2018 Mazda CX-9 Alignment Ideas

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Apr 1, 2008
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Arizona
Hello all,

Our CX-9 (currently 95k miles) started pulling to the right at highway speeds several months ago. Had Mazda do an alignment and it was exactly the same. Brought it back and they said that there was a "slight adjustment" and that the computer says it's within spec. No change to pulling. Also seems difficult to find a shop that will do any manual adjustments outside of the computer readout.

I have also rotated/cross rotated the tires to see if it was a tire issue to no avail. Could tires still be a possible issue? They are the Westlake brand, so a budget tire. However, they ride fine and balance is perfect.

Any thoughts/ideas appreciated!
 
Hello all,

Our CX-9 (currently 95k miles) started pulling to the right at highway speeds several months ago. Had Mazda do an alignment and it was exactly the same. Brought it back and they said that there was a "slight adjustment" and that the computer says it's within spec. No change to pulling. Also seems difficult to find a shop that will do any manual adjustments outside of the computer readout.

I have also rotated/cross rotated the tires to see if it was a tire issue to no avail. Could tires still be a possible issue? They are the Westlake brand, so a budget tire. However, they ride fine and balance is perfect.

Any thoughts/ideas appreciated!
I've had good luck at an alignments only shop. I just told the guy what was happening, and what I wanted, and then he did it. No "it is in spec, so we didn't do anything..." or upsell for tires or parts, he just made the car drive how I wanted it.
Maybe for techs who don't do a lot of alignments, they worry more about screwing it up more, than getting it right, as I think it's a bit of art and takes some experience to know how to tweak each adjustment within the allowable specs to get an imperfect car to drive straight.
 
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Hello all,

Our CX-9 (currently 95k miles) started pulling to the right at highway speeds several months ago. Had Mazda do an alignment and it was exactly the same. Brought it back and they said that there was a "slight adjustment" and that the computer says it's within spec. No change to pulling. Also seems difficult to find a shop that will do any manual adjustments outside of the computer readout.

I have also rotated/cross rotated the tires to see if it was a tire issue to no avail. Could tires still be a possible issue? They are the Westlake brand, so a budget tire. However, they ride fine and balance is perfect.

Any thoughts/ideas appreciated!
I've actually had dealer shops do an alignment and it appeared to not change a thing. I ended up trying another shop who regularly checks the calibration and services their alignment machine and bam! Completely different readings on the machine! They aligned it to the stock specs and no more issues. Some management at dealerships do not want to spend the money to maintain their alignment racks.

I've seen the same thing with shops who do not maintain their tire balancers, the machine claims it's balance but you can clearly feel the vibration in the car. shops being cheap..

The other thing is to measure the ride height (measure from level ground up to the beginning of the wheel well arch, 12 oclock position), wondering if it's a sagging bushing or spring. If that all checks out, find another shop, so many of these techs are useless when it comes to doing an alignment correctly AND using the tech that's built into modern wheel alignment racks.

And could you post a picture of the alignment results the shop printed out? Let us have a look at it.
 
Do you notice an abundance of heat at one wheel more than others?

I'll have to check that out.
I've actually had dealer shops do an alignment and it appeared to not change a thing. I ended up trying another shop who regularly checks the calibration and services their alignment machine and bam! Completely different readings on the machine! They aligned it to the stock specs and no more issues. Some management at dealerships do not want to spend the money to maintain their alignment racks.

I've seen the same thing with shops who do not maintain their tire balancers, the machine claims it's balance but you can clearly feel the vibration in the car. shops being cheap..

The other thing is to measure the ride height (measure from level ground up to the beginning of the wheel well arch, 12 oclock position), wondering if it's a sagging bushing or spring. If that all checks out, find another shop, so many of these techs are useless when it comes to doing an alignment correctly AND using the tech that's built into modern wheel alignment racks.

And could you post a picture of the alignment results the shop printed out? Let us have a look at it.
I will call the dealer soon and see about getting the results.

Will also measure both sides.

Thank you for the ideas thus far 👏
 
Finally got the sheet:

Screenshot_20260202_143343_OneDrive.webp
 
Perhaps I'm picky but that seems like a half assed alignment. I would try a performance or dedicated alignment shop.

I take all of our vehicles to a performance shop and they always get both sides equal, even if the initial measurements are "within spec"

Thank you, I think that's where I'm at now with it. Didn't realize it would be annoying but it is after holding pressure on the wheel to keep it straight on a road trip!
 
Information requested:

- Do not notice any additional heat on one side vs the other. I don't have an IR gun though.

- Both sides measure out exactly 31.9" from ground to bottom of wheel arch, which I was surprised by. Thought it would be at least a little different.
 
We never give customers that print out we always use the bar graphs to align it and print the before and after bar graphs for the customers. A few years ago on my Mazda truck I had a stuck brake caliper that was causing a pull but if there is no excessive heat then unlikely that’s the issue. I have done a few that have complained of a pull to one side or the other and it’s almost always the camber is off or out of adjustment by a bit if it’s an alignment concern.

One thing to remember too is every alignment machine is different and you could get ten different numbers from ten different machines. We have ours at the dealership calibrated regularly it actually just got calibrated today. Also the beginning and final results could be off if the car isn’t perfectly straight on the alignment rack I’ve also seen that too. I’m no expert on alignments by any means but just listing some things I’ve dealt with and I do them quite frequently. We had this guy a few months ago spend hours trying to figure out why a vehicle was pulling when all the specs were green then the big boss looked and said well the vehicle is not straight and so he straightened and restarted it and boom an angle was way off and it fixed the problem when it was adjusted.

