2017-2018 Elantra 2.0L Thermostat Issues

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I purchased a 2018 Elantra 2.0L as a commuter car with 23K miles about a month ago. Really great car overall. No current issues or codes thrown. Drives like new. We got a trememdous, historic ice storm this week and obviously unseasonable temperatures. Well, my first experience with the heater was, um...perplexing. I was in a slight hurry and didn't have time to scrape the nearly full inch of solid ice off of the car. I needed to let it thaw so I started it with the heat and blower completely off and in the blend position. The only thing on was the rear defrost. I came back in for about 10-12 minutes to gather some items then returned to find it just reaching normal coolant temperature. I blasted the heat in defrost mode then came back in. I let it idle while I took a shower and got ready (about 20 more minutes). I returned to find a completely thawed car as expected, but what wasn't expected was the temperature gauge being halfway back to the ice cold mark (see picture). Strange. Again, this is after a solid 30 minutes of idle time. Made a mental note and went about my day. Then today I drove it again (with only about a 30 second idle before driving), carefully watching it's behavior. This time I only waited until it hit the halfway mark (the same mark it dropped to yesterday) before cranking the heat. Even while driving 40mph in town with several red lights, it struggled to reach operating temperature even after 20 minutes of driving. The gauge also fluctuated quite a bit along the way (colder, hotter, colder again). By fluctuated, I mean dropping and rising 2-3 whole marks on the gauge. This is beyond excessive by any standard.

To be clear, there were no issues with the temperature of the air blowing out of the vents. Once the car reached a temperature warm enough to provide heat, it blew hot and remained consistent no matter what. The only pattern I could identify was that if I pressed the gas while in park, the gauge would fall moderately, and if idling it would fluctuate slightly.

I chalked it up to a bad thermostat. I did some research and discovered this is a common problem for this car. Many were even recalled. I'm not sure if mine is affected by the recall, and I'll be calling tomorrow to ask a dealer. It's some sort of strange proprietary thermostat that runs $219 even at the parts stores. All the research I did pointed toward a poor design, and there was no sign of a fix.

Does anyone else have this car with similar issues? Has anyone worked on one with these symptoms? Any advice? Thanks.
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I purchased a 2018 Elantra 2.0L as a commuter car with 23K miles about a month ago. Really great car overall. No current issues or codes thrown. Drives like new.

........

I chalked it up to a bad thermostat. I did some research and discovered this is a common problem for this car. Many were even recalled. I'm not sure if mine is affected by the recall, and I'll be calling tomorrow to ask a dealer. It's some sort of strange proprietary thermostat that runs $219 even at the parts stores. All the research I did pointed toward a poor design, and there was no sign of a fix.
Something here is wonky because a thermostat for a 2018 Elantra 2.0 is $14 at Rockauto.

Where does the $219 come from?
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Its not a thermostat issue..

This is a known issues with the 2017-2018.. Their is a TSB with some software updates to the ECM the BCM... It will fix your issue if you get the update... I will try to find the TSB and post it for you..

P.S.. The thermostat posted above is not the correct for the 2.0L atkinson engine.. it uses a ECT...
 

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A used Hyundai carries a 60,000 Powertrain warranty. I would take it to the dealership. There may be recalls and TSBs that need to be addressed.
 
To be clear, there were no issues with the temperature of the air blowing out of the vents. Once the car reached a temperature warm enough to provide heat, it blew hot and remained consistent no matter what...It's some sort of strange proprietary thermostat that runs $219 even at the parts stores.
The Thermostat on that car is not a normal thermostat. Also it is set to open @212F. Thing should have plenty of heat from the heater!
Yep.

I will admit the 212 degree setting did surprise me. Seems a bit warm.
 
The '19 Accents' have the same issue . Go to carcomplaints.com for owner issues , T.S.B.s' and Recalls .
 
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No offense, but your faith in RockAuto's accuracy is what's wonky. Here is where $219 comes from: Link

I think what's wonky is the misunderstanding of the difference between a thermostat and a thermostat housing...not Rockauto's accuracy. The $14 part is what is contained within the $219 part.
 
