I believe it is. That's weird that you bring up the issue of durability, as the folks over on the forester forums say it's a quirky thing but will go forever
4eat 2-3 flare and a lube guard question
- Thread starter SnowDrifter
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Temp is important for ATF check. The 35 minute ride might cause ATF to be too hot and give you an artificially high reading.
For cold ATF check, park vehicle on level surface overnight. At 1st start with cold vehicle running and all loads off(stereo heat a/c lights...OFF), cycle shifter 5-10 seconds in all shift selector points (1-2-3-D-N-R-P), leave in P and check that dipstick. For hot check, drive 3 miles and repeat the shifter dance and dipstick check.
Scantool can be used for optimal hot level check fluid temp. Also, IR gun pan/filter temp reading, or ATF inline fluid temp gauges can be used. >140°F and <176°F is a target range temp but should be verified with factory service manual.
For cold ATF check, park vehicle on level surface overnight. At 1st start with cold vehicle running and all loads off(stereo heat a/c lights...OFF), cycle shifter 5-10 seconds in all shift selector points (1-2-3-D-N-R-P), leave in P and check that dipstick. For hot check, drive 3 miles and repeat the shifter dance and dipstick check.
Scantool can be used for optimal hot level check fluid temp. Also, IR gun pan/filter temp reading, or ATF inline fluid temp gauges can be used. >140°F and <176°F is a target range temp but should be verified with factory service manual.
Originally Posted By: JBinTX30
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I use regular SuperTech Mercon/Dexrom III transmission in my vintage 1995 F4EAT automatic transmission at 228K miles. I have no idea what this "flare" you speak of.
I remember reading somewhere there is a issue with some of the fluid draining out of the hydraulic circuit after it sits. I'm not sure of the shift kit would correct this.
IIRC this only happens on the 99+ (phase 2) 4EAT's.
There is a TSB and a kit for low transmission oil pressure at idle, particularly on a cold start yes. Really easy to implement:
http://www.feoa.net/threads/atratb039-02-01-1991-a-t-g4a-el-4eat-low-pump-pressure.61690/
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I use regular SuperTech Mercon/Dexrom III transmission in my vintage 1995 F4EAT automatic transmission at 228K miles. I have no idea what this "flare" you speak of.
I remember reading somewhere there is a issue with some of the fluid draining out of the hydraulic circuit after it sits. I'm not sure of the shift kit would correct this.
IIRC this only happens on the 99+ (phase 2) 4EAT's.
There is a TSB and a kit for low transmission oil pressure at idle, particularly on a cold start yes. Really easy to implement:
http://www.feoa.net/threads/atratb039-02-01-1991-a-t-g4a-el-4eat-low-pump-pressure.61690/
Originally Posted By: pbm
Off Topic but curious:
Is the Subaru 4-EAT the same as the 4-EAT in the Ford ZX-2?
I am running Maxlife with LG Red and it seems to be a good combo.
The Ford 4-EAT isn't known for great durability so I'm trying to maintain it well.
Same transmission family except the Subaru one is 4WD and sometimes has an external spin on filter and drain plug. The F4EAT is durable, I don't know where you are getting your durability info from. I have over 228K miles on mine, and that's in Baltimore-Washington DC traffic.
Off Topic but curious:
Is the Subaru 4-EAT the same as the 4-EAT in the Ford ZX-2?
I am running Maxlife with LG Red and it seems to be a good combo.
The Ford 4-EAT isn't known for great durability so I'm trying to maintain it well.
Same transmission family except the Subaru one is 4WD and sometimes has an external spin on filter and drain plug. The F4EAT is durable, I don't know where you are getting your durability info from. I have over 228K miles on mine, and that's in Baltimore-Washington DC traffic.
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Same weirdness this morning with the fluid. Was well below the low mark. I added a half a quart to it. Can't tell anything meaningful regarding the flare though, as the car had a few minutes to warm up while I was getting my funnel and fluid. Will check and try again tomorrow
No! You ideally want to measure the fluid level after it's been driven ~20 miles! Seriously! I don't trust the cold readings much. It's only enough to get it working IMO.
