4L80E build

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Alright, so I did have the 15 thou thicker sonnax forward hub washer and used that. Re did the stack up and with a 90 thou front pump shim, I have 13 thou of front end play and 8 thou of rear end play. Also have ~12 thou of reaction carrier to center support end play.

Also have rollerized the output, the forward drum (with the extreme duty sonnax piece) and input billet shaft.

At this point I think she's ready to go together for real. Currently waiting on new sealing rings for the input shaft.

I had the HD2 kit on it but have switched to the internal dual feed mod by removing the center seal in the drum and punching a cap plug into the case. I'm switching to the transgo OEM replacement separator plate. I did NOT block off the accumulators but do have the springs that go in them for the HD2 kit. Will probably not open the hole feed holes as much as I did on the HD2 plate since the 1-2 shift was a bit aggressive and the 2-3 wot shift when lockup was engaged was nuts (triple disk tcc) and could chirp tires behind a tune only LQ4

It's a truck that will be getting heads cam and turbo soon but is my tow pig that I occasionally daily.
 
.090" selectable thrust puts you right in the middle of the factory choices.....Love it!!!

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
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Quality performance converters don't usually have Damper Springs on the TCC clutch disc to absorb the shock, While multi disc set-ups are worse.....A single solid disc does it to. The single disc Circle D PRO in my Camaro hits pretty hard.

Why did you have it set to lock in 2nd? I know why "Turbo" guys do it, But you were running N/A....Right?
 
Awesome to hear it's now in the middle
smile.gif
gunna close her up Monday when my seals come in and try to install Tuesday night.

Any input regarding oil temps? I put a trucool 40k on it to try to keep it cool with the stall while towing, but in the winter time, I can't even get the oil temps > 110F.

It actually is primarily a tow pig for towing my Vette to tracks but I have a problem with taking reliable vehicles and making them faster and unreliable haha. I drive it to work some days when I don't feel like driving a manual across DFW for work (I live in Bedford and work in North Dallas).

It has a yank triple disk pro truck converter in it (3200 RPM stall). The lock up is firm, but actually isn't that bad. I was able to smooth out the engagement by ramping the pwm. What's rough is wot 2-3 shifts when lock up is engaged so the stall doesn't take any of the shock out of it.

Its rated for WOT lock ups "to 1200 whp", so I have it lock up in 2nd when wot. Right now it's just a tune only stock LQ4, and I'm currently waiting on my 243s to finish getting ported then it's show time. Was trying to get the transmission ready beforehand. I don't drag race, and don't actually know if it's any faster to have it lock up.

Honestly this is my first time dabbling with automatics in anything I'm trying to make entertaining, I normally stick to manuals. I don't know if it's faster or not to lock up when wot, but it's rated to do it so I was trying different settings. If you have any experience, I'm all ears.
 
Beautiful thread here, guys.

Couple questions. I rebuilt a 99 4l80e with a kit from Dana @ probuilt https://probuiltautomatics.com/shop?olsPage=products%2F4l80e-rebuild-kit-streetstrip-1997-early-2001&page=2
and installed a HD2 kit with pre drilled sandwich plate from dana, but never got around to installing the transmission. So after finding this thread, I've decided to go back in the trans and internally dual feed and ditch the sandwhich plate. I've already removed the pressure relief parts and plugged that hole in the VB. I am also rollerizing the rear, but not the forward, as I have no easy access to machining.

Question 1 Any idea were I can find a TV exhaust checkball online to drive into the center support? I've looked everywhere I can think of to find a TV exhaust ball, no luck so far. Everything I've found so far are standard 1/4 balls.

Question 2 , since I will be getting a new transgo separator plate and ditching the sandwich plate. What should I drill my holes too on my plate? I also bought a accumulator block plate as well.

Trans going into 1997 LS1 swapped transam, with 3.42 gears, and a circle d pro single disc billet 3600 stall converter. Engine is stock with full bolt ons (LT, cold air, etc) now but will be doing H/C/I and a possible 100 shot later, if that matters. Car will be used for weekend cruiser and fun trips to the strip.

Thanks
John
 
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The 700R4 TV Exhaust checkball isn't available anymore, The only source for them are 700R4 cores.

Plugging the center support itself is not critical to the function of the transmission. Tapping the reverse feed & using a set screw is a option.
 
