2GR-FKS V2 1st Spark plug change gap question new .031 outgoing .028 gap

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Aug 30, 2023
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Did my 1st spark plug change on a 2019 Highlander with 96000 KM.

I only did the easy to access 3 plugs today and I have one big , that's unexpected, ( well I have 2)

the new plugs, on my lang 4450a gap tool shows a gap of about .031 . All the 6 new plugs have a gap that's close to that.

new plug :
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New plug different view :
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.
But the plugs I pulled they are all under , I would guess about .028

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So I have seen a few pictures of plugs here on thread's for the 2GR-FKS plug but no one is measuring the gap of the outgoing plugs.

Is this why we are changing them ? over the life cycle the heat makes them bend inwards? I would have expected the old plugs to have larger gaps as electrode material is worn away, I guess that does not happen because the tiny ends are iridium but the bigger part of the electrode a none - iridium metal.

old plug all 3 looked the same :

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Never heard of this. I'm guessing they were gapped about .028" to begin with. Maybe slightly less but my understanding is iridium doesn't necessarily erode much.
 
Be very careful using that type of thickness gauge on those spark plugs. That little tiny tip on the ground electrode is susceptible to damage if you're dragging a thickness gauge over it. Wire gauges are the recommended tool for iridium and platinum tipped plugs. Save the nail files for the standard plugs.

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Update : straight from the Toyota TIS for this 2019 Highlander, Factory plugs are have gap that goes from .0276 to .0315 !, and the gap can be as high as .0433 !

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You're good to go then. I think exact gap is not the worry it once was.
I agree with this. I mean absolutely set them properly if you're doing the job, but sometimes you'll see plugs come out with gaps that are on the extreme ends of the specs (and beyond) and the vehicle was running fine.

As with everything for me, there's ideal (and idealistic) and then there's real life.
 
I believe @The Critic recos this. He says it's optional but makes life way easier and is worth the minimal time investment
Really on 2019 model ? A few years ago I changed my factory struts for some B6's and I had wiper assembly off and I don't recall allot more space in that area, picture below from that job. I guess I had it partially disassembled, I will remove intake as I got the gaskets today and I will also clean the throttle body with the Toyota cleaner.

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Really on 2019 model ? A few years ago I changed my factory struts for some B6's and I had wiper assembly off and I don't recall allot more space in that area, picture below from that job. I guess I had it partially disassembled, I will remove intake as I got the gaskets today and I will also clean the throttle body with the Toyota cleaner.

View attachment 238881
Good point, we were talking earlier circa '14
 
Put them back in and change them at 200k kl. Now fluids, brake, coolant and trans should all have been changed with the plugs.
Well for ****s and giggles I just replaced them all, I'll keep the old one as they are still good.

I had a few unexpected surprises : out of 4 out of 6 spark plugs were not torqued, they came off with minimal effort.

Major cylinder wall scoring on 5 of the 6 piston's

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Kicking myself for not having borescope at 42 000KM when we purchased this one used, or prior to going to dealer for the gasket jobs.

Under my ownership it went to 2 different Toyota dealer to have time cover gasket redone and the last time the engine head gaskets. I don't have proof but I suspect the left top end contaminated. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...lander-v6-at-50-000-miles.373972/post-6930518

But I dogged a major bullet : An hour after I suddenly remember I did not start the engine after I finished everything tonight, and here is why major destruction would have occured.

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Yeap, I forgot about super long wrench I was using to turn over the engine while borescoping.

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Looks like a Canadian Tire brand wrench.
Maybe go buy a Super Max or a 6/49 for
tomorrow's draws. Ride the luck as far as you can. Good Luck!
 
I wonder if the stop/start system contributes to the scoring.
it shouldn't, everything is coated with oil by the time that engages. and it isn't shut off long enough for the oil to drain down.
 
I seem to recall the larger the gap, the higher horsepower you can get. I would widen the gap to the upper range of your specification.
 
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