30 weight oil

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"Well my results in the past has been that conventional 10w30 oil burns off from the heat, it also seems to thin out really bad."

I use synthetics or blends such as 10W30 (Redline), 5W40 (Delvac 1), or a 15W40 (Shaeffer's) and have never had cook-off in any of my B&S' or Kohlers which range from 7 to 25 Hp. I also find these oils run cooler than straight SAE 30 weights or Mobil 1 SuperSyn 15w50.
 
Thanks for all the replies from everyone. Most of you noticed that synthetic oil was not what i wanted to use. If anyone here mows grass for a living, then you know how worn out an air cooled engine can be at 1200 hours because heat kills!! If i had a rider or push mower and i only mowed my own grass then i might put 80 hours on it a year if that much. keep in mind that i use commercial mowers not wal mart specials.I am still using rotella 30 wt in most of my machines because it is a diesel oil and seems to hold up ok. I have put rotella 15w40 oil in a few machines and they seem to be fine with it. The moly issue is a good point. I have used rotella for years because that was supposed to be the best. My cummins and international diesels never had any oil related problems period. Now i was not aware that rotella did not have moly but on the other hand i havent had any engine trouble with non moly oil either. I will try penz 15w40 oil in a few mowers as i do think the moly will help the air cooled engine during use. Im sure the moly will hold up at air cooled engine temps. Penz 15w40 is almost 1 buck cheaper a gallon than rotella. Whats up with that? I looked at a few dixie chopper mowers and they blew me away. They come with an amsoil bp 80 or 90 bypass filter from the factory
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!!!! To be continued....
 
Danzig, among the 15W40 fleet oils, I’ve used Chevron Delo400 the most with a recent switch to the Schaeffer synthetic (PAO) blend. The synthetic blend allows for slightly easier cold starting and the Schaeffer oil has a more potent additive package. But even the Delo400 seemed to cut down on wear whenever I switched a machine over to it … but that’s merely anecdotal (visual inspection of the drain pan). I have done no lab testing to date. I’m considering doing a lab test on a sample from our Honda 18hp (liquid-cooled, twin-cylinder with a spin-on filter) tractor this fall: approximately 50-60 hours of use over 12-13months. Because of the many months involved, TBN (Total Base Number) testing would be useful to see how well corrosion is being kept in check. Maybe I just need to get a life?
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In automotive testing, we’ve seen good results from both Del400 and Pennzoil Long Life 15W40s. Others such as your Rotella, Mobil Delvac, etc … are probably also very good but no gasoline used oil analysis results come to mind. Valvoline has come out with a new fleet oil in a black & blue bottle and has moly (agaion, according to a used oil analysis) but I’ve not been too impressed with anything out of Valvoline’s house and prefer most other brands if given a choice. Motorcraft 15W40 has no moly … but a lot of boron which plays a similar role. Might make a good motorcycle oil for moly-intolerant clutches. Hard to say for sure.

I like Pennzoil’s additive package primarily due to its moly and boron. Johhny used to be a regular on this site and he works for Pennzoil corporate in Wiscaahnsin. He doesn’t post here as much as he used to. I’d like to think he has been too busy turning laps at Road America in a Formula Ford but the truth is probably something much more domestic and mundane. Occasionally, like El Diablo, he comes out of hiding when his name is spoken.
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The subject of 15W40 oils came up in another sub-section of this forum several months ago and Johnny was bragging about some new shear-resistant viscosity index improver Pennzoil was using. Shell had developed it for them but Pennzoil had exclusive rights to it …. Shell couldn’t even use it in their Rotella oil. He was crowing about taking accounts away from other competitors … Schaeffer included.
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So why is the Pennzoil Long Life cheaper? I have no idea. In most stores, Delo400, Rotella and Mobil Delvac are all priced within a few pennies of each other per quart. Then along comes Pennzoil for $0.25 less. Go figure. So much of an oil's cost is marketing and distribution.
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“Now I was not aware that Rotella did not have moly but on the other hand I haven’t had any engine trouble with non-moly oil either.”

