4 cycle leaf blower, Synthetic or SAE 30?
- Thread starter dinofish
- Start date
Originally Posted by dave123
+1 Good luck with the leaf blower time for us to move on.
Dave, so far, you have made four posts in this thread. Clearly, you have trouble moving on and/or have a crush on me.
+1 Good luck with the leaf blower time for us to move on.
Dave, so far, you have made four posts in this thread. Clearly, you have trouble moving on and/or have a crush on me.
Originally Posted by dave123
+1 Good luck with the leaf blower time for us to move on.
You can lead a horse to water but......
+1 Good luck with the leaf blower time for us to move on.
You can lead a horse to water but......
Regarding your starting issues...
1) replace that primer....because if its leaking fuel...that can be a reason for harder starts...
2) if that wont help.....adjust its valves...
3) use HDEO/Euro oils.....API/ILSAC in an AIR cooled engine Will result in higher oil consumption...
1) replace that primer....because if its leaking fuel...that can be a reason for harder starts...
2) if that wont help.....adjust its valves...
3) use HDEO/Euro oils.....API/ILSAC in an AIR cooled engine Will result in higher oil consumption...
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Regarding your starting issues...
1) replace that primer....because if its leaking fuel...that can be a reason for harder starts...
2) if that wont help.....adjust its valves...
3) use HDEO/Euro oils.....API/ILSAC in an AIR cooled engine Will result in higher oil consumption...
The primer started leaking about two weeks ago. I didn't touch the blower after it started leaking. Received, installed, and tested the replacement primer from Walbro today.
I want to try Mobil 1 5W-30 first.
Regarding your starting issues...
1) replace that primer....because if its leaking fuel...that can be a reason for harder starts...
2) if that wont help.....adjust its valves...
3) use HDEO/Euro oils.....API/ILSAC in an AIR cooled engine Will result in higher oil consumption...
The primer started leaking about two weeks ago. I didn't touch the blower after it started leaking. Received, installed, and tested the replacement primer from Walbro today.
I want to try Mobil 1 5W-30 first.
All right. Time for updates.
Mobil 1 5W-30 arrived Friday, full three days ahead of schedule. Felt like Christmas for some reason.
I started both the mower and blower for the first time since oil change with SAE 30 (not syn 5W-30) and using premium gas. Mower started with one pull. Blower took about six pulls, two at half choke. Tried blower again the next day and got it started in 4 pulls. Then tried it again today, two days after last, it started with one pull! Whoa. Maybe there is no need for switch... or so I thought. Tried it again after a couple of hours and we are back to six pulls for some reason. Nothing had changed other than perhaps the ambient temperature.
Planning on using them both for a few weeks before the switch to Mobil 1 5W-30.
Mobil 1 5W-30 arrived Friday, full three days ahead of schedule. Felt like Christmas for some reason.
I started both the mower and blower for the first time since oil change with SAE 30 (not syn 5W-30) and using premium gas. Mower started with one pull. Blower took about six pulls, two at half choke. Tried blower again the next day and got it started in 4 pulls. Then tried it again today, two days after last, it started with one pull! Whoa. Maybe there is no need for switch... or so I thought. Tried it again after a couple of hours and we are back to six pulls for some reason. Nothing had changed other than perhaps the ambient temperature.
Planning on using them both for a few weeks before the switch to Mobil 1 5W-30.
Just another update. (New post because I can't edit last)
I spoke with Ryobi support again for more reassurance, and this time, it was a guy who seemed technically knowledgeable rather than reciting the manual back to me. He said switching to synthetic Mobil 1 5W-30 was fine, but doing so probably won't help with oil burning issues. He also confirmed that one is supposed to 'not' re-thread the dipstick when checking oil, and when asked why, he said that's how Ryobi makes it.
Now for some ramblings of mine. (This one is for you, Dave.
)
I hope to resolve three issues by switching to synthetic oil: 1) Hard starting. 2) Oil burning. 3) Oil turning black.
