Why go over 5k with MC>5w20.Its just as cheap as dino so just change it out at 5k.
5w20...It works
- Thread starter Bryanccfshr
- Start date
- Status
I think you're letting a cherished belief/opinion color your view of the facts. The universal average for this car is 5 ppm. He "crept up" from 1 ppm to 3 ppm going to GC, as we all know, a thicker 30 wt oil. That level stayed the same on his first run of 20 wt oil, and has been going ever so slightly lower since. Additionally, in perspective, these numbers represent miniscule amounts of bearing wear. If lead from bearings were the ONLY factor determining the life of a car, I suspect this one would live longer than the G-Man would want to keep it.
It is not that simple. An SJ 5W30 shears down to a 20 weight very quickly. The new SM 5W20 weight oils do not shear.
Bryans new manual confirms it. That manuals recommendation for 5W20 up to 100 deg F is the first modification that Mitsu has done to their manual in 20 years. Mitsus oil recommendation has always been 5W30 to 100F and 10W30 if you go above 100F. Now they approve 5W20 up to 100F. It sounds like their engineers are confirming that the old 5W30 oils are the same as the new 5W20 oils.
I have a '89 MR2 1.6L with 103K miles. I think that the original specs were for 10W30, 10W40 and 20W50. For this old change I decided to use Syntec 5W20 (M1 5W20 was sold out) hoping to gain a few miles per gallon. The car is running well, does not seem too different from the 10W30 that was in there before. I do notice that the oil pressure is a bit lower, but during highway RPMs the pressure is in the normal range. I have a long ways before the OCI is completed for analysis.
Call me stupid but the lead wear was lower with the 10w30 than with anything else, CORRECT??? The 10w30 is by far the thickest oil on that spread sheet, correct? I have no "cherished belief" or whatever, just looking at the data. True, they are not large numbers to begin with but mulitply this out by 200K miles and it will add up. Universal averages are just that, averages from other users whom had UOA's done.
John Browning seems to be one of the few here with above average intellect/education.
If an engine is designed to use a certain weight oil - then that oil should be used, which, IMO, is common sense..
I run Mobil 1, 10w30 in our three cars, all have over 130K miles.
The Saab used about 0.7 of a quart in 3,000 miles with 151K on the clock, with an OCI of 3 to 4 K miles....
If a man were to conduct a dynamometer test to see if there were any real difference between Mobil 1 10W30 and 0-20(if such exists), I'd bet the difference would not be any more that 1 to 2%..
I'd also like to try a synthetic 0-30, or even 5W-20, but this does not seem to be available in York County, Pennsylvania....
If an engine is designed to use a certain weight oil - then that oil should be used, which, IMO, is common sense..
I run Mobil 1, 10w30 in our three cars, all have over 130K miles.
The Saab used about 0.7 of a quart in 3,000 miles with 151K on the clock, with an OCI of 3 to 4 K miles....
If a man were to conduct a dynamometer test to see if there were any real difference between Mobil 1 10W30 and 0-20(if such exists), I'd bet the difference would not be any more that 1 to 2%..
I'd also like to try a synthetic 0-30, or even 5W-20, but this does not seem to be available in York County, Pennsylvania....
Bryan,
What new Toyota did you buy?
What new Toyota did you buy?
A Black 1GR-FE (4.0 all aluminum Varible timeing v-6)powered, 5 speed automatic Double cab Tacoma with the TRD offroad package (it has some nice items included) and factory Towing package-upgrades (Auxilary transmission oil cooler and Coolant to Engine oil cooler and a more aggressive fan pully a larger alternator etc.. )
It has the Inverter for AC power which I haven't tried yet as well as much better seats than the previous Tacoma I had.
As for the oil recomendations on this engine it is still on the 5w30 ISLAC SL requirement.
It's a nice truck that I plan on using for play and chores and keeping for a long time. I am keeping this one off the beach.
It has the Inverter for AC power which I haven't tried yet as well as much better seats than the previous Tacoma I had.
As for the oil recomendations on this engine it is still on the 5w30 ISLAC SL requirement.
It's a nice truck that I plan on using for play and chores and keeping for a long time. I am keeping this one off the beach.