Keep in mind that we have seen more oil formulation changes in the past two years than in the previous decade. Just when we think we have a handle on a given brand’s formulation(s), they update/change it. Lately this has been more and more companies adding at least some molybdenum to their oils when 2 years ago it was very rare. As for actual trouble with a brand of modern oil, that’s unlikely with frequent changes of any oil … but you did say you have worn out motors before which makes your circumstances “special” and worthy of greater attention than most lawn & garden applications.

Interesting on the factory bypass filtration of the Dixie Choppers. But that’d be a bigger waste for you than running a premium (read: $5-$8 per qt.) synthetic oil. Bypass filtration only makes sense if you are running seriously extended drain intervals but your stable of iron gets fresh oil weekly. Still, it’s interesting to see that someone thinks it’s worth the trouble. I still think it would pay off for manufacturers to spend more time and attention on air filtration … especially with all the dust mower decks kick up. Maybe an over-sized airbox covered in a multiple-layer foam pre-cleaner with different densities of oiled foam?

“I’m sure the moly will hold up at air-cooled engine temps.”

It should. Moly doesn’t even come into play until parts of the engine get really hot … like 300F+. Then it is pulled out of suspension and bonds/plates to the hot metal parts of the motor where wear is the biggest problem. An air-cooled engine is an application which seems almost tailor made for a high-moly oil ... or the other way around.

If you do any testing of used oil samples, please post them here. I think that’s the only way to be sure if you’re getting enhanced wear protection.
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--- Bror Jace
 
The Dixie Chopper does have a serious air filtration system. It is called a Donaldson air filtration kit. Very good system and you can fit it to about any (12.5 hp and up) engine. It consists of a large cannister with 2 air filters inside. The filters are at least 1 foot long and and one fits inside of the other. The cannister sits high above the engine with the air intake at the top of the cannister. The outter filter screens out large particles and the inner filter screens out the small particles. Filters are changed at 200 hour intervals. Powered by a kohler 27 or 28 horse and also a generac 30 hp option. The engine comes with conventional oil. A good filtration setup to keep the engine running for a long time. The system seems to scream "drain the conventional break in oil at 8 hours and replace with synthetic".
 
Danzig, Wow, someone did put some thought into the air filtration!.
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The machine seems like it's designed to run hard with absolutely minimum downtime. Just what you guys like.

Yep, for this application, I'd probably run Red Line 10W30 for the 200 hour service interval.
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--- Bror Jace
 
Danzig, I'm curious as to the economics of not using synthetic oil assuming it is superior to dino. If it would decrease no. of oil changes and increase engine life giving you perhaps an extra 300 hours at $10 an hour, would not that $3000 be worth the cost of synthetic? That would also decrease the no. of machines in a given time period of say 10 years. Don't know how many quarts one of those machines holds, but based on four quarts with a difference in price of approx. $3 per qt., 37 oil changes would be approx. $450 difference if you changed out every 40 hours.
I was just wondering what your figures showed the dino being more cost effective?
 
Not scientific, but over the years we've talked to a lot of landscapers running Dixie Choppers. Many of them use AMSOIL 10w30, and change oil and filter yearly. Some have 7,000 to 10,000 hours with machinery still running strong.
 
7000 to 10,000 hours on an air cooled engine. Sounds like you took the bait
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Sure there are guys who get 3000 hours on an air cooled kohler but they are not pretty engines at that end of their life. At that point those engines have tolerances that gear grease couldnt fill
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Amsoil would buy those machines for advertising if they really had that many hours on them and still worked. If i could run an engine all summer on one oil fill and 2 filter changes then i would be HAPPY. After reading used oil analysis on ams im not sure that stuff is really all that great. To answer the conventional oil question all i have to say is syn costs roughly 4x what regular conventional does. Yeah sure put in ams or Mobil 1 or whatever and pay 30 bucks to see what this stuff has in it after 40 hours. Or just change the conventional at 40 hours. Read my beginning post and you will see why i run conventional and how long i keep my equipment.
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Wow i noticed a change in my 23 horse kawi that i filled with 15w40 oil. At 19 hours of use on this oil i only had to add a sparse amount of oil(4 oz) to top off the crankcase. This oil is starting to get really dark but it seems to hold up. Mowed with this machine on the hottest and second hottest day of the year. The humidity was way up on these days and i was ready to go for the shade and drink beer by 2:00 in the afternoon. My 60" walk behind with the kohler engine seems to consume 10/30 ss at a higher rate than the dino. Whats up with that?
 