I consider all this, especially #2 and #3, to be an indication that there is too much heat generated in the engine, and the oil is turning black first, then burning off from that heat. Kind of like cooking oil. If you heat cooking oil ( or motor oil ) on the stovetop for some time, it is going to turn brown/black first and then burn off. Sound familiar? Then there are more refined cooking oils which can handle even more heat without turning black and burning off as fast as unrefined. Sound familiar again?
Synthetic oil is just a more refined version of conventional oil. In being so, it should be able to withstand more heat, enabling the user to use a lower viscosity oil (which would otherwise burn off faster) to allow for easier flow for easier initial cold starts. Which should also mean less burning issues when compared to conventional. 'Should' being the operative word here. And if under constant stress, then one can use a thicker synthetic.
As far as leaks from using synthetic, I think that is stemming due to lack of sufficient oil maintenance before the user switched to synthetic. And all conventional oil did was provide a band-aid fix for the short term, but in reality, their engine might be in need of a major overhaul in the future even if there was no switch.
Currently, as I have stated before, there is difficulty in getting the leaf blower started. It takes on average 4-6 pulls with SAE 30. And by the end of the season, I also notice some oil burned off from the leaf blower. Mower starts in one/two pulls and doesn't have any oil burning issues, but like the leaf blower, the oil is very black by the end of the season. And that color itself frightens me for some reason. As if something is wrong. Surely that black stuff can't be providing much in terms of lubrication? My thinking is that an oil changing color is an early indication of it breaking down and its efficacy must be questioned. Therefore, I am taking preventative steps in addressing all these issues by switching to synthetic.
I hope to see improvements from all three issues previously mentioned by using synthetic oil, especially hoping to start the leaf blower in one or two pulls. I also hope as an added bonus, the engine functions/performs better with proper and adequate lubrication. But I don't rely on hopes, that's why we test. Synthetic only gets one chance from me, one season. If positive results, then cars are definitely getting switched over to synthetic.
I spoke with Ryobi support again for more reassurance, and this time, it was a guy who seemed technically knowledgeable rather than reciting the manual back to me. He said switching to synthetic Mobil 1 5W-30 was fine, but doing so probably won't help with oil burning issues. He also confirmed that one is supposed to 'not' re-thread the dipstick when checking oil, and when asked why, he said that's how Ryobi makes it.
Now for some ramblings of mine. (This one is for you, Dave.
)I hope to resolve three issues by switching to synthetic oil: 1) Hard starting. 2) Oil burning. 3) Oil turning black.
I consider all this, especially #2 and #3, to be an indication that there is too much heat generated in the engine, and the oil is turning black first, then burning off from that heat. Kind of like cooking oil. If you heat cooking oil ( or motor oil ) on the stovetop for some time, it is going to turn brown/black first and then burn off. Sound familiar? Then there are more refined cooking oils which can handle even more heat without turning black and burning off as fast as unrefined. Sound familiar again?
Synthetic oil is just a more refined version of conventional oil. In being so, it should be able to withstand more heat, enabling the user to use a lower viscosity oil (which would otherwise burn off faster) to allow for easier flow for easier initial cold starts. Which should also mean less burning issues when compared to conventional. 'Should' being the operative word here. And if under constant stress, then one can use a thicker synthetic.
As far as leaks from using synthetic, I think that is stemming due to lack of sufficient oil maintenance before the user switched to synthetic. And all conventional oil did was provide a band-aid fix for the short term, but in reality, their engine might be in need of a major overhaul in the future even if there was no switch.
Currently, as I have stated before, there is difficulty in getting the leaf blower started. It takes on average 4-6 pulls with SAE 30. And by the end of the season, I also notice some oil burned off from the leaf blower. Mower starts in one/two pulls and doesn't have any oil burning issues, but like the leaf blower, the oil is very black by the end of the season. And that color itself frightens me for some reason. As if something is wrong. Surely that black stuff can't be providing much in terms of lubrication? My thinking is that an oil changing color is an early indication of it breaking down and its efficacy must be questioned. Therefore, I am taking preventative steps in addressing all these issues by switching to synthetic.