Same weirdness this morning with the fluid. Was well below the low mark. I added a half a quart to it. Can't tell anything meaningful regarding the flare though, as the car had a few minutes to warm up while I was getting my funnel and fluid. Will check and try again tomorrow
No! You ideally want to measure the fluid level after it's been driven ~20 miles! Seriously! I don't trust the cold readings much. It's only enough to get it working IMO.
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RT-4ATAXLE
IPT
Subaru considers this as normal except it doesn't happen on new transmissions or rebuilds... seal leakage caused hydraulic circuit draining...
Rebuild transmission not cost effective until complete failure.
Seal conditioner, whether ester or solvent should be tried. Use Lubegard, AutoRx, BG, GM 88861314, TransX, Lucas... for about 5k miles. Consider full fluid cooler line exchange after using any additive prior to trying another.
Thin ATF... might flow quicker filling in the hydraulic circuit, and reducing the flare timing. Redline D6 is a good flowing thin ATF. Maxlife is another.
Thick ATF... might reduce drainback leakage. Castrol HighMileage ATF is one of the thicker fluids.
VB mod usually allows more fluid flow and pressure. Either could reduce the flare timing.
I'd hit the issue from all angles. I also consider changing the VB filter and torquing all the VB bolts.
IPT
Subaru considers this as normal except it doesn't happen on new transmissions or rebuilds... seal leakage caused hydraulic circuit draining...
Rebuild transmission not cost effective until complete failure.
Seal conditioner, whether ester or solvent should be tried. Use Lubegard, AutoRx, BG, GM 88861314, TransX, Lucas... for about 5k miles. Consider full fluid cooler line exchange after using any additive prior to trying another.
Thin ATF... might flow quicker filling in the hydraulic circuit, and reducing the flare timing. Redline D6 is a good flowing thin ATF. Maxlife is another.
Thick ATF... might reduce drainback leakage. Castrol HighMileage ATF is one of the thicker fluids.
VB mod usually allows more fluid flow and pressure. Either could reduce the flare timing.
I'd hit the issue from all angles. I also consider changing the VB filter and torquing all the VB bolts.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: pbm
Off Topic but curious:
Is the Subaru 4-EAT the same as the 4-EAT in the Ford ZX-2?
I am running Maxlife with LG Red and it seems to be a good combo.
The Ford 4-EAT isn't known for great durability so I'm trying to maintain it well.
Same transmission family except the Subaru one is 4WD and sometimes has an external spin on filter and drain plug. The F4EAT is durable, I don't know where you are getting your durability info from. I have over 228K miles on mine, and that's in Baltimore-Washington DC traffic.
This is from teamZx2.com
"If you have an ATX (automatic transaxle) you really should install an auxilary transmission cooler. The ATX can be reliable for daily driving but it overheats easily. The factory cooler just doesn't cut it. You will also benifiet from switching to a synthetic transmission fluid and have transmission flushes done on a regular schedule. For reference, the ATX typically loses 27% of its' power between the engine and wheels. For instance, if you make 100 hp at the crank, you'll see 73 hp (73 whp) at the wheels."
Originally Posted By: pbm
Off Topic but curious:
Is the Subaru 4-EAT the same as the 4-EAT in the Ford ZX-2?
I am running Maxlife with LG Red and it seems to be a good combo.
The Ford 4-EAT isn't known for great durability so I'm trying to maintain it well.
Same transmission family except the Subaru one is 4WD and sometimes has an external spin on filter and drain plug. The F4EAT is durable, I don't know where you are getting your durability info from. I have over 228K miles on mine, and that's in Baltimore-Washington DC traffic.
This is from teamZx2.com
"If you have an ATX (automatic transaxle) you really should install an auxilary transmission cooler. The ATX can be reliable for daily driving but it overheats easily. The factory cooler just doesn't cut it. You will also benifiet from switching to a synthetic transmission fluid and have transmission flushes done on a regular schedule. For reference, the ATX typically loses 27% of its' power between the engine and wheels. For instance, if you make 100 hp at the crank, you'll see 73 hp (73 whp) at the wheels."
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