I think what's wonky is the misunderstanding of the difference between a thermostat and a thermostat housing...not Rockauto's accuracy. The $14 part is what is contained within the $219 part.
Agreed. OP clearly stated $219 thermostat and omitted the fact that he was referring to the integrated thermostat/housing combination.

A Motorad version runs $150 on RA for the application. But this is a case where I'd opt for the OEM and pay the premium to solve the issue the first time.
 
this was crazy common on the elantra. just go to the dealer and tell them heater isn't working and odds are they will know exactly what it is.
 
Its not a thermostat issue..

This is a known issues with the 2017-2018.. Their is a TSB with some software updates to the ECM the BCM... It will fix your issue if you get the update... I will try to find the TSB and post it for you..

P.S.. The thermostat posted above is not the correct for the 2.0L atkinson engine.. it uses a ECT...
This is the solution.
 
I think what's wonky is the misunderstanding of the difference between a thermostat and a thermostat housing...not Rockauto's accuracy. The $14 part is what is contained within the $219 part.
Agreed. OP clearly stated $219 thermostat and omitted the fact that he was referring to the integrated thermostat/housing combination.

A Motorad version runs $150 on RA for the application. But this is a case where I'd opt for the OEM and pay the premium to solve the issue the first time.
If either of you can point me to where/how you can buy/install the thermostat by itself for this application, I'm all ears and can admit when I'm wrong. Until then, I stand behind my statement that it costs $219 (without shopping at an online retailer) to replace the 'part' and RockAuto is inaccurate because neither of those thermostats are designed to open at 212 degrees like the OEM one. Not trying to sound combative, just a bit lost and going by what I see.

I was not able to call a dealer today, as I was sidetracked by another task. I'll try again tomorrow.
 
I think your best bet on this one is going to the dealership or going to a shop that can perform the necessary TSB. As pointed out, Hyundai has a TSB on programming the computer to address the funky heat output these cars were plagued with.
 
I think your best bet on this one is going to the dealership or going to a shop that can perform the necessary TSB. As pointed out, Hyundai has a TSB on programming the computer to address the funky heat output these cars were plagued with.
Of course. I definitely am taking advantage of the warranty and letting them do everything they can before I take matters into my own hands. Just doing a little research for knowledge and for when the warranty is expired. As I said, I'll deal with them tomorrow. I just had someone throw a major wrench in my system today and it prevented me from calling today.
 
If either of you can point me to where/how you can buy/install the thermostat by itself for this application, I'm all ears and can admit when I'm wrong. Until then, I stand behind my statement that it costs $219 (without shopping at an online retailer) to replace the 'part' and RockAuto is inaccurate because neither of those thermostats are designed to open at 212 degrees like the OEM one. Not trying to sound combative, just a bit lost and going by what I see.

I was not able to call a dealer today, as I was sidetracked by another task. I'll try again tomorrow.
So I'm the guy that posted the picture from the RA website.
On both Gates and Stant websites, they list the thermostats in that picture as acceptable for your vehicle.
If it's still incorrect, then RA, Gates, and Stant are all wrong, which I guess is possible but would be surprising.

I'll stand by my prior follow up comment that you'd be best off going with OEM here.

Good luck!!!
 
If the OEM thermostat is 212 degrees, and the listed ones are 190 and 192, I'm not sure how that is an exact replacement. I suppose using 85 octane in a ZR1 Corvette is "acceptable" also, but it doesn't mean there won't be a sacrifice of some sort (performance, knock).

I'll agree OEM would be best.

I reached out to two local dealers and both confirmed there is no recall for my vehicle regarding coolant temperature or thermostat issues. There is an "ECM update" for misfiring/knock though, which is interesting considering I don't have a Theta II. I was advised to wait for a colder day to more easily duplicate the issue. If they can't definitively prove an issue, they can't be reimbursed by Hyundai for warranty parts and labor. So to allow things to go smoother, "help us help you" and wait for a cold day. I'll report back once I have an update. Thanks everyone for your input (yes, even Imp4. I wasn't trying to sound condescending or combative, and I appreciate your input).
 
I couldn't get past the part that said "started car with heat/blower off" and then getting back in 10-12 minutes later and cranking the defrost. Sounds like an excellent way to crack a windshield.
 
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