“Wow, I noticed a change in my 23 horse Kawi that I filled with 15W40 oil. At 19 hours of use on this oil I only had to add a sparse amount of oil (4oz.) to top off the crankcase.”

You seem surprised.
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Keep in mind that this stuff is in use by truckers for many tens of thousands of miles between changes. Sure, they have aquarium-sized sumps but the oil still has to be awfully stable for that kind of use.

“This oil is starting to get really dark but it seems to hold up. Mowed with this machine on the hottest and second hottest day of the year. The humidity was way up on these days and I was ready to go for the shade and drink beer by 2:00 in the afternoon.”

Sounds like you gave it a good workout. I attribute the darkening to the extra detergency of the diesel oils (as a class). I take it this was not a new mower?

Keep in mind that the latest formulation of Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 should be even better than the Rotella you said you were using. It supposedly has a better (more shear resistant) viscosity index improver and it has a very potent barrier anti-wear package featuring both moly and some form of boron. These additives really come into play under high-load conditions such as trailer towing, high-rpm operation or possibly a highly stressed (heavily loaded) small engine. There is a VOA of the Pennzoil on this site … not sure about a recent VOA of Rotella.
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“My 60" walk-behind with the Kohler engine seems to consume 10W30 SS at a higher rate than the dino. What’s up with that?”

Mobil 1 SuperSyn? There’s something odd about Mobil 1’s base oils in the last few years. My Honda Civic did really well on this stuff. I went 100,000 miles using 5,000 - 6,000 mile drain intervals and it didn’t burn a drop between changes. It didn’t matter whether I was using 5W30 or 10W30. This was their older formula, as well as their Tri-Synthetic. Yet, some cars (Late model GM V8s) seem to guzzle the same exact stuff. Who knows?
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--- Bror Jace
 
This 15w40 oil seems to smoke alot on the first start of the day. Straight 30 wt rarely smoked on start up. Maybe the 15w40 is cooking off a bit from the heat.


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All the guys from Samhain, The Misfits, and Danzig are my mowing crews!!!
 
I think it's the 15W40 which is thinner at cooler temps. A bit of this is probably leaking into the cylinders as it sits and that's why the consumption is low ... but you're still getting visisble smoke.

I'm not sure if it's getting past the valves or the rings.
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My Honda 3.5hp started smoking a year or so ago and I only ran 5/10W30 in it its whole life (15+ years). Switching to a 15W40 this year didn't change the puff of smoke at start-up.
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--- Bror Jace
 
This engine does not have enough hours on it ( less than 300 hours)to be worn enough to have valve or ring problems. I noticed that i only get smoke if i mow my yard or a neighbors and then put up the mower with the engine still hot. Fire it up the next morning and poof blue smoke. If i let the engine cool off for a few minutes before i put it up no smoke in the morning. 30 wt rarely smoked.
 
When you say "put it up" what do you mean? Haul it up onto the back of your truck or trailer? Tipping the engine could cause oil to get where it's not supposed to be.

I found this out the hard way many years ago when I tipped a push mower on its side to get at the blade and the oil ran out the open exhaust valve. Smoked like crazy for 30 seconds and then began knocking because it had no oil in it.
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I've had other less traumatic experiences with tipping mowers backward to mow down low shrubbery. Sudden "whooshes" of smoke ... but it didn't use an appreciable amount. Just kept the skeeters from botherin' me for a while.
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Do they build the engines in your machines with fairly loose tolerances?

Other than those ideas I'm stumped.
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When you say "cooking off," I'm not sure what you mean?
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--- Bror Jace
 
When i put up my mowers that means they go in the pole barn for the night. There is a downward slant to the dirt floor so that may be a contributing factor to the morning smoke. When i say the oil is cooking off that means it is thinning out from the heat. I will let the engine cool off abit before i put it up. The engine does not smoke every morning but it could be that a valve is open just enough to allow a little oil to get inside.
 
Some small 4-cycle engines have a small reed valve that assists the oiling of the valve stem guides and also acts as a miniature PCV system. If it is gunked closed, then it will suck oil across the the valve stems all the time and into the intake manifold or carbuerater.

Check and see if this reed valve is gunked.

[ July 29, 2003, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
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