I hope to see improvements from all three issues previously mentioned by using synthetic oil, especially hoping to start the leaf blower in one or two pulls. I also hope as an added bonus, the engine functions/performs better with proper and adequate lubrication. But I don't rely on hopes, that's why we test. Synthetic only gets one chance from me, one season. If positive results, then cars are definitely getting switched over to synthetic.
Synthetic oil won't improve any of those things, unfortunately, at least in a way that is noticeable. Most of those issues are related to the machine itself (carburetor for the starting, piston rings for the oil burning, etc). Ryobi is not a brand that is well known for quality, unfortunately. 4 cycle engines are just not ideal on small hand held equipment like this because of the different angles they are run at, which is likely contributing to the issues you mention. With that said, I wouldn't be worried about any of these issues actually hurting longevity of the machine, they are just quirks that you will need to get used to. The not starting easily problem is an issue related to the emissions carburetor jetting on most small engines. I have a Craftsman leaf blower that has never started easily since it was new. It takes at least 5-6 pulls. I've tried a new carburetor, several different spark plugs, modified a carburetor so I could mess with the jetting, removed the spark arrester screen thinking it was clogged, and it still takes the same number of pulls to start. It's just a design flaw. Meanwhile my 22 year old Makita weed whacker has all original components and starts on the second pull no matter if it's been sitting for a week, or 4 months.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
Synthetic oil won't improve any of those things, unfortunately, at least in a way that is noticeable. Most of those issues are related to the machine itself (carburetor for the starting, piston rings for the oil burning, etc). Ryobi is not a brand that is well known for quality, unfortunately. 4 cycle engines are just not ideal on small hand held equipment like this because of the different angles they are run at, which is likely contributing to the issues you mention. With that said, I wouldn't be worried about any of these issues actually hurting longevity of the machine, they are just quirks that you will need to get used to. The not starting easily problem is an issue related to the emissions carburetor jetting on most small engines. I have a Craftsman leaf blower that has never started easily since it was new. It takes at least 5-6 pulls. I've tried a new carburetor, several different spark plugs, modified a carburetor so I could mess with the jetting, removed the spark arrester screen thinking it was clogged, and it still takes the same number of pulls to start. It's just a design flaw. Meanwhile my 22 year old Makita weed whacker has all original components and starts on the second pull no matter if it's been sitting for a week, or 4 months.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
I appreciate the response, jeepman. Just that I am noticing too much similarities between starting and ambient temperature outside. Even in the slightest temperature difference. For example, the weather is in the high 40s today and I had to pull 11 times when trying to start outside. I hope 5W will provide a better, easier oil flow in the engine, regardless of most weather conditions.
I raised the dipstick issue because what it takes to be in the high end of the dipstick while not threading is literally just a drop from oil spilling over. But nonetheless, that's how I filled it thus far, until I saw a YouTube video doing the opposite.
Synthetic oil won't improve any of those things, unfortunately, at least in a way that is noticeable. Most of those issues are related to the machine itself (carburetor for the starting, piston rings for the oil burning, etc). Ryobi is not a brand that is well known for quality, unfortunately. 4 cycle engines are just not ideal on small hand held equipment like this because of the different angles they are run at, which is likely contributing to the issues you mention. With that said, I wouldn't be worried about any of these issues actually hurting longevity of the machine, they are just quirks that you will need to get used to. The not starting easily problem is an issue related to the emissions carburetor jetting on most small engines. I have a Craftsman leaf blower that has never started easily since it was new. It takes at least 5-6 pulls. I've tried a new carburetor, several different spark plugs, modified a carburetor so I could mess with the jetting, removed the spark arrester screen thinking it was clogged, and it still takes the same number of pulls to start. It's just a design flaw. Meanwhile my 22 year old Makita weed whacker has all original components and starts on the second pull no matter if it's been sitting for a week, or 4 months.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
I appreciate the response, jeepman. Just that I am noticing too much similarities between starting and ambient temperature outside. Even in the slightest temperature difference. For example, the weather is in the high 40s today and I had to pull 11 times when trying to start outside. I hope 5W will provide a better, easier oil flow in the engine, regardless of most weather conditions.
