4th gen TDI Jettas

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I can find early 2000's with 200k and manual transmissions for about $3k. Am I crazy for even considering this?

From what I understand, the 1.9 is a bullet proof engine as long as the intake is kept clean and the TB and hardware is changed at the correct intervals.

As a BITOG'r, the fancy oil scared me, but apparently M1 0w40 will work since it carries the 505 approval.
 
I bought one in early 2013. Best choice I've ever made. I run Rotella T6. Definitely get one with a manual. You're not crazy. I consistently get 48-50 mpg. I've put 50k on mine.

I would say it isn't for someone that knows nothing about maintaining a car or someone who doesn't like to wrench on their own stuff. There a couple guys on here with alh's besides me, also check out tdi club if you're serious about buying one.
 
It depends on the year. From 1999 to 2003, the Jetta had the VE-pump engine that was extremely tough. From 2004 and afterward, they had the PD engine, and those engines sometimes would flatten the cam lobes and repairing that was very expensive.

In either case, these engines have timing belts and if they are not replaced on schedule, there will be severe engine damage, sometimes you get stuck having to replace the entire engine.

On the PD engine, the oil specification is different. They need 505.01 oil which is less common. However, Valvoline 5w40 MST is 505.01 approved, and NAPA regularly regularly has it on sale. Also, filters cost more because they are cartridge filters.

When you need 505.01 oil, some VW enthusiast stores sell the right amount of 505.01 oil, a filter, and a drain plug washer at a discount price.

I have heard that some owners use Shell RT6 to replace 505.01 oil and have zero problems with it. I know it performs well in most other VW engines, despite not being approved by VW.
 
There's 2 1.9L TDI motors. The ALH & BEW. ALH is the good motor, BEW is what I had, they're 2004 and later.

The engines go forever (in the ALH cars) but the problem is the rest of the car wrapped around the engine.

BEWs wear out camshafts regardless if you use the 505.01 oil or not (ask me how I know
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Use a calculator and see how much fuel you'd actually save.

Miles per year/mpgXcost per gallon of fuel

Costs me about $500 more a year in fuel to drive my Camry rather than my TDI, but I still save literally thousands of dollars a year in repairs.
 
I bought one new in 2002. After eleven years and over 260k miles I sold it to a young guy who needed a hundred mile daily commuter car.
Most fun car I ever owned. Loved working on it, driving it, and just owning it.
 
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Aside from the year, is there any other way to tell the difference between the 2 engines?
 
I'm not a TDI expert, but I do know the alternator is on top in a BEW engine and it's down low in an ALH.
 
ALH (and older ALU) was 2003 and older. Not sold after 2003. 2004-2006(?) was BEW in the Jetta. So you can go by the year. Alternatively, look for the injector pump--no external injector pump on the BEW.

My BEW did all of its 314k on its original camshaft. I was impressed, what with all the complaints. I suspect the rollers on the followers were getting old, and was toying with an injector swap & maybe a new cam, then decided it was time to move on.

Timing belt kit, $200-$300. here
BEW camshaft kit: $549. here

I think I drove a VE, but did not put any miles onto one, obviously. But I did like my BEW, and others agreed with me: if you're not heavily into the mod scene, the extra 10hp and better NVH makes it a nicer motor.

*

Problem areas:
-DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel). If you listen under the hood with the engine running, and hear what sounds like marbles in a tin can, then the flywheel is dead. It needs replacement, which is basically a clutch job. Which isn't a bad thing; I upgraded to a South Bend stage 2 clutch, and could not believe how good the clutch was afterward.
-Front fenders like to rot. TDI's got an extra bit of insulation above the fender liner, and they liked to rot there. Not sure what years affected. Fenders are like $100 (or were 2 years ago), albeit you have to paint them.
-There is a dirt trap between the front wheel liner and the front of the rocker. You can kinda peel the liner away and peer into the rocker area. This is where it'll rust first. And possibly the only place. The MkIV platform is quite resilant in the rust dept.
-Unless if you get a wagon. A number of them had problems with the pinch weld near the bottom of the window in the rear hatch.
-Rear axle beam is known to toe-in over the years. Some mechanics will fix with spacers between axle hub and axle, others say this is bad and you should get a new axle. I dealt with mine by doing frequent tire rotations.
-The BEW uses a $500 intake flap which likes to die at 200k.
-it's an interference engine. Just plan on doing the timing belt job yourself, unless if the seller can tell you (and document it) who did it. Then you can look up if they are reputable or not.
-the BEW does use an electric lift pump, in the fuel tank (the VE models did not), and they can die. Most of them have been replaced by now (just like most of the bad cam BEW's had that fixed too).
-most anything can be found on tdiclub.com, although myturbodiesel.com is another place (I didn't frequent that one, it came later).
-if you do buy one, figure out who your local TDI guru is. It certainly isn't your VW dealer, and it very likely isn't your local corner garage.
 