I recently tried 5w20 in my Subaru. The drain plug magnet had two to three times the expected amount of magnetic slime built up. It looked like after 7500 km of winter driving, but this was summer. I predict increased iron on the UOA. People talk about 20w20 being used universally in the 1950's with noproblems, but I just looked up one SAE 20w20 made by 76, and it has an HTHS of 3.0 rather than the 2.6 found in modern 5w20's. I might actually try a 20w20 next summer if I can find some.
I forgot about this thread..
With the recent TSB I am considering returning my stash of 5w30 tropartic and getting some 5w20 for my Taco and my wifes '06 4 runner.
I suspect my wifes 4 runner came with 5w20 or 0w20 from the factory considering the oils behavior on the dipstick compared with my Taco with the tropartic 5w30 in it. That and the fact that the 4 runner seems to run stronger than my truck(they have the same transmission and engine excepting my tow packge (clutch fan, heavy duty alternator and oil cooler & transmission cooler wich could probablyy add up to more accesory friction loss) has me itching for the change.
With the recent TSB I am considering returning my stash of 5w30 tropartic and getting some 5w20 for my Taco and my wifes '06 4 runner.
I suspect my wifes 4 runner came with 5w20 or 0w20 from the factory considering the oils behavior on the dipstick compared with my Taco with the tropartic 5w30 in it. That and the fact that the 4 runner seems to run stronger than my truck(they have the same transmission and engine excepting my tow packge (clutch fan, heavy duty alternator and oil cooler & transmission cooler wich could probablyy add up to more accesory friction loss) has me itching for the change.
I put in M1 5w20 three weeks ago (at 10k miles) and I've not seen/felt/heard anything that would make me think I made a bad choice.
So far, running like a top.
I too plan on keeping this for a while, so I'm staying with the M1 20.
Scott
So far, running like a top.
I too plan on keeping this for a while, so I'm staying with the M1 20.
Scott
Pennzoil make it in HD. However, I would not recommend it. You would be much better off with a 5w20 synthetic or 0w20 even better. See the graph below. Sorry it is cluttered in the molasses grades, but you can see the differences between the 20w20 and Xw20 quite clearly near the bottom. It is essentially identical to the Xw20's at the higher temps alright, but jams out as the temperature goes down.
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/EngineOils/pdf/HD.pdf
Oilyriser, Since your Subaru is not specced for it why not try Redline 5w20?
I think it's courageous to try it especially in a Boxter type engine. Did you experience any abnormal consumption?
I think it's courageous to try it especially in a Boxter type engine. Did you experience any abnormal consumption?
My first post, and I thought this was a good thread to chime in. I own two Honda 2.4 iVTEC's and a Honda ATV. I run Mobile 1 0w-20 all year long in the cars, and Amsoil in the ATV all year long.
Also not noted much, Hybrids. They constantly start and stop which is why companies are going to 0w-xx oils. Its why I run 0w-20, I do a lot of short trips because work is only 2-3 miles from home. It adds up to a lot of key turning per day.
Thin oil (0w-20 or 5w-20) doesnt mean less protection in automotive engines. Its a myth, so long as their designed to run it.
Also not noted much, Hybrids. They constantly start and stop which is why companies are going to 0w-xx oils. Its why I run 0w-20, I do a lot of short trips because work is only 2-3 miles from home. It adds up to a lot of key turning per day.
Thin oil (0w-20 or 5w-20) doesnt mean less protection in automotive engines. Its a myth, so long as their designed to run it.
Rincon:
That said, allow me to pounce on your first post.
Toyota is quite emphatic, despite having moved to xw-20 oils for virtually all 06 and 07 models, that the hybrid Prius is to stay on 5w30 oil. Admittedly, I find that a tad counter-intuitive, but there's even a separate TSB that tells Prius owners to stay 5w30. And I am watching this issue closely, as one of our family vehicles happens to be an 04 Prius.
That said, allow me to pounce on your first post.
I own the same truck (minus towing package) and I am keenly interested in your forthcoming switch to 5w-20. I posted a thread on the Taco forum and it seems everyone there is scared to try the 20 weight. The V-6 in my Honda pilot(5w-20) is much quieter than the Taco, however this is not a very subjective comparison.
- Status