I raised the dipstick issue because what it takes to be in the high end of the dipstick while not threading is literally just a drop from oil spilling over. But nonetheless, that's how I filled it thus far, until I saw a YouTube video doing the opposite.
Originally Posted by dinofish
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
Synthetic oil won't improve any of those things, unfortunately, at least in a way that is noticeable. Most of those issues are related to the machine itself (carburetor for the starting, piston rings for the oil burning, etc). Ryobi is not a brand that is well known for quality, unfortunately. 4 cycle engines are just not ideal on small hand held equipment like this because of the different angles they are run at, which is likely contributing to the issues you mention. With that said, I wouldn't be worried about any of these issues actually hurting longevity of the machine, they are just quirks that you will need to get used to. The not starting easily problem is an issue related to the emissions carburetor jetting on most small engines. I have a Craftsman leaf blower that has never started easily since it was new. It takes at least 5-6 pulls. I've tried a new carburetor, several different spark plugs, modified a carburetor so I could mess with the jetting, removed the spark arrester screen thinking it was clogged, and it still takes the same number of pulls to start. It's just a design flaw. Meanwhile my 22 year old Makita weed whacker has all original components and starts on the second pull no matter if it's been sitting for a week, or 4 months.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
I appreciate the response, jeepman. Just that I am noticing too much similarities between starting and ambient temperature outside. Even in the slightest temperature difference. For example, the weather is in the high 40s today and I had to pull 11 times when trying to start outside. I hope 5W will provide a better, easier oil flow in the engine, regardless of most weather conditions.
I raised the dipstick issue because what it takes to be in the high end of the dipstick while not threading is literally just a drop from oil spilling over. But nonetheless, that's how I filled it thus far, until I saw a YouTube video doing the opposite.
The temperature difference likely impacts the air density and the fuel mixture in the carburetor.
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
Synthetic oil won't improve any of those things, unfortunately, at least in a way that is noticeable. Most of those issues are related to the machine itself (carburetor for the starting, piston rings for the oil burning, etc). Ryobi is not a brand that is well known for quality, unfortunately. 4 cycle engines are just not ideal on small hand held equipment like this because of the different angles they are run at, which is likely contributing to the issues you mention. With that said, I wouldn't be worried about any of these issues actually hurting longevity of the machine, they are just quirks that you will need to get used to. The not starting easily problem is an issue related to the emissions carburetor jetting on most small engines. I have a Craftsman leaf blower that has never started easily since it was new. It takes at least 5-6 pulls. I've tried a new carburetor, several different spark plugs, modified a carburetor so I could mess with the jetting, removed the spark arrester screen thinking it was clogged, and it still takes the same number of pulls to start. It's just a design flaw. Meanwhile my 22 year old Makita weed whacker has all original components and starts on the second pull no matter if it's been sitting for a week, or 4 months.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
I appreciate the response, jeepman. Just that I am noticing too much similarities between starting and ambient temperature outside. Even in the slightest temperature difference. For example, the weather is in the high 40s today and I had to pull 11 times when trying to start outside. I hope 5W will provide a better, easier oil flow in the engine, regardless of most weather conditions.
I raised the dipstick issue because what it takes to be in the high end of the dipstick while not threading is literally just a drop from oil spilling over. But nonetheless, that's how I filled it thus far, until I saw a YouTube video doing the opposite.
The temperature difference likely impacts the air density and the fuel mixture in the carburetor.
I previously mentioned that as well.
dinofish, not sure why you wouldn't pull and check the spark plug and exhaust screen to rule them out as I recommended? That would help level the playing field for your tests.
I'm still not sure why you think it's the oil? Your first post indicated it's run well for years running SAE30 and only the last couple of changes you've noticed oil use.
