been using schaeffer supreme 7000 5W20 and driving up north non stop for 3 hours at constant speed of 130 to 150kmph with zero oil consumption. I was skeptical at first because the thinness and low vicosity oil but was rather amazed the oil level maintained and valvetrain noise is been reduced either. Honestly speaking, I'v no worry and concern, as long as the oil meets and exceed SM/GF 4 specs.
5-20 recommendatins kills love affair!
- Thread starter GregH
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Dealerships are like mob hangouts aren't they? They often are the sleaziest businesses in town.
But that doesn't mean you have to lower your standards because they did. There are better ways to stand up for your rights.
But that doesn't mean you have to lower your standards because they did. There are better ways to stand up for your rights.
GregH,
If you really wanted to be AR about it, I'd use the 5w-20 during the six coldest months out of the year when the thinner viscosity will provide maximum benefits. I'd switch to 10w30 for the six warmest months, when the thicker oil film will provide a higher margin of safety and perhaps lower oil consumption.
TS
If you really wanted to be AR about it, I'd use the 5w-20 during the six coldest months out of the year when the thinner viscosity will provide maximum benefits. I'd switch to 10w30 for the six warmest months, when the thicker oil film will provide a higher margin of safety and perhaps lower oil consumption.
TS
You kidding me, Gilitar? Wanting to run a better oil (subjective to say the least) and doing the paperwork to satisfy the single most dishonest entity (Auto Stealerships) in the auto business so your warranty claim isn't denied?
These are the companies (Ford, Chevy, and Chrysler and I've heard stories about Subaru and their WRX) that show SUVs in commercials climbing a pile of debris dwarfing anything found on the Moon or Mars who then deny a repair claim based on customer "abuse" for taking the vehicle off road, even if the vehicle has never left the road, but then dare you to do something about it.
These are the crooks that show a Mustang spinning the rear tires off the car in commercials to convince you you're buying a bonafide muscle car, and then deny the claim when the piece of crap breaks, naturally enough, when the customer spins the rear tires off the car at a stop light.
I've seen the kids out back of a dealership letting the freon out of the AC with a golf tee, but you can bet they charged the customer out the wazzoo for EPA-mandated "Freon Recovery". There are thousands of examples I and everyone else here could give in order to illustrate what miserable crooks the manufacturers and their Stealers are.
I agree, to not change the oil for 40K, burn the engine, and then quick-like put a filter and 5 quarts of oil in it before the tow truck comes would be dishonest. But to consider a little planted paperwork to cover a viscosity issue to be dishonest is a laugh.
Sorry, it's not you, it's anyone that attempts to defend Stealerships on an issue like this.
A true BITOG member. So does this unique scent pull the gals? is this a splash on the cheeks, or a pinch between the cheek and gum?
I agree. Dealerships are crap most of the time, however, some are good. I had a good experience with my Honda Service Department.
On the issue of oil I do NOT use 20 weights in any of my 2005 Accord and CRV. In the summer I use 10-30/40 Mobil 1 or Castrol (Synthetics) with Mobil 1 Filter. In the winter I use 5-40 Mobil 1 Euro Formula or 0w30 German Castrol.
For those who say "I use 5-20 for 50k and engine runs great" I find such statements funny to say the least. 50k is nothing. Now, 400k is something.
I put about 30k-40k miles on my cars per year. I intend to have them I hope for at least (*** willing) next 7-8 years. This means my Accord (over 30k now - one year old) should have at total of about 250+k miles when I sell it. I intend to keep the engine (and transmission - I do 10k Honda ATF fill and drains) in top shape. I also keep all receipts and records.
my fellow bitog'er's..i am just saying what i have learned about the use of thin oils..i feel comfortable using a very high quallity synthetics such as: redline,motul,delvac 1, schaeffers where shearing out of grade is not going to happen...and i do change my oils and filters every 1500-2000 miles on my mod engines...i use a high 10w30 oil...all year along.
Man, you guys are killing me with the constant 5W20 paranoia that continues on BITOG. Like I have said numerous times, look at the used oil analysis section on this board, there are too many used oil analysis with good results using 5W20. Joe
What worries me is the backlogging of engines which in the numerous years after their release in a certain car are all of a sudden made to run 5w20 when they never were speced for it before.
The Sonata my MIL has is speced to run 5w20(30) for the big V6 it is but I don't know. It has slight valvetrain noise now which could be because it is new or the oil.
The V8's worry me the most though like Ford. Going from a 10w30 to a 5w20 just doesn't seem right when 3 years before the 5w20 it ran fine on the spec 10w30.
I don't know, I'll stick with xw30's for now or like in the TDI(after being down for dealer idiocy) GC0w30.
The Sonata my MIL has is speced to run 5w20(30) for the big V6 it is but I don't know. It has slight valvetrain noise now which could be because it is new or the oil.
The V8's worry me the most though like Ford. Going from a 10w30 to a 5w20 just doesn't seem right when 3 years before the 5w20 it ran fine on the spec 10w30.
I don't know, I'll stick with xw30's for now or like in the TDI(after being down for dealer idiocy) GC0w30.
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