That's what I did. You get them in the rebuild kits but I did find a source to buy them separately for ~$8 shipped (most of it is shipping cost)
 
Alright. Now i'm [censored]. What is the torque to put on the 4th housing to case bolt? I have the ATSG manual and it SAYS 17-19 ft lbs. So I did 18, bolt sheared in half. Drove 2 hours round trip up to Jake's Performance (they're awesome, great guys, helped me out) to get another bolt. Set torque to 15 ft lbs, sheared off again. Just paid $40 to overnight 2 more of these [censored], but either my torque wrench is way off, or this torque rating is not right.
 
17ft lbs is what the 2 books and video I have all say as well. The wrench definitely seems the culprit here.
 
I bought two of these. Will try one at 17 again and see if it's fine. I checked threads. If the first one pops again, inI'm getting a different wrench. I've never had issues with this on the 8.33 lb ft bolts though
 
Holy cow. Don't torque your valve body with that wrench. That bolt is famous for breaking from what I've read but man 3 bolts in a row
 
Two bolts. First one was new. Then I tried to reuse the one I pulled to see.

I'm assuming the torque value is not critical for this, so I probably will just torque by hand and call it good with hand snugged.

And actually I did use that one for my VB last time with no issues haha. I've never had an issue with it. Never pulled threads on any of my low torque stuff.
 
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You need a 1/4" drive torque wrench for those! Using the Inch Pound scale at 200 in lbs, I've rarely seen a 3/8" TW be accurate below 25 ft ibs!!

I torque the Valve Body at 97 in lbs.
 
CLine I think I remember reading that at some point they redesigned that bolt?? One is black oxide finish and one is yellow chromate finish? Is this correct?
 
I have a 1/4 wrench but it maxes at 80 inch lbs. Sadly my options are

1/4 0-80 inch lbs (bar type)
3/8 5-80 lbs ft (click type)
1/2 "10" - 175 lbs ft (click type)


My calibration documentation shows it was quite accurate at low value, granted that is almost a year old now. But I reserve it for only
Clearly something is off, but I lack a good low torque wrench. I wonder if it could be that I had already torqued the pump down when I realized that I forgot to install the 4th housing case bolt. I've since pulled the pump off and over drive out and plan to try it at 17 ft lbs again. If it fails, I'll have to reevaluate my options.
 
I see your quandary. I have the same issue while assembling LS motors. Now days you pretty much gotta have all 3 TW's of high accuracy and trust. At this point I only have snap on clicks in 1/4 and 3/8.
 
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Originally Posted by P10crew
CLine I think I remember reading that at some point they redesigned that bolt?? One is black oxide finish and one is yellow chromate finish? Is this correct?



The only black oxide one I know of is the Trans Go allen headed one with the washer, However....When I tear one down, I throw the 4th clutch & Center Support bolts directly in the trash can.

The Delco ones I use appear to have a Zinc coating.
 
Originally Posted by JonathanV
I have a 1/4 wrench but it maxes at 80 inch lbs. Sadly my options are

1/4 0-80 inch lbs (bar type)
3/8 5-80 lbs ft (click type)
1/2 "10" - 175 lbs ft (click type)


My calibration documentation shows it was quite accurate at low value, granted that is almost a year old now. But I reserve it for only
Clearly something is off, but I lack a good low torque wrench. I wonder if it could be that I had already torqued the pump down when I realized that I forgot to install the 4th housing case bolt. I've since pulled the pump off and over drive out and plan to try it at 17 ft lbs again. If it fails, I'll have to reevaluate my options.



Click type wrenches can get you in trouble quickly, This bolt is pretty much at yield by the time you sneak up on 17 ft lbs. Thus the reason I sneak up on 200 in lbs which is smidge less than 17 ft lbs.
I'm fully aware factory service manuals calls for a minimum of 17 ft lbs, I wouldn't be opposed to 190-195 in lbs as it would still put the bolt in a good bit of stretch.

It must be stretched a little bit or it will back out! Seen many 4th Clutch backed out upon teardown.

I use a Snap-on ATECH1FR240B (12-240 in lb) torque wrench, If you want to bring your trans by my shop....I'll be happy to torque the bolt down for you. I'm on the Northside of Ft. Worth (Diamond Hill), Not to far from HEB.
 
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