Regarding flow at startup, if it's the Home Depot B&S SAE30, it's likely already thinner above freezing temps than the recommended 20W50.
dinofish, not sure why you wouldn't pull and check the spark plug and exhaust screen to rule them out as I recommended? That would help level the playing field for your tests.
I'm still not sure why you think it's the oil? Your first post indicated it's run well for years running SAE30 and only the last couple of changes you've noticed oil use.
Regarding flow at startup, if it's the Home Depot B&S SAE30, it's likely already thinner above freezing temps than the recommended 20W50.
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
Originally Posted by dinofish
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
Synthetic oil won't improve any of those things, unfortunately, at least in a way that is noticeable. Most of those issues are related to the machine itself (carburetor for the starting, piston rings for the oil burning, etc). Ryobi is not a brand that is well known for quality, unfortunately. 4 cycle engines are just not ideal on small hand held equipment like this because of the different angles they are run at, which is likely contributing to the issues you mention. With that said, I wouldn't be worried about any of these issues actually hurting longevity of the machine, they are just quirks that you will need to get used to. The not starting easily problem is an issue related to the emissions carburetor jetting on most small engines. I have a Craftsman leaf blower that has never started easily since it was new. It takes at least 5-6 pulls. I've tried a new carburetor, several different spark plugs, modified a carburetor so I could mess with the jetting, removed the spark arrester screen thinking it was clogged, and it still takes the same number of pulls to start. It's just a design flaw. Meanwhile my 22 year old Makita weed whacker has all original components and starts on the second pull no matter if it's been sitting for a week, or 4 months.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
I appreciate the response, jeepman. Just that I am noticing too much similarities between starting and ambient temperature outside. Even in the slightest temperature difference. For example, the weather is in the high 40s today and I had to pull 11 times when trying to start outside. I hope 5W will provide a better, easier oil flow in the engine, regardless of most weather conditions.
I raised the dipstick issue because what it takes to be in the high end of the dipstick while not threading is literally just a drop from oil spilling over. But nonetheless, that's how I filled it thus far, until I saw a YouTube video doing the opposite.
The temperature difference likely impacts the air density and the fuel mixture in the carburetor.
Perhaps. But how come machines start better with lower viscosity oil in colder temperatures? Doesn't that mean oil and its viscosity has some role in starting?
Originally Posted by dinofish
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
Synthetic oil won't improve any of those things, unfortunately, at least in a way that is noticeable. Most of those issues are related to the machine itself (carburetor for the starting, piston rings for the oil burning, etc). Ryobi is not a brand that is well known for quality, unfortunately. 4 cycle engines are just not ideal on small hand held equipment like this because of the different angles they are run at, which is likely contributing to the issues you mention. With that said, I wouldn't be worried about any of these issues actually hurting longevity of the machine, they are just quirks that you will need to get used to. The not starting easily problem is an issue related to the emissions carburetor jetting on most small engines. I have a Craftsman leaf blower that has never started easily since it was new. It takes at least 5-6 pulls. I've tried a new carburetor, several different spark plugs, modified a carburetor so I could mess with the jetting, removed the spark arrester screen thinking it was clogged, and it still takes the same number of pulls to start. It's just a design flaw. Meanwhile my 22 year old Makita weed whacker has all original components and starts on the second pull no matter if it's been sitting for a week, or 4 months.
Not re-threading the dipstick to check oil makes sense, as most Honda small engines use this same method.
I appreciate the response, jeepman. Just that I am noticing too much similarities between starting and ambient temperature outside. Even in the slightest temperature difference. For example, the weather is in the high 40s today and I had to pull 11 times when trying to start outside. I hope 5W will provide a better, easier oil flow in the engine, regardless of most weather conditions.
I raised the dipstick issue because what it takes to be in the high end of the dipstick while not threading is literally just a drop from oil spilling over. But nonetheless, that's how I filled it thus far, until I saw a YouTube video doing the opposite.
The temperature difference likely impacts the air density and the fuel mixture in the carburetor.
Perhaps. But how come machines start better with lower viscosity oil in colder temperatures? Doesn't that mean oil and its viscosity has some role in starting?
