4F27e still puzzling me

[Klutch9]

I posted awhile back about the 2-3 shift slip in my Focus. Where it would only happen on the first shift after the car had been started. Whether the car sits for 15 hours or 10 minutes, I'll get a little shift slip/flare on the first 2-3 shift. Some slips are more pronounced than others. It hasn't gotten better or worse since I did a drain/fill a few weeks ago with Maxlife. Should I try some LGR? It started having this issue last fall, which was about a year and a half since the previous drain/fill, when I also added a bottle of LGR. Should I just let it go and ignore it? As I had stated before, other than this issue, the transmission works perfectly (well, as perfect as a cheap 4F27e can be!). If my math is correct, I should still have about 3 ounces of LGR in the sump that was added almost 2 years ago.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Have you checked shift solenoids?

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Have you checked shift solenoids?


I'm actually thinking that it has a failing solenoid; I believe it's the "E" solenoid that controls the 2-3 shift (not sure if that is Ford's or Mazda's labeling, since they are each different). How do I go about checking them? I know that they are easy to replace, since they are easily accessible once you pull the pan, but I don't know how you'd check them.

 

[itguy08]

Check for TSB's. There is a TSB out for the 6f55's (and I think the 6f50) that concerns a slip/flare on the 2-3 shifts only at the first shift after startup. Solution is a reflash.

Might be something similar for you.

 

[Danh]

Don't know if this has anything to do with your problem, but PQIA dinged MaxLife ATF for its description as being appropriate for Mercon -spec'd vehicles as it doesn't meet Mercon's viscosity standard. MaxLife is thinner than Mercon requires. If MaxLife was in your trans before the recent change, you may want to revert to Motorcraft Mercon and see if it makes a difference.

 

[Klutch9]

ML is the same viscosity as Mercon LV, which is what the 4F27e calls for.

 

[Astro14]

In general, you check solenoids on the transmission with an ohmmeter. Resistance is about all you can measure...but you can pull the unit and look for metal contamination...they're magnetic and tend to pick it up..,

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
In general, you check solenoids on the transmission with an ohmmeter. Resistance is about all you can measure...but you can pull the unit and look for metal contamination...they're magnetic and tend to pick it up..,


This is what I was assuming. How many ohms should they each read?

 

[Astro14]

FSM for that number...they vary...it's not crazy high or low, more like 10 or 20...so you don't need super fancy equipment...

FWIW, the solenoids on my Volvos (both) were clean when they came out at 110 - 125 K. But there are lots of reports on the web (and a whole cottage industry) reworking the solenoids because of metal contamination. So, if you're troubleshooting, I would pull them out and look.

You dont want to ignore a slip...its increasing rate of wear on soft parts...But start with cheap/easy and try the fluid change before pulling parts..,

 

[SuperDave456]

Originally Posted By: Astro14

..But start with cheap/easy and try the fluid change before pulling parts..,


This!

I'd start by adding another bottle of Lubeguard Red.
It's like $11.
It can't get much cheaper than that.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Originally Posted By: Astro14

..But start with cheap/easy and try the fluid change before pulling parts..,


This!

I'd start by adding another bottle of Lubeguard Red.
It's like $11.


It can't get much cheaper than that.


I've already done 2 drain and fills in the last 6 months. But I may try another bottle of LGR.

 

[Klutch9]

I decided to throw in a bottle of LGR this evening after work. We'll see if it helps any. If not, I'll just let it be for awhile. Soon, my Focus will barely get driven at all once I start driving my work vehicle on a daily basis (maybe only once a week at that point). Down the road when I go to change the trans filter I'll pull each solenoid and ohm test them, as well as check for metal shaving build-up as Astro14 recommended.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

E means that it's all electronically controlled; the pcm tells it when to shift, lock torque converter, etc.

I'm not sure how hard it is to chanage a shift solenoid, I'd go to a junkyard and grab a handful and see if that helps.

 

[Klutch9]

Miller88, it is quite easy to change the solenoids. Once you remove the trans pan they are right there. Unplug the wire harness, undo the bolt, and you have yourself a solenoid.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Ah didn't realize it was simple in these too. My Cherokee has them pretty easy to get to - wasn't sure if it was the same for the Mazda 4F27E as well.

 

[Klutch9]

UPDATE: So I had some time to kill today (it is Sunday after all). I went to O'Reilly's to get a code scan to see if my car is throwing any trouble codes for the transmission. Lo and behold, it isn't... Maybe I'm overthinking this. I've done pretty much every bit of PM on this car short of changing the trans filter, which it shouldn't need at 50k miles anyhow. Fresh fluid, LGR, still didn't help (or hurt). I know many people will go crazy over this, but I also tried adding 1/2 bottle of Lucas trans additive, since I had a good experience with it in the past. It's had a neutral effect this time as far as the slipping, although it seems that the trans does shift a little nicer overall.

 

[MolaKule]

Change trans filter, then check solenoids, then maybe get a reflash.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery and allowing it to re-learn?

I would avoid the Lucas Tans stuff. A silver cross comes to mind anytime I hear people using this.