I’d look into going to an alignment specialist shop to see if they can determine anything if you keep striking out at the dealer. And also there is a secret trick on the machines to go in and alter the specs to make them show in spec when they aren’t. Not saying they did that but if you get ahold of a lazy tech it could very well be the issue especially since they didn’t provide the bar graph print out because when you do that it will say modified specs at the top of the paper.
 
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Information requested:

- Do not notice any additional heat on one side vs the other. I don't have an IR gun though.

- Both sides measure out exactly 31.9" from ground to bottom of wheel arch, which I was surprised by. Thought it would be at least a little different.
thanks for measuring it. Well at least we know they're not sagging. After looking at the alignment specs, I'm drawn to focus on the rear alignment numbers. Look how different they are, plus if you were to look straight down from above on the toe directions, they're going to the right! I know the thrust angle will dictate which way it can pull (negative is to the left), but I'm telling ya.. From my experience I've always seen if the rear toe is not correct the vehicle will pull and you'll have to correct it all the time from the steering wheel.

The only other time I've experienced a pull was when the camber (front) was tilting both front tires too much in one direction. The cross camber for the front of yours is only around 0.3 degrees (subtract both final results). That's nothing for any car.

ok back to what to do.. that rear toe was not even adjusted, look at the before and after! They only gave you a two wheel alignment. I'd go to a good alignment shop (hope you can do research and find a good one) and ask them to get the toe in the middle of the range, telling them 0.07 degrees or 0.04 inches for each wheel. If the toe adjusters are rusted in place, replace them, I've done that before on previous vehicles.

Now about the toe.. here's how I calculated what to tell them at the new shop and what to set it at.

for example, front toe specs.. add up the total toe -0.02 + 0.32= 0.30, divide by two you get 0.075, I'd go on the lower end, round down and have both front toe at 0.07 degrees. did a quick search for 18 CX-9 tire diameters 255/60-18 or 255/50-20 (only way to know the measurement in inches for toe) and they're about 30 inches in diameter for either tire.. 0.07 degrees at 30inch diameter would be 0.036 or 0.04 inches of toe.

The rear toe (it's the same calculation as the front, same specs) should be 0.07 degrees for each wheel or 0.04 inches of toe. Depends on how the wheel alignment rack is set up to measure degrees or inches.

The other thing is when an alignment is done, make sure you have a full tank of gas when they align it. Most don't realize that is a lot of weight and the automaker's specs is when there is a full tank of gas (weight).

also I agree with @AutoMechanic 100%, even the smallest error in prepping the car on the rack for alignment can alter all the rack's computer's calculations after that. but they never aligned the rear toe as I was explaining, that definitely caused the pull, it's probably why you never noticed any difference from before their alignment and after.. didn't change anything!!

EDIT: one more thing, make sure they center the steering wheel! That always bugs me they don't take the time to get it perfectly centered then they can start the alignment
 
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Thank You both for your insight.

Interesting you're talking about the rear, the service advisor told me that the tech only wanted to do minimal adjusting on the rear because there was "too much rust". Now the car did spend its first 4 years in the Midwest, and there is some minor rust here and there. But in my opinion not very bad at all!

I think I will definitely talk to a specialist as you suggested, and specifically talk about that as well. I'm sure even if there is a little bit of rust on some of the bolts, there is a way around it and/or use some penetrating oil etc. I got the feeling even on the second attempt, the dealer did not want to deal with it.
 
Thank You both for your insight.

Interesting you're talking about the rear, the service advisor told me that the tech only wanted to do minimal adjusting on the rear because there was "too much rust". Now the car did spend its first 4 years in the Midwest, and there is some minor rust here and there. But in my opinion not very bad at all!

I think I will definitely talk to a specialist as you suggested, and specifically talk about that as well. I'm sure even if there is a little bit of rust on some of the bolts, there is a way around it and/or use some penetrating oil etc. I got the feeling even on the second attempt, the dealer did not want to deal with it.
hey you're welcome..

ahh.. depends on how much real rust is in there. I've seen some dealer shops scared to put penetrating oil on the ferrule nut from the hard brake line to the flexible brake hose! And that's just to loosen the ferrule nut, not real corrosion just surface patina. Oh ya there's ways around it up to using a torch, getting the toe adjuster mounting bolts hot and unbolt, replacing the parts. in between that is penetrating oil.

But at least now you're getting an idea of what's not adjusted properly and what's most likely causing the pull. (y)
 
ahh.. depends on how much real rust is in there. I've seen some dealer shops scared to put penetrating oil on the ferrule nut from the hard brake line to the flexible brake hose! And that's just to loosen the ferrule nut, not real corrosion just surface patina. Oh ya there's ways around it up to using a torch, getting the toe adjuster mounting bolts hot and unbolt, replacing the parts. in between that is penetrating oil. But at least now you're getting an idea of what's not adjusted properly and what's most likely causing the pull. (y)
All great points, thanks. When I get a chance, I'm going to crawl under to inspect for location/extent of rust again. Either way, I will be upfront with the shop (y)
 
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