Originally Posted By: pandus13
i think user SUPTON, had an 2003 TDI wagon over 314k miles....


Heh, you posted while I was typing.

2004 Jetta wagon, so it was a BEW, not ALH. 5 speed manual, loaded, leather, etc. Loved that car. But 11 years of salty NH left its mark, and in the end I couldn't justify dropping several thousand fixing up a car not worth that much. That, and since I did not have a local VW mechanic who I could have do repairs that I couldn't, meant I needed to reconsider my vehicle options.

Car was fairly reliable too. Outside of recalls:
-front wheel bearings at 105k (forgot to mention up above, pretty common for the fronts to go early, then the replacements to last much longer)
-struts/shocks at 133k (these don't last long, supposedly; I drove on dead ones for a long time). I did Koni Red's at near full stiff, and really liked it.
-168k brought some EGR work, mostly to fix botched dealer EGR recall work. Morons didn't do it right.
-rear brake pads, rotors and calipers at the same time
-oh--rear calipers are known to sieze up on these. Seems fairly common. Also, the pistons spin in, not press in.
-175k I had to do front brakes due to rust
-200k was the $500 intake flap
-220k was replacing that part again...
-249k was clutch. I put in a stronger SMF at that time. I think a parking brake cable too
-255k was turbo. I did a tune at the same time, probably raising from 100hp/177tq to 140hp/240tq. Talk about fun to drive... little laggy, but big fun. Did have to be towed for this.
-25something k, fuel pump. Clutch, turbo, pump, all in one summer. Wife was not impressed with $4k in repairs that summer!
-struts at some point, again, but used the lifetime warranty on the Koni's, so it was cheap
-275k was brakes again? noticed rust creeping up, so I shotgun'd all pads, rotors and rear calipers
-I think 300k I had to replace a torn CV boot. Joint was fine, so I just rebuilt all four with boot kits.
-I did have the blower resistor blow the thermal fuse; fixed that fuse, and had to lubricate the motor several times.

Around the end I realized that a number of people had to do heater cores--and it's an 8 hour job as the entire dash has to come out. Ugh. Faced with a warped rear axle, patched rocker and hatch, a transmission that was starting to make a questionable noise, and >300k on an engine with stock injectors, alternator, starter (oh that was making noise too) I decided I was probably better off moving on.
 
the engine is great. the interior is absolute junk, good luck if the odometer cluster doesn't flicker and give you headaches or psychosis.
 
Oh yeah, the soft touch interior was known for wearing. Towards the end mine was starting to show sear on the soft touch (but otherwise hard plastic) areas. I thought the rest of the interior was doing fine though.

Window regulator was a problem at times. Mine popped off once or twice, but the regulator never actually broke.
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
the engine is great. the interior is absolute junk, good luck if the odometer cluster doesn't flicker and give you headaches or psychosis.

You can have certain shops rebuild those clusters for $300-$400, but I don't know how much labor is involved in removing and installing those clusters.
 
There's a small used dealer that specializes in these things.

I've heard a few conflicting stories of the guy, but he seems downright honest. Straight up says "this one has a CEL, this one has an airbag light, no idea on the TB change so I'd recommend changing it." When car shopping, I play completely dumb and he stressed the TB, intake and even the correct oil. When he mentioned the oil, by girlfriend later called me out on my good poker face. He even said he was cool with me taking it to the local VW dealer for a checkup prior to purchase.

He buys them at auction. Like any used car, I feel it is a gamble either way.. A VW just being a bit more expensive to repair than say a Civic of that vintage. I originally liked the idea of buying a beater to use cheap fluids/ parts in, but knowing how anal retentive I am, I would put OEM/ quality aftermarket in the thing regardless as well as quality filters and top tiered synthetics.
 
VW's of that generation are a toss-up. You either get a good one, or, uh, not. No middle ground it seems. Same with the MKV platform. I'm normally against higher mileage cars, but if it lived through that many miles. VW's are quirky cars, and they do seem to only like OEM parts. There's so many online vendors for such parts, it's not really that much more expensive. I know I'm fortunate to have a dealer nearby with decent prices on filters and fluids.
 
2003 Jetta TDI 5MT is about the best diesel car ever imo. You have most of the MK IV kinks worked out, still has the ALH engine, only thing is finding one that was cared for by an enthusiast. If it was just kicked down the road by your average Iffy Lube Joe i wouldn't touch it. However, if its in condition with maintenance history by someone who knows what it needs, it can run for a stupid long time.

I've never had such good city MPG in anything else ever. I drive like i have somewhere to be and that translates into poor MPG unless you have an ALH TDI. You can still get 40 mpg driving like you mean it.

There aren't many things that can go wrong compared to a gasoline engine.
 
ALH probably, but I couldn't with my BEW & DSG transmission. 37-38 mpg during my commute, once I put 200 miles on it, 150 or so were close to 85 mph and it got around 33 mpg.
 
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