Say you want an appliance (oven range) that requires 240V. What would be required for the house electrical system to support it?
240V appliance?
- Thread starter Quattro Pete
- Start date
- Status
They usually draw 50 amps or so, you'd need a circuit breaker/fuse & wiring to handle the rated (on the data plate) amperage. 50 A would be 6 gauge, 40 A would be 8 gauge.
And make sure your master panel can handle the breaker. I think max. breaker in a panel is half the master breaker rating.
The master is 200 amps, and the appliance requires 40 amps.
So, basically, I would need a breaker/fuse and run new wiring from the master panel to the kitchen outlet where this appliance would be plugged in?
So, basically, I would need a breaker/fuse and run new wiring from the master panel to the kitchen outlet where this appliance would be plugged in?
Along with an outlet and inspection. Sounds real easy but can take some real work depending on access.
Why not to use a transformator ? I used it for 110V appliances in Europe. Think there should be a similar device for 220V.
It is really easy, but like Tempest said, access and pulling the wire in accordance with building code could be very difficult.
I just finished doing all of the electrical work for my basement development. This work is very easy when the construction is at bare studs. You need attention to detail and an understanding of local building codes. Typically to run one circuit like that, it would be simple to figure out the applicable codes.
You will be shocked at the cost of copper, especially on a 6-8 gauge (depending upon length and amperage) wire with 4 conductors (as you will need). If you've never done this work before, have someone who has done it (if need be an electrician) make the connection to the breaker/panel.
I just finished doing all of the electrical work for my basement development. This work is very easy when the construction is at bare studs. You need attention to detail and an understanding of local building codes. Typically to run one circuit like that, it would be simple to figure out the applicable codes.
You will be shocked at the cost of copper, especially on a 6-8 gauge (depending upon length and amperage) wire with 4 conductors (as you will need). If you've never done this work before, have someone who has done it (if need be an electrician) make the connection to the breaker/panel.
What ever you do, DONT use aluminum cable.
Originally Posted By: Primus
Why not to use a transformator ? I used it for 110V appliances in Europe. Think there should be a similar device for 220V.
a 40Amp 240V transformer would be huge. Something that powerful should not be run off a transformer.
Why not to use a transformator ? I used it for 110V appliances in Europe. Think there should be a similar device for 220V.
a 40Amp 240V transformer would be huge. Something that powerful should not be run off a transformer.
40 amps in the secondary would mean 80 amps in the primary that would be some big wiring and transformer...
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Originally Posted By: Primus
Why not to use a transformator ? I used it for 110V appliances in Europe. Think there should be a similar device for 220V.
a 40Amp 240V transformer would be huge. Something that powerful should not be run off a transformer.
Not to mention that a lot of 240V appliances have some 120V components. The 240V supply is actually two 120V lines half out of phase, so it is 240 between them (but 120 from either to neutral).
So you can't just use a simple (but heavy) transformer to double it, because that wouldn't give you 120 to neutral...
Originally Posted By: Primus
Why not to use a transformator ? I used it for 110V appliances in Europe. Think there should be a similar device for 220V.
a 40Amp 240V transformer would be huge. Something that powerful should not be run off a transformer.
Not to mention that a lot of 240V appliances have some 120V components. The 240V supply is actually two 120V lines half out of phase, so it is 240 between them (but 120 from either to neutral).
So you can't just use a simple (but heavy) transformer to double it, because that wouldn't give you 120 to neutral...
I saw a pole transformer changed recently, typical 3-4 houses are hooked to them max. It was larger than I would guess from the ground, you would need something comparably sized, expensive, hot, and humming. Home ac is a single phase usually, and the secondary is center tapped and grounded. IMHO.
It's often cheaper (and acceptable) to use 100 amp aluminum service entrance cable than the proper grade copper. The breaker and outlet people know this and will have aluminum compatible contacts with anti-ox goo. What my house was wired with.
SE is often 3 conductor. When my house was built in 1970, you could get away with running SE. Now you need 2 hots, a neutral and ground.
Naw, they all 4 have to be in one cable or conduit. Do it right now, or do it over when the inspector sees it or you sell the house. When you sell a house, you can be forced to bring everything up to code at the time it was installed.
- Status
