2020 Subaru 2.4l Turbo 18.4k mi; Mobil 1 T-SUV 5w-30/AFE 0w-20 blend, 3.3k mi

I have about 33k miles on my '22 wrx (GDI 2.4T), noticed very very slight hint of metal in my used oil, a slight sheen of sparkle only noticeable when drain pan is empty, and under light at an angle, the oil itself did not appear metallic or with sparkles. No chunks or flakes. I think these engines take a long time to break in. My OCI is about 3k every 3 months because of .....turbo subaru. I was running M1 0w-20 EP, trying out AFE now. My biggest concern is sheering to a 16w or lower within 3k miles from dilution etc (never did a UOA), I know subaru turbo boxer rod bearings can be....weak.....and don't want something like this to hasten the bearing wear.
 
I have about 33k miles on my '22 wrx (GDI 2.4T), noticed very very slight hint of metal in my used oil, a slight sheen of sparkle only noticeable when drain pan is empty, and under light at an angle, the oil itself did not appear metallic or with sparkles. No chunks or flakes. I think these engines take a long time to break in. My OCI is about 3k every 3 months because of .....turbo subaru. I was running M1 0w-20 EP, trying out AFE now. My biggest concern is sheering to a 16w or lower within 3k miles from dilution etc (never did a UOA), I know subaru turbo boxer rod bearings can be....weak.....and don't want something like this to hasten the bearing wear.
Not sure on your metal. But I run a euro 30 weight minimum in my Subaru’s and they’re much happier. Always dropped a grade with API resource conserving oils.
 
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Not sure on your metal. But I run a euro 30 weight minimum in my Subaru’s and they’re much happier. Always dropped a grade with API resource conserving oils.

I would but for warranty purposes I’d think sticking with a 0w-20 on my purchase receipts would bode better in the event of a claim
 
I would but for warranty purposes I’d think sticking with a 0w-20 on my purchase receipts would bode better in the event of a claim
I'm using 5w30 in my 22 wrx. I called SOA and pointed to them the manual states 5w30 in warm climates. They said it should be fine.

Also, if going to 5w30 is a reason for them to deny warranty, I'll make a big deal out of it locally. I'm tired of dealers thinking they can bully people around.

That being said, these engines are stout, especially stock. I've got 35,8xx miles on mine.
 
I would but for warranty purposes I’d think sticking with a 0w-20 on my purchase receipts would bode better in the event of a claim
They cannot claim a step up to 30 weight would harm the engine. Look at it this way...when the engine starts cold, the viscosity is extremely high....much higher than even a 60 weight would be at optimal operating temp. Unless and until you get the engine working fairly hard, the temp may not even reach the "normal" optimal operating temp (somewhere approaching the boiling point of water). Seeing that the oil is "thick enough" at optimal operating temp by using a 20 weight, all the time you are running at less than optimal operating temp, the viscosity is higher than a 20 weight...and there is no "caution" about not running the engine at less-than-optimal operating temp. Using an Xw30 or even Xw40 can NOT be proven to hurt the engine....and that would have to be proven to deny a warranty claim based upon using a higher-than-20 weight oil. In fact, a short-tripped engine that doesn't get the oil up to optimal operating temp is only suggested to change the oil a bit more often (severe service schedule)...they don't recommend to use a thinner-than-20 weight...so this engine oil operates in a "thicker-than-20 weight" environment as long as it is only short-tripped....and it doesn't blow up.
 
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