2017 Santa Fe Carbon Removal

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Jul 8, 2022
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Hi all! I removed the fuel injectors on my 2017 Santa Fe 3.3 v6. 120k miles. Number 1 and 6 injectors were leaking, diagnosed by the dealer and my nose. I could definitely smell it was running rich. The dealer wanted $2800 to replace all 6 injectors and replace the spark plugs. Too much for my blood, so I'm sending my injectors out to be cleaned and rebuilt.

While the intake is off and the valves exposed, I'd like to clean the carbon buildup off them the best I can. I won't be walnut blasting them. How should I go about cleaning them up?

My thought is, rotate the engine til the valves are closed. Spray something on the carbon to loosen and soften the buildup. Let it soak then agitate. Suck out the slop with a shop vac. What would you recommend for the spray? What would you use to agitate and scrape the carbon?

I'm going to replace the spark plugs with factory iridium's or the new rutheniums. I'm leaning towards the ruthenium for their longevity. Maybe they improve performance a bit, but won't be able to tell too much as the cleaning of the injectors will make more of an improvement to performance and mileage.

Any thoughts about replacing the up stream O2 sensors? Especially bank 1 as it's much easier to change

I will take pics when I get back to working on the car. Thanks for the help!
 
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I would hope there's no carbon to speak of with that few miles. "They say" Berryman B12 will cut it. Don't replace the plugs until you've burned the cylinders clean of whatever you use.

Repeated application of penetrant on the O2's is key, and a wrench or socket that will not round it off. If it starts to bind up, tighten it back a bit and start over.
 
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Cleaning injectors is fine for ones that are still functional, but once they have failed, replacement is often a better option.

You can use carb cleaner and a zip ties (bundle them into a drill) to clean the intake valves.
 

Jeffrey16

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I sent my injectors to The Injector Shop in Washington state. They said they test the injectors for operation and ohm and mH. The injectors are ultasonicly cleaned and rebuilt. The fuel rail and compression seals are replaced. The service costs $160 for all six injectors. I figure its worth a shot and my time.

I'll definitely look into the zip tie trick. Thanks.
 
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Well I have heard that the Car Wizard has tried the zip tie method and found it pretty effective and CHEAP.

Take off intake, rotate engine to the point all valves are closed. Get your favorite long drill bit and attach a collection of zip ties to the shank of this drill bit, then insert into the intake port and let that sucker spin like crazy inside the port. The flailing of the zip ties should break off some of the carbon chunks. Inspect, vacuum, repeat as needed, move onto the next intake port. Zip ties are not likely to damage anything metal inside the port, naturally these ties will wear down and need replacing, but you'll be happy.
 
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I sent my injectors to The Injector Shop in Washington state. They said they test the injectors for operation and ohm and mH. The injectors are ultasonicly cleaned and rebuilt. The fuel rail and compression seals are replaced. The service costs $160 for all six injectors. I figure its worth a shot and my time.

I'll definitely look into the zip tie trick. Thanks.
I would toss injector #1 and #6 and use the service for the other 4. I assume this is GDI? When GDI injectors fail it can be extremely catastrophic. Cylinders can get hydrolocked. Cylinders can burn up from running too lean. It simply isn't worth the risk.
 
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Joined
Apr 11, 2003
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Hmmmm,

Maybe I oughta sell that 2015 Santa Fe Limited with 56k miles on it.
Before it sells me…….
 
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Hmmmm,

Maybe I oughta sell that 2015 Santa Fe Limited with 56k miles on it.
Before it sells me…….
Don't forget the head bolt issue too.

 
Joined
Apr 11, 2003
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Don't forget the head bolt issue too.


Doh!

Thanks for the “uplifting” news, Critic.

Hopefully, all of those cited problems are transistory……..
 

RAR

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Mar 6, 2016
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Minnesota
I have to second the walnut blast. The supplies are easy to gather, and won’t cost a ton.

Spraying Seafoam or Lucas GDI might get you some time, but it will be back. The flailing zip ties? Maybe.. Picks and brushes (not metal, but soft bristles) will work if you spend the time.

I looked into the alternatives to walnut blasting, and nothing can beat it. Not Seafoam like chemicals, or soft brushes.

My BMW from years back had a rough idle and glowing Check Engine light. Dealer did the blasting for $750. It took care of the problem, but was a chunk of cash.

I am doing this procedure on my Mini Cooper S with the GDI engine in a few days. Walnut shells (fine only), wand, hopper blaster, and vacuum cleaner attachment is under $100, and I’ll be doing this regularly with this car to keep it going. It’s the best way. Why waste time with a shortcut? 👍
 

JTK

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Can you post a pic of the carbon build up on the intake valves?

I would be interesting to see how much carbon we're talking about.
 
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I would hope there's no carbon to speak of with that few miles. "They say" Berryman B12 will cut it. Don't replace the plugs until you've burned the cylinders clean of whatever you use.

Repeated application of penetrant on the O2's is key, and a wrench or socket that will not round it off. If it starts to bind up, tighten it back a bit and start over.
120K miles isn't low mileage for IVD in a Direct Injection vehicle.
 
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Explain to me again how over the life of the vehicle direct injectors save enough gas t pay for their eventual replacement along with the hgh pressure fuel pump and filters.



Same category as a CVT and cylinder deactivation.
 
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