hey guys do any of you switch from 5w30 in the winter to 10w30 in the summer? i use mobile 1 syn (for now) in 5w30.. the motor is a little chattery and i am not sure if its bc the viscosity of the 5w30 has thinned (5500 miles on oil now with yota oem filter) i was going to go up to 10w30 to see if it quietens a bit. what do you guys think?
5w30 and 10w30 weather conditions
- Thread starter mikeg5
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Actually, the M1 10W30 is quite a bit thinner at op. temps than the M1 5w30. See the spec sheets on M1 web site. The 10w30 has visc. of 10 at 100degC. The 5w30 has visc. 11.3. Indeed, the 10w30 is getting close to a 20wt oil, while the 5w30 is very much in the 30wt range (at op. temps).
Tricksie stuff.
Tricksie stuff.
Personally, I noticed my engine was a bit noisier with M1. I havent looked back yet when I switched from syn back to dino. I'm currently running Tropartic in my Taco. It's nice and quiet, however I can hear the sound of my fuel injectors firing off. Nothing to worry about though, its normal. My next fill I'm going to try Pennz Plat in the 5w30 flavor. IMO, stick with the 5w30 year round.
And this whole "noise" issue is a mystery to me. The guys that did the oil life study on Neptune said as the Amsoil thickened to close to a 40wt, that their Camero got "noisy". Others say thin oils cause noise. I suppose it depends on the engine. (?)
Try M1 0W-40 as an experiment. As a plus, it has a really big nut-sack. I mean it is a truly long life oil.
yeah i am close to quiting synthetics in the motor all together. you really dont need it unless its a high performance engine (esp in toyotas unless its a sludge monster and my tacoma is not one) and i am good at changing the oil at 5k miles and i use good filters.. what kinds of dino oil do you guys run in the yotas? esp the 3.4's?? i may just go to castrol gtx bc i use that in my girls yota 4 cylinder and they put up good numbers (comparible to castrols blend AND syns)
Have the 3.4L V6 - we're running GTX 5w-30/Napa Gold filter; we'll have a uoa in a few weeks.
hey Ramblin, will you shoot me a pm and let me know how that goes?? i would greatly appreciate it! how many miles are you running the gtx? you should go to 5k miles. 3k mile oil changes in yotas (esp that motor) is a waste thanks man
I often switch to 10W-30 oils in the summers here instead of 5W-30 for my 5W-30 spec cars and I'm also known to run 5W-30 in the summer in my nominally 5W-20 speced vehicles.
With reasonable OCIs and at near legal driving speeds it probably doesn't matter much one way or the other.
I'm also a believer that good modern conventional oils are more than sufficient for most situations. Now a turbocharged car in Alberta Canada winters, for sure I would use synthetic. A mild mannered stock Honda in California, conventional oils are up to the job.
With reasonable OCIs and at near legal driving speeds it probably doesn't matter much one way or the other.
I'm also a believer that good modern conventional oils are more than sufficient for most situations. Now a turbocharged car in Alberta Canada winters, for sure I would use synthetic. A mild mannered stock Honda in California, conventional oils are up to the job.
Heck, this 3.4L could probably go 6k easy on any oil.
I will stick to 5k only, however, on regular oil.
If, in say 2yrs, I start running a HDEO in it, I will go to probably 7-9k - depending.
I will stick to 5k only, however, on regular oil.
If, in say 2yrs, I start running a HDEO in it, I will go to probably 7-9k - depending.
currently using PENNZOIL ( Yellow Bottle ) 5w-30 in the '07 PRIUS for 1st oil change and hasn't used a drop as of yet . As for the 2000 Chevy PRIZM ( Corolla ) we were using PLATINUM 5w-30 ( ate that up , probably due to high mileage , motor route on weekend , but engine was much quieter w/ revs , hills , highway speeds ) , so switched to the PENNZIOL S.U.V., Mini-Van and Truck Synthetic Blend in a 5w-30 and has consumed little less ( topped of only once so far w/ regular PENNZOIL leftover from PRIUS oil change ) . Eventually will most likey go back to dino .
I don't see much difference between 5W-30 and 10W-30. They are both the same thickness when fully hot; it's just that 5W-30 is thinner when cold. But no oil is thin enough when cold anyway. The ideal oil would remain at 10 cSt for all temperatures, but we all know that's impossible.
ill probably get castrol syntec blend next time and see how that goes for 5k miles. these yota motors are pretty tough and i kind of dont justify using mobile 1 syn when i can buy something half that price and still do the 5k miles at about the same wear. if i dont like it, go back to mobile 1 syn
I'm with markava on this. Just stay with 5w-30 yr. round. There really is no benefit to 10w-30 in your case.
0W30 in winter, 5W30 and 10W30 in summer.
0W-30 would be great but is it really needed in North Carolina winters?
I have switched from Syntec to GTX with no apparent change in engine dynamics what so ever.
I wonder if this new SM classifacation has rendered synthetics null and void with the exception of extreme cold and high horse applications.
In 99% of pushrod engines a name brand SM dino oil is all that's necessary unless one is shooting for long OCI's.
I have run GTX in my 4.3 V6 for 25,000 miles, after running Mobil 1 from new and the inside of the engine still looks assembly line new.
Never thought I'd see the day I'd give up M1 but equal performance at less than half price was what did it. Cheers DV
I wonder if this new SM classifacation has rendered synthetics null and void with the exception of extreme cold and high horse applications.
In 99% of pushrod engines a name brand SM dino oil is all that's necessary unless one is shooting for long OCI's.
I have run GTX in my 4.3 V6 for 25,000 miles, after running Mobil 1 from new and the inside of the engine still looks assembly line new.
Never thought I'd see the day I'd give up M1 but equal performance at less than half price was what did it. Cheers DV
Probably not.
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