Originally Posted by Zaedock
I previously mentioned that as well.
dinofish, not sure why you wouldn't pull and check the spark plug and exhaust screen to rule them out as I recommended? That would help level the playing field for your tests.
I'm still not sure why you think it's the oil? Your first post indicated it's run well for years running SAE30 and only the last couple of changes you've noticed oil use.
Regarding flow at startup, if it's the Home Depot B&S SAE30, it's likely already thinner above freezing temps than the recommended 20W50.
I am not going to do that. Even if synthetic oil fails to provide benefits, I won't do that. The only scenario which I might take off the spark plug is if the blower fails to start. Me meddling with stuff unnecessarily will only create problems, as I believe everything comes off factory spec regarding torque, etc.
I previously mentioned that as well.
dinofish, not sure why you wouldn't pull and check the spark plug and exhaust screen to rule them out as I recommended? That would help level the playing field for your tests.
I'm still not sure why you think it's the oil? Your first post indicated it's run well for years running SAE30 and only the last couple of changes you've noticed oil use.
Regarding flow at startup, if it's the Home Depot B&S SAE30, it's likely already thinner above freezing temps than the recommended 20W50.
I am not going to do that. Even if synthetic oil fails to provide benefits, I won't do that. The only scenario which I might take off the spark plug is if the blower fails to start. Me meddling with stuff unnecessarily will only create problems, as I believe everything comes off factory spec regarding torque, etc.
Update May 22, 2020
I changed the newly fresh SAE 30 weight oil in both the Toro mower and Ryobi leaf blower to Mobil 1 5W-30. I first ran both engines dry. And during oil change, I ran into a surprise. I got couple more ounces of warm oil from just the mower than when changing its oil cold. The oil in both had turned dark brown after just a month of use only on weekends, which is clearly not a good sign, and an indication that there is probably too much heat generated in the engines. There was no discernible decrease in oil amounts. Mower probably has only about six hours of use, and the blower probably has less than 45 minutes of use.
Initial observations after switch to synthetic 5W-30: The mower started with one pull, and the Ryobi leaf blower started with second pull. But this could have been influenced by it being warm from starting before and having fresh gas. Sound wise, I personally think they sound the same as before, maybe the Toro mower sounds a bit calmer, but too early to tell.
Will update again in a month.
I changed the newly fresh SAE 30 weight oil in both the Toro mower and Ryobi leaf blower to Mobil 1 5W-30. I first ran both engines dry. And during oil change, I ran into a surprise. I got couple more ounces of warm oil from just the mower than when changing its oil cold. The oil in both had turned dark brown after just a month of use only on weekends, which is clearly not a good sign, and an indication that there is probably too much heat generated in the engines. There was no discernible decrease in oil amounts. Mower probably has only about six hours of use, and the blower probably has less than 45 minutes of use.
Initial observations after switch to synthetic 5W-30: The mower started with one pull, and the Ryobi leaf blower started with second pull. But this could have been influenced by it being warm from starting before and having fresh gas. Sound wise, I personally think they sound the same as before, maybe the Toro mower sounds a bit calmer, but too early to tell.
Will update again in a month.
A one-day update.
Since today was a bit colder in the morning and it was around 24 hours after changing oil, I decided to try turning on the Ryobi blower. I primed 10x slowly, and with one pull, it started! Ran it in choke for about 20 seconds and then set it to run. Then I noticed a smell, but no smoke. Almost like the smell of oil burning, or it could have been the exhaust since it was an enclosed area. But I have never noticed this smell before and this was very apparent. Certainly something to keep watch over, not to mention the oil level.
I did notice another improvement. With SAE 30, the power always goes down slightly when moving the choke lever to run from full choke, which I always thought was weird. But this morning with the new oil, the power slightly increased when doing the same! So, I am happy about that. And I hope the smell isn't the oil burning off. I have only used it for about three minutes after the oil change..
