2015 Land Rover Defender 2.2 with DPF

Joined
Nov 22, 2021
Messages
11
Location
Zürich / Oslo
Good day everyone, first post so bear with me.

I bought my Defender new in 2015. It currently has 62,000 miles on it. At 41k miles it was remapped to 170hp and 450NM, up from 122/360. The EGR is mapped closed. It has a large intercooler so that at 1.55 bar of boost my intake air temp post intercooler is just a few degrees above ambient.
The specified oil, Ford WSS-M2C934-B aka ACEA C1 I have always used (can only assume the dealer did the same).
Seems reasonable with very low SAPS less that 0.5%. It's quite thin, often reports say it shears to a 20W fairly quickly?
The recommended 12 month / 20'000 km OIC has always seemed too long to me considering its a hard worked 2.2L engine pushing a 2 ton brick. Ive my servicing more frequent - average oil change at 7,851 miles.

Screenshot 2021-11-22 at 19.20.42.jpg


I have learned from the ACEA website that they are dropping the C1 classification and since my engine isn't exactly new at nearly 7 years and 62k, im oil shopping!

I have been using Shell Helix Ultra AF-L 5w-30. But shell is discontinuing this as per the ACEA change and is now recommending AR-L which is a C4. Same very low SAPS level, but a bit thicker. Seems like a win win for a 62k mile engine, or no?

My real pickle is the C1/C4 SAPS level. No OEM ever used C1 except Ford in the Ford, JLR & Mazda powered vehicles. And now C4 is only Renault. Why? Are their DPFs more precious?

Seems like the LL oil is a good one. C3, sure, but is 0.8% really worse? Or is the C4 the best of both worlds?

Cheers,
Angus
 
Personaly I would move to an ACEA C3 oil. Try to find an oil with manafacturer approvals such as BMW LL04 or VW 504/507. These oils are going to be cheaper and easier to find in my experience.

Don't worry about going thicker. These PUMA engines in their industrial forms are specified with for 15w40 HDEO's. Again, you could look at using a HDEO but try keep the SAPS below 1%. How cold does it get where you live? I wouldn't want to use a 15w* much below -10°c.

I must admit I've not heard of that specification before and always assumed all PUMA engines were spec'd WSS-M2C913C or D.
 
always assumed all PUMA engines were spec'd WSS-M2C913C or D.
The 2.4 pumas did not have a DPF and used this spec. The 2.2 pumas are euro5 with dpf and the spec changed

ACEA C3 oil. Try to find an oil with manafacturer approvals such as BMW LL04 or VW 504/507. These oils are going to be cheaper and easier to find in my experience.
This is a thing sor sure. While I havent ever needed to buy top up oil, I also have never seen a C1 in a retail store - I have to order it online, pay shipping, and wait...

How cold does it get where you live?
So far the truck has lived in a heated garage and has seen primarily summer use. But I have it in Norway with me now and cold temperatures are coming.

I see that Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30 has 0.6% sulfatash, Porsche C30, 504/507, C2, C3...and some others (amazing to have it all..)
Might be a good choice?

 
Don't spend too much time worrying about the SAPS level. If the engine isn't consuming oil, it's never going to get to the DPF to become an issue anyway.

Personally, I'd look for the cheapest major brand synthetic oil that meets ACEA C3 or E9 with a suitable winter rating for your climate.

All of the Mobil1 ESP oils are great, and as they contain a small amount of ester are known for their cleaning properties.
 
Castrol Edge Titanium 0w-30 C3, BMW LL-04 is on sale this week locally.
Same price: Edge Titan. 5w-30 LL-III which is Porsche C30 and vw504
20 bucks cheaper is Magnatec 5w-30 C2
 
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Seven litres of Edge 0w30 C3 and Bosch oil filter went in today. Seems to be a nice oil -
 

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