
Clearance .0008-.0017
2005 Chevy LS2
Main bearings:
Clearance .0008-.0021
Connecting rod bearings:
Clearance .0009-.0025
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