Since today was a bit colder in the morning and it was around 24 hours after changing oil, I decided to try turning on the Ryobi blower. I primed 10x slowly, and with one pull, it started! Ran it in choke for about 20 seconds and then set it to run. Then I noticed a smell, but no smoke. Almost like the smell of oil burning, or it could have been the exhaust since it was an enclosed area. But I have never noticed this smell before and this was very apparent. Certainly something to keep watch over, not to mention the oil level.
I did notice another improvement. With SAE 30, the power always goes down slightly when moving the choke lever to run from full choke, which I always thought was weird. But this morning with the new oil, the power slightly increased when doing the same! So, I am happy about that. And I hope the smell isn't the oil burning off. I have only used it for about three minutes after the oil change..
More than one-month update.
All right, the results are mixed with synthetic Mobil 1 5W-30. I had improved starting with Toro mower and Ryobi leaf blower, with mower starting in one pull almost all the time, and leaf blower starting in one to three pulls. (Worth mentioning again that I use premium gas) But, and this is a huge but, I had oil burning issues in both machines while using them once weekly. The leaf blower probably lost quarter of an ounce in a month and the mower probably lost half an ounce in the same time period. I never had burning issues with SAE 30W in the Toro mower, and only lost oil with Ryobi leaf blower. The smell I mentioned in previous post is definitely from oil, smell which I never had with SAE 30W. And also, the oil seems to have changed color, just like the SAE 30W did in one month. I think from these results, I will be going back to SAE 30W from next oil change.
Another bad experience of mine with this lower viscosity synthetic oil is when I flipped over the Toro mower to clean the underside. I made sure to flip it over with air filter on top. I cleaned for about an hour, and after returning to normal position and having it stay in that position for over four hours, the mower would not start with even ten pulls. I then checked the oil and waited five minutes and tried again, to which it then started. But, I had light smoke. The light smoking persisted for about 10 minutes. I am guessing the lower weight oil left some areas that it was in when I flipped it over. The burning issues with the mower started right after this incident. Toro makes it clear in their manual to not turn the mower over with fuel in the tank. Lesson learned.
The improved starting is probably from lower starting viscosity of the oil, but synthetic oil did not have as much capacity to prevent heat burn-off like conventional oil. I am disappointed, but the results speak for themselves. Maybe I will try Pennzoil brand of 30W next time and see how that goes.
Thank you all for reading and participating.
All right, the results are mixed with synthetic Mobil 1 5W-30. I had improved starting with Toro mower and Ryobi leaf blower, with mower starting in one pull almost all the time, and leaf blower starting in one to three pulls. (Worth mentioning again that I use premium gas) But, and this is a huge but, I had oil burning issues in both machines while using them once weekly. The leaf blower probably lost quarter of an ounce in a month and the mower probably lost half an ounce in the same time period. I never had burning issues with SAE 30W in the Toro mower, and only lost oil with Ryobi leaf blower. The smell I mentioned in previous post is definitely from oil, smell which I never had with SAE 30W. And also, the oil seems to have changed color, just like the SAE 30W did in one month. I think from these results, I will be going back to SAE 30W from next oil change.
Another bad experience of mine with this lower viscosity synthetic oil is when I flipped over the Toro mower to clean the underside. I made sure to flip it over with air filter on top. I cleaned for about an hour, and after returning to normal position and having it stay in that position for over four hours, the mower would not start with even ten pulls. I then checked the oil and waited five minutes and tried again, to which it then started. But, I had light smoke. The light smoking persisted for about 10 minutes. I am guessing the lower weight oil left some areas that it was in when I flipped it over. The burning issues with the mower started right after this incident. Toro makes it clear in their manual to not turn the mower over with fuel in the tank. Lesson learned.
The improved starting is probably from lower starting viscosity of the oil, but synthetic oil did not have as much capacity to prevent heat burn-off like conventional oil. I am disappointed, but the results speak for themselves. Maybe I will try Pennzoil brand of 30W next time and see how that goes.
Thank you all for reading and participating.
If my 4 stroke blower calls for straight 30 weight oil, any reason not to use synthetic 5W-30 if